james.runkle@drummondst.com, Author at NYSCC

NYSCC Continues Its Outreach on Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry

July 1, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Largest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists Participates in the Middle-Atlantic Regional Meeting (MARM) of the American Chemical Society (ACS)

(New York, NY, July 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) recently chaired a technical session on “Cosmetic Chemistry,” during the 51st Middle-Atlantic Regional Meeting (MARM) of ACS hosted by its New York Chapter, St. John’s University and The Graduate Center of the City University of New York (CUNY). The meeting, June 9-10, 2023 was themed “Chemistry Refocused,” and included technical and poster sessions on varied subjects within chemistry, employment programming, workshops as well as a graduate study fair, awards ceremony and more.

The Cosmetic Chemistry technical session on June 9^th was chaired by Giorgio Dell’Acqua (NYSCC) and attracted more than 75 participants between students and faculty members. It featured members of the NYSCC Executive Board and Scientific Committee that presented top cosmetic chemistry topics followed by a panel discussion on career paths in the industry.

Speakers and topics included:

-Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, NYSCC Advisor, and Chief Scientific Officer at Nutrafol. He spoke about “Sourcing and Developing Cosmetic Ingredients Using a Sustainable Approach.”

-Dr. Amber Evans, Chair-Elect NYSCC, and Senior Manager of Product Development at Moroccanoil spoke on “Hair Care & the Chemistry Within.”

-Stacey House, NYSCC Chair, and Senior VP of R&D Consumer Beauty, Color & Skin, Coty and LATAM discussed “Decoding Ingredient Labels.”

-Dr. Hani Fares, Senior Director of Skincare and Oral Care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Chair of the NYSCC Scientific Committee, presented “Formulating Sunscreens.”

-Dr. Sue Feng, Chief Scientific Officer, E.T. Browne’s Global Research & Innovation, and NYSCC Scientific Committee Member, covered, “How Textile Technology Innovations Transfer into Color Cosmetic Formulations.”

The technical session concluded with a panel Q&A on cosmetic chemistry career paths led by Dell’Acqua. In addition, during MARM, NYSCC members coached students on their resumes during one-on-one review sessions, participated in a career panel with technical professionals from other industries, and engaged with students over their research posters.

“This was an exciting and fruitful outreach program for NYSCC this year. The Chapter will continue to foster relationships with other professional organizations and academia to promote cosmetic science as a strong career path,” said Stacey House, NYSCC Chair.

NYSCC also gives out numerous scholarships and grants to help students in their academic journey. To find out more visit: https://nyscc.org/scholarships-and-grants/, and the deadline is July 15^th. For more information about NYSCC and its annual Suppliers’ Day event, including its Future Chemists Workshop. visit, www.nyscc.org

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists, www.nyscc.org, strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Records Its Biggest Ingredients & Formulation Event

June 13, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

10,362 Attendees, 546 Global Exhibitors from 73 Countries Highlighted Beauty & Personal Care Event that Reimagined Renewal & Wellness

(New York, NY, May 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) 44th Annual Suppliers’ Day broke attendance records, May 2-3, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. Attracting 10,362 registrants in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents, and representing 73 countries, Suppliers’ Day 2023 enjoyed its best professional attendance to date.

“Attendees and exhibitors were energized by the look, feel and size of the show and being back together to explore, discover and discuss the science behind ingredients and formulations” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC. “Every inch of the show embraced our theme of Reimagining Renewal & Wellness and helped spark attendees product development plans.”

In addition to an exhibit floor that featured 546 exhibiting companies including 174 new exhibitors, Suppliers’ Day also boasted 100+ hours of education as well as its largest participation in conference delegates with almost 500 registrants. Well attended programs covered microbiome, hair care and wellness, bio-technologies, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors, hot topics, along with “Truth in Beauty: Sci-Comm Influencers Panel.” Suppliers’ Day core programs, “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and “Indie 360”, provided fresh content and actionable insight that continues to resonate with attendees.

The Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation & Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal and moderated by Lan Vu, Founder/CEO of BeautyStreams, discussed how L’Oréal achieves their green sciences and sustainability goals to a standing room only crowd.

The Future Chemists Workshop broke records as well with more than 100 students from 22 colleges and universities across the county participating in a mini-challenge for the best upcycled leave-in hair and scalp spray. The NYSCC Mentorship Mixer and Career Development Program connected members with mentees looking to enhance their professional development and career in cosmetic chemistry.

The NYSCC Awards Night event took place on Tuesday, May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and announced the eight finalists of the 2023 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards for ingredients and Formulation: Activen for XEP-716 MiniProtein; BASF for ProBiolift; Cambrium for NovaColl; Croda Inc. for Mel[o]stem, Givaudan Active Beauty for Gravityl, Givaudan Active Beauty for PrimalHyal Hydra[+], P2 Science, Inc. for CitroSperse and Vantage Specialty Ingredients Inc. for Concentrated Conditioner Drops. The winner will be announced at the CEW Beauty Creators Awards Luncheon on November 7, 2023.

The INDIE 360 Pavilion featured 14 curated brands that are new to market and have novel ingredients, formulations, and unique concepts. The People’s Choice Award went to INA Labs, for their clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman’s most intimate skin, from effective plant-based hygiene routines to OB/GYN-developed solutions for common concerns.

Plans are already underway for next year’s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day taking place May 1-2, 2024, with 80% of the exhibitors already resigned over 90% of available exhibit space. For more information about NYSCC visit www.nyscc.org. For 2024 Suppliers’ Day exhibitor and sponsorship information email: suppliersday@nyscc.org.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Biodegradability considerations for cosmetic ingredients

April 28, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

The topic of “biodegradability” has become extremely important over recent years, but still may not be fully understood. The following is a basic overview for formulators and anyone wishing to know more about this critical issue. (Note that regulations, definitions, and practical guidelines on biodegradability are continually changing, and the comments in this blog are intended to offer general insights, not legal definitions or advice.)

Simply put, biodegradation is the breakdown of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi[1], and once broken down, the byproducts are carbon dioxide and water vapor. “Bio” is the key prefix here; the difference between “degradable” and “biodegradable” is that while “degradable” products can be broken down by chemical or biological processes, “biodegradable” materials can only be broken down by biological processes.

The concern for biodegradable products began with the issue of microplastics, first detected in the 1970s in the ocean as plastic residue, but not termed “microplastics” until the mid-2000s. (A good and comprehensive article on this by Napper and Thompson was published online in 2020[2].) Many multinational companies have stopped using microplastics (microbeads) in their formulations and other brands are following, but let’s clearly define what are, and are NOT, microplastics! To qualify as a microplastic, four criteria must be met:

It must be a polymer
It must be solid (at RT)
It must be in particulate form
It must be under 5mm in size

All four criteria must be met – if even a single one of these four is not present, the substance is NOT considered a microplastic. And to complicate matters further, there are many exclusions even if these four criteria are met, including the following:

The material is natural
The material is degradable
Its solubility is > 2 g/liter
No carbon atoms in its chemical structure
Its release to the environment is prevented when used
Its physical properties are permanently modified during end use
It is permanently incorporated into a solid matrix during end use
And likely more…

Just because your products may be “natural” does not mean they are “biodegradable” – measurement is key! As mentioned by Dr. Martin Perry, Advanced Development Safety Laboratories, at SCS Formulate in 2021: “Although natural content is good to know, and there is a perception that natural ingredients are more biodegradable than synthetic ones, knowing the biodegradability is important. The natural content of your product or your organic content is not going to be sufficient for you to substantiate anything on biodegradability.”[3]

To be precise, most companies adhere to the standard of “readily biodegradable”, defined as the ability of a product to biodegrade quickly and completely (≥ 60% by OECD 301A-F/ASTM D7373 testing) within 28 days. You might also hear the term “inherently biodegradable,” defined as between 20% and 60% biodegradability as measured by OECD 301A-F testing, but “readily biodegradable” is stricter and preferable.

From the OECD iLibrary: “The OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals is a collection of about 150 of the most relevant internationally agreed testing methods used by government, industry and independent laboratories to identify and characterize potential hazards of chemicals. They are a set of tools for professionals, used primarily in regulatory safety testing and subsequent chemical and chemical product notification, chemical registration and in chemical evaluation. They can also be used for the selection and ranking of candidate chemicals during the development of new chemicals and products and in toxicology research. This group of tests covers environmental fate and behaviour. In 2017, the section 3 “Degradation and Accumulation” was renamed to “Environmental fate and behaviour” to take into account Test Guidelines measuring endpoints such as dispersion, aggregation.”[4]

As a final note, microplastics and biodegradability concerns are part of a larger issue of minimizing environmental pollution. Some may equate this trend with the apparent discovery of reef damage caused by certain organic sun filters, specifically octinoxate and oxybenzone. There are bans in place on octinoxate and oxybenzone in many countries, including the US (Hawaii, Florida, US Virgin Islands), Aruba, Bonaire (off the coast of Venezuela), Palau and parts of Mexico. However, this is not a biodegradability issue as much as it is a toxicity issue, and the science is still unclear as to the actual effect of residual organic sunscreens on coral reefs.

[1] Focht DD. “Biodegradation”. AccessScience. doi:10.1036/1097-8542.422025.

[2] Napper & Thompson, “Plastic Debris in the Marine Environment: History and Future Challenges”. Global Challenges. doi: 10.1002/gch2.201900081.

[3] https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2021/11/18/Biodegradable-beauty-focus-needed-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert#

[4] https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/test-no-301-ready-biodegradability_9789264070349-en

Ben Blinder is the Executive Director, Business Operations at Gattefossé USA, with P/L responsibility for the personal care and pharmaceutical business units in the US and Mexico. He is also a founding member of the Advisory Committee on Diversity & Inclusion for Gattefossé in North America. Ben holds a BS in chemical engineering from Lehigh University.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day–Education & Innovation at Forefront of Leading Ingredients & Formulation Event

April 27, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day–Education & Innovation at Forefront of Leading Ingredients & Formulation Event

Reimagining Renewal & Wellness at Beauty & Personal Care Trade Show and Conference, May 2-3, at the Javits Center in New York City

(New York, New York, April 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) announces its educational program for Suppliers’ Day, taking place May 2-3, at the Jacob Javits Convention Center in New York City. As North America’s most important ingredients and formulation event, Suppliers’ Day will provide the latest trends, scientific findings, global ingredients, raw materials and solutions that will invigorate and accelerate beauty and personal care product developments.

Curated by the NYSCC Scientific Committee, along with support from media and industry association partners, Suppliers’ Day will offer close to 100 hours of educational programming on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing beauty and personal care products including:

-Fireside Chat on green sciences, sustainability and more with a leading global beauty manufacturer

-Technical courses spearheaded by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee that take deep dives into: Hair & Scalp Renewal & Wellness and Biotechnology in Beauty & Personal Care

-Digital Age of Beauty focusing on key strategies, digital tools and innovative technologies that influence product development, and speed to market including AI and blockchain.

-Microbiome: Inside Out Beauty, with expert perspectives and unique insight on microbiome health from head to toe including oral and vaginal innovations.

– PCPC along with the EU’s IKW presenting: Reimagining, Renewal, & Wellness: Modernizing Cosmetics Regulations.

–INDIE 360 covering every angle of launching and sustaining a brand and featuring a panel of founders sharing their stories including the challenges, opportunities and journeys to success.

-Two lunch and learns sponsored by industry partners covering Natural Ingredients, More Tech and Science Needed: A Discussion with the Experts and “Catching China’s Beauty Trends.”

-Fragrance: The Invisible Art is also returning to Suppliers’ Day and brings together expert perspectives from the essential players in creating the “invisible art”.

-Popular program tracks, opened to all attendees, will focus on green issues and reducing waste with Discover Sustainability, global sourcing and marketing trends from World of Chemistry; IBA’s Regulatory & Compliance Update; Innovations from the Exhibit Floor; and “Hot Topics” offering lightning sessions on oral care, DE&I, color, influencers, legal watch outs, and sustainable packaging.

-For the first time there will be a Influencer Chemist Panel: TRUTH IN BEAUTY

featuring The Eco Well, Chemist Confessions, NYSCC’s Influencer, Javon Ford and more.

-Pre-event SCC CEP Courses on Formulating Natural Oils and Butters for the Cosmetics Industry: Technical Background and Best Practices and Introduction to Sensory Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions.

“The theme, Reimagining Renewal & Wellness, will be evident throughout Suppliers’ Day by focusing on all elements that foster renewal and will shine a light on sustainable beauty,” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC. “The event will bridge how wellness, and eco-consciousness touches all areas of the industry and impacts new product development and business success.”

Continuing its mission to educate and involve the workforce of the future and students, Suppliers’ Day will also host the popular Future Chemists Workshop and hold a Mentor Lunch Mixer and Career Development Session.

The finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients & Formulation will be revealed at the NYSCC Industry Awards Night celebration on May 2^nd at Second Floor NYC.

The expanded show floor will feature more than 500 global exhibitors showcasing novel ingredients, formulas, processing, advanced scientific testing equipment and more. Dynamic areas on the show floor will provide an enhanced educational and wellness experience including the new Brazilian and Peru Pavilions, Re-Charge Station, Main Stage, Presentation Theater, Influencers Lounge, Future Chemists Workshop, University Row, Technical Poster Presentations Showcase, and an Indie Pavilion with 16+ juried brands.

Suppliers’ Day is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents. To register to attend and for more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City, is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org, Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal

April 24, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal

Leading Beauty and Personal Care Ingredients and Formulation Event Takes Place

May 2-3 at the Javits Center in New York

(New York, NY, April 2023)—NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) is pleased to announce that Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal, will participate in a one-on-one fireside chat on Wednesday, May 3rd at 9:00 am during Suppliers’ Day at the Javits Center in New York. This fireside chat will be moderated by Lan Vu, Founder & CEO of BEAUTYSTREAMS, focusing on L’Oréal’s open innovation strategy to achieve its green sciences and sustainability goals.

“We are thrilled to present this fireside chat as part of Suppliers’ Day,” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC. “Mohamed’s impressive career in cosmetic science and now his role in spearheading L’Oréal’s open innovation activities in North America will be inspiring and engaging for Suppliers’ Day attendees.”

Kanji began his career at Revlon USA as a Chemist before joining L’Oréal USA in 1993 as a Senior Chemist in the Research and Development department. At L’Oréal, he developed mascara and liners for the Maybelline brand and gradually advanced through the ranks.

In 2008, Kanji became the Vice President of R&D Makeup Laboratories for Maybelline, where he led global development efforts, and along with his team launched several successful products, including the Dream Matte Mousse Foundation, Color Sensational Lip Color, ESSIE nail color, and the Colossal Mascara. He also was instrumental in creating the R&I center in India.

In 2013, he was promoted to Senior Vice President, Research & Innovation for L’Oréal USA, where he managed the pre-development and development labs, Evaluation department, Micro Analytical Labs, and all the NJ-based R&I center-related activities across the USA, Canada, and Hispanic America.

Kanji’s current role is Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, where he is responsible for Open Innovation Activities & critical areas, including Scouting, Transformation, and Strategic Alliances. For Operational Excellence, he manages functions such as Analytical, Quality, IT, Facilities, and EHS, and oversees the development of L’Oréal’s new Research & Innovation hub for North America.

Suppliers’ Day, May 2-3, is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents. Additional educational programs offered this year will cover microbiome, hair care and wellness, bio-technologies, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors, hot topics, along with “Truth in Beauty: Sci-Comm Influencers Panel,” “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and “Indie 360”. Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship Mixer and a Career Development Day will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award.

For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, the leading North American event for beauty and personal care product development and to attend, visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org. Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

Editor’s Note: To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org

INDIE 360 Back at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with Larger Footprint and New Brand Innovations

April 15, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Media Contact: Annie Scully, press@nyscc.org, 201-310-9252

INDIE 360° Back at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with Larger Footprint and New Brand Innovations

Beauty & Personal Care Independents and Creators to Participate at Leading Ingredients Event

(New York, New York, April 2023)—The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, held May 2 & 3 at the Javits Convention Center in New York, is the most important ingredients and raw materials exhibition in North America and is increasing its focus on consumer facing brands and activities like the INDIE360 Pavilion and Conference and the Influencer Lounge. The INDIE 360° Pavilion is dedicated to highlighting new to market indie beauty brands that have novel ingredients, formulations, and unique concepts.

This year the pavilion features 14 beauty companies that showcase innovation across all categories including skin and body care, hair, intimate wellness, and oral care. Innovations span across use of bioengineered ingredients and waterless formulas with an environmentally conscious approach, intimate care innovation, sustainable oral care, Korean herbal medicinal inspired remedies and genderless beauty. INDIE 360° Pavilion is hosted and curated in partnership with ACCESS BEAUTY INSIDERS led by exhibition and marketing industry veteran Daniela Ciocan.

New to Suppliers’ Day will be the INFLUENCER LOUNGE featuring leading voices in the social media space who are recognized as experts on the science of beauty. Attendees can meet with influencers including Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu of @chemistconfessions, Lisa Guerrera (@lisagrrera) and Ana Allen (@approvedbyana.ca) on both days of the show at designated hours. In addition, an Influencer Chemist Panel: Truth in Beauty, hosted by IBA will take place in the Main Stage on May 2^nd. This panel will be moderated by Jen Novakovich, (@theecowell) and include Javon Ford (@javonford16) and the Influencers from the lounge.

The INDIE 360° Pavilion participants include:

ALEXANDRA ORGANIC: a company founded in Greece and inspired by Greek mythology with its heritage of healing plants and full range of hair care and makeup products. www.alexandraorganics.com

ANELEY Cosmetics: an all-natural and organic makeup brand, made in the USA. Contains natural, breathable ingredients that are anti-inflammatory. www.aneleycosmetics.com

ELIMS: is building the future of sustainable oral care. Crafted by dentists and biomedical engineers, its mission is to advance human health while reducing waste for the planet. www.elims.co

INA LABS: founders, Susan Goldsberry (world-renowned cosmetic chemist) and Dr. Beri Ridgeway (leading OB/GYN), make clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman’s most intimate skin. www.inalabs.com

MADAME LEMY: an all-natural, luxurious body care brand. Its unique powder formula can be used as deodorant, body powder, dry shampoo and more. https://madamelemy.com

MANIFEST BEAUTY: is a clean, vegan, and cruelty-free beauty brand that empowers women to unleash their best selves through lip plumpers that amplify self-love and high vibrations. www.manifest-beauty.com

NICOLE RAVACHI: offers genderless beauty for all skin types in LATAM. Its mission is to simplify skincare and make beauty more accessible. www.nicoleravachibrand.com

NULASTIN: female founded, is redefining what it means to be a beauty brand by focusing on performance-driven, scientifically backed, ethically derived elastin replenishment for lashes, brows, hair & skin. www.nulastin.com

PALMLESS: its nourishing oil is powered by Palmless™ Torula oil, a luxe new bio-designed oil made from yeast, not from trees and it contains unique carotenoids and sterols found only in the fungal kingdom. www.gopalmless.com

RAAKA’S WORLD: is an innovative beauty brand founded by Dr. Shobana Vankipuram, a first-generation woman physician whose mission is to empower women through easy, authentic, transformative self-care experiences. www.raakasworld.com

REPÚBLICA SKIN: Sugar Body Polish waterless formula is the ultimate skin indulgence with a rich blend of naturally derived oils and butters paired with finely milled, organic sugar creating a sensorial gentle exfoliation. www.republicaskin.com

ROOTS PROFESSIONAL/CLUB ROOTS: Roots Professional brings the most complete cosmeceutical science for superior hair growth to the salon market and Club Roots carries this tradition for both men and women into mass retail and more. www.clubroots.com

SIX GLDN: is transformative skincare for every skin type. Crafted with powerful botanicals and Korean herbal medicine it’s formulated for maximum results in five steps. www.sixgldn.com

TRUTH TREATMENTS: are topical nutritional formulas designed to heal skin and formulated by Benjamin Knight Fuchs, R.Ph., a dermatology pharmacist. www.truthtreatments.com

The comprehensive INDIE 360° experience at Suppliers’ Day also includes a dedicated conference track, moderated and chaired by Luciana Coutinho, luluble, that explores every angle of bringing an independent brand to market. Sessions will cover trends, financing, starting a beauty brand, preparing for MoCRA, and “Building the Future of Beauty,” with the female founders of C16 Biosciences, Ina Labs, Madame Lemy, and Nicole Ravachi Cosmetics. A highlight of INDIE 360° will be the “People’s Choice Award,” where Suppliers’ Day attendees can vote for their favorite INDIE pavilion brand participant. This winner will be announced at a champagne toast at 3:00 p.m. on Wednesday, May 3^rd.

Members of the press can join this year’s INDIE 360° VIP Media Tour to meet founders from all participating companies on Wednesday May 2^nd from 10:30am; RSVP required as only a limited number of spots are available.

Suppliers’ Day, May 2-3, is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents. Additional educational programs offered this year will cover microbiome, hair care and wellness, biotechnology, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors and hot topics. “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and a L’Oreal Fireside Chat are also offered. The Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship Mixer and a Career Development Day will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award.

For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and to register to attend, visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org. Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

Editor’s Note: To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day and RSVP for the I INDIE 360° Media Tour contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org

Sunscreen formulations – emphasis on inorganic sunscreens

March 20, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Ever since the FDA published their proposed monograph ruling in February 2019 recognizing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as the only Category I (Safe and Effective) sunscreens, a cascade of reformulations of most sunscreens products on the US market took place. Inorganic sunscreen formulations are now center-stage and are slowly replacing organic sunscreen formulations. In fact, the trend started in 2018 when the state of Hawaii proposed a ban on Octinoxate and Oxybenzone stating that these two sunscreens have a negative effect on coral reefs. Now that the ban is in effect, another bill is proposing to ban sunscreens containing Octocrylene and Avobenzone for the same reasons. It is true that many regulatory bodies including the FDA did not support the Hawaiian ban, and the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) is addressing the proposed monograph rulings. All these actions might lead to uncertain outcomes. In fact, in a few years the US consumers might be limited to the use of products containing inorganic sunscreens only (with the exception of Ensulizole and Ecamsule). There is some hope that certain Time and Extent (T&E) molecules are being reviewed by the FDA and may be approved for launch. Bemotrizinol is a front-runner and its use in formulation is quite good as it protects both in the UVB and UVA areas.

Selecting the right inorganic sunscreen

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide not only refract light but also absorb it. The refractive index of titanium dioxide is 2.8 whereas that of zinc oxide is only 2.0. This makes titanium dioxide much more effective at scattering light in a formulation. From and absorption point of view, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have conductance bands around 3.4 and 3.1 eV, respectively. This makes zinc oxide a bit more efficient in protecting against UVA rays and titanium dioxide more efficient at shielding UVB rays. As particle size decreases you get much more pronounced blue shift due to a change in the band-gap width. For example, a 0.15 eV blue shift has been reported for 4.7 nm titanium dioxide compared to bulk.

Keep in mind, when particles become smaller than their optimal light scattering size (typically half their wavelength) they become much more transparent. For example, zinc oxide becomes transparent at below 200 nm whereas titanium dioxide becomes transparent at sizes around 10-20 nm. This makes formulating with zinc oxide much easier to achieve transparent formulations but harder to reach high SPF due to its performance in the UVB region.

Sometimes the so-called “boosters” can help many formulators resort to using salicylates as UVB boosters in their formulations. Butyl octyl salicylate is not an approved sunscreen in the US but many formulators use it to boost their inorganic sunscreen SPF while claiming no organic sunscreens added.

Dispersion versus powder

The choice to use inorganic sunscreens as powder or dispersions in formulations is a very polarizing decision and many formulators prefer to use one type over the other. In general, dispersions claim to have a smaller primary particle size which results in better dispersion of the pigment into the emulsion and leads to higher SPF and less whitening on the skin. However, dispersions come at about 50% w/w solvent/pigment which limits the flexibility the formulator to tweak the formulation. In addition, when working with w/o or w/Si formulations, it is harder to control the viscosity of such emulsions when using dispersions. In these types of emulsions, the viscosity is built by the internal phase (water). Using dispersions ultimately increases the amount of external phase and reduces the amount of water used which will make such emulsions less viscous and less stable.

The use of powders, on the on the other hand, gives the formulator a lot of flexibility and reduces the cost of the formulation. Although, when using powders, it is important to have manufacturing capability to grind the pigments at the factory scale to reduce agglomeration and produce formulations with good aesthetics.

Selecting emulsion type

Most inorganic sunscreen formulations on the market are w/o or w/Si emulsions. These types of emulsions are much easier to preserve, as you only preserve the internal phase, and their pH does not fluctuate since they are anhydrous. These types of emulsions inherently have very good water resistance as well. Some of the drawbacks of w/o emulsions are their greasy feel mainly imparted by the surfactants and co-surfactants used. They tend to be more whitening on the skin and harder to spread. W/Si emulsion have a superior end-feel, but they are not particularly biodegradable or earth-friendly by today’s standards. They share the same characteristics as w/o emulsions when it comes to preservation, pH and water resistance. In general w/Si emulsions are harder to stabilize and require the use of more than one surfactant to obtain stable emulsions.

It is very rare to see o/w emulsion formulations on the market, since they are harder to preserve and stabilize. The presence of zinc oxide ultimately shifts pH towards 7.5 which renders most preservatives less effective. In addition, at that pH very few polymers work well at stabilizing such emulsions especially naturally derived polymers. On the other hand, these emulsions typically have a nicer feel on the skin and could be cost effective.

Adding a film former or SPF booster

Selecting a film-former or SPF booster for the emulsion is a critical step and one that should not be avoided. The selection of the appropriate polymer depends mostly on the experience of the formulator and the in vivo results previously obtained with such polymer. Many polymers are marketed to the formulators and some of them could work in one formulation or another. However, it is crucial that the film former works across many formulations and especially in vivo since such tests are quite costly and hard to schedule. As scientists, we should always test the formulations in vitro for water resistance and SPF to ensure that the addition of the polymer will give the desired results. This will enable the formulator to refine the level of polymer in the emulsion as well.

In conclusion, I hope I shed some light on formulating inorganic sunscreen emulsions and I leave it up to the creativity of formulators to create excellent formulations with great aesthetics and high SPF.

Biography

Dr. Fares started his career in personal care studying the effect of solvents on sunscreen chemicals. His interest in skin drug delivery especially from polymeric matrices grew during his graduate work at Rutgers, where he received his Ph. D.

Dr. Fares worked at Block Drug and GlaxoSmithKline where he held positions in research and development in the areas of skincare and oral care. After that, he joined L’Oréal where he held several positions of increasing responsibility leading to AVP of skincare. He is currently the Senior Director of skincare and oral care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. Dr. Fares is the author of many publications, and patents and made many presentations in national and international meetings in the areas of suncare, skincare, and oral care. Dr Fares chairs the NYSCC scientific committee and has won multiple awards in the areas of sun care and polymer chemistry.

Supplements in the beauty industry – not just vitamins and minerals

February 13, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

The recent introduction of holistic wellness as a major component of “I feel better and I look better” is not new to the beauty and cosmetic market. However, the explosion of nutritional formulations in the space of beauty from within is today associated with more robust and convincing scientific evidence than in the past. Supplement formulations appear more complex and not limited to collagen, vitamins and minerals to cite some of the most popular ingredients. The introduction of phytochemicals, sometime in the form of standardized plant extracts, along with vitamin and minerals, is providing an increased targeting and holistic approach to inner mechanisms associated with stress, diet, metabolism, aging, etc. that eventually influence our external look. This is not surprising as our cosmetic targets such as skin, hair, nail are part of our body and therefore react to our body unbalance. The connection between our gut and our skin, when a diverse gut environment is associated with skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, etc.¹ and the influence of hormonal and stress-induced changes that can trigger hair conditions such as androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium.² are some examples.

Modern formulations would use a wide range of ingredients that, when ingested, specifically target biological mechanisms associated with our health and wellness as well as our look (and I underline the specificity). It is possible then to create formulation that when tested deliver real efficacy and stand up to the claims.

Natural ingredients are taking center stage in these formulations, also inspired by the use of naturals in traditional medicine, with the possibility to merge knowledge from the western and eastern world.

When having a closer look at the applications and studies of supplements targeting wellness and beauty, recent reviews have highlighted their use as adjuvants and/or treatment for different dermatology or cosmetic conditions such as hair loss, acne, skin aging^3-5. Since supplements are not FDA regulated, large, peer-reviewed clinical studies are necessary to determine the efficacy and safety of these supplements, especially since most of them haven’t been clinically tested. To avoid running lengthy and sometime expensive clinical trial, product manufacturers often rely on supplier’s data and/or academic literature about the ingredients in the final supplement composition. However, it is necessary to test the finish product since ingredient’s dosage and ingredients interaction and/or synergy can determine the outcome both from a safety and efficacy point of view. The quality of the clinical study is also important (number of subjects, inclusion/exclusion criteria, end points measures, data significance). Finally, Institutional Review Boards (IRB) approval is becoming increasingly in demand prior to the clinical study especially if dealing with compositions that are new to the market and carry some safety risk, and is often requested by scientific journals when trying to publish the data.

In conclusion, the cosmetic and the nutrition (supplements) industry are getting closer, with beauty as a shared target. Innovative supplement formulations carrying high end natural ingredients are becoming popular and demanded by the market. Rigorous science and testing is mandatory to make sure the formulation can survive scrutiny by the consumers and the FDA. Combination of topical and ingestible treatments in the beauty market will continue to grow in the following years.

Ellis SR, Nguyen M, Vaughn AR, Notay M, Burney WA, Sandhu S, Sivamani RK. The Skin and Gut Microbiome and Its Role in Common Dermatologic Conditions. Microorganisms 7(11):550, 2019
Hadshiew IM, Foitzik K, Arck PC, Paus R. Burden of hair loss: stress and the underestimated psychosocial impact of telogen effluvium and androgenetic alopecia. J Invest Dermatol. 123(3):455-7, 2004
Adelman MJ, Bedford LM, Potts GA. Clinical efficacy of popular oral hair growth supplement ingredients. Int J Dermatol 60(10):1199-1210, 2021
Clark AK, Haas KN, Sivamani RK. Edible Plants and Their Influence on the Gut Microbiome and Acne. Int J Mol Sci 17;18(5):1070, 2017
Sardana K, Sachdeva S. Role of nutritional supplements in selected dermatological disorders: A review. J Cosmet Dermatol 21(1):85-98, 2022

Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is Nutrafol’s Chief Scientific Officer. Part of the Leadership team, Giorgio spearheads the brand innovation, product formulation and scientific communication. After obtaining his PhD in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in Academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 22 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, Innovation, Science, and Product Development at multiple companies, including La Prairie and Kiehl’s. He has helped bringing more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, he holds 2 patents and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty and natural ingredients. Giorgio serves on the NYSCC board as advisor.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Call For Presentations

January 18, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Leading North American Event for Ingredient Innovations Seeks Thought Leaders In Beauty & Personal Care

(New York, NY, January 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) announces a Call for Presentations for its 2023 Suppliers’ Day trade show and conferences. Renowned for its comprehensive educational program, NYSCC and its scientific advisory committee are seeking subject matter experts, industry leaders, and influencers, who can share their unique insight on cosmetic chemistry, scientific research, product development trends, and technologies that are driving the beauty and personal care industry.

Suppliers’ Day will take place May 2-3, 2023 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. This top event in North America will bring the entire industry together for a “Week of Beauty,” and discovering the latest products and services including high performance ingredients, formulations, fragrances, testing, lab equipment, and regulatory solutions.

The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Call for Presentations deadline is Tuesday, January 31, 2003. Content that closely examine trends and technologies that are driving formulations with special emphasis this year on “Reimagining Renewal & Wellness,” are encouraged. Topics of interest also include:
• Biotechnology in Beauty & Personal Care
• Color Cosmetics
• Digitizing Formulation
• Diversity/Inclusion in Beauty/Personal Care
• Fragrance
• Global Cosmetics Marketplace
• Hair Care – Trends, Color +
• Independent Brands – Trends, Needs +
• Microbiome
• Oral Care
• Pet Care
• Regulatory/Compliance
• Sustainability/Green/Clean

More information about NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and its Call for Presentations can be found at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day or click here to submit.

Any questions, contact: suppliersday@nyscc.org.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org, Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

The Dermal-Epidermal Junction

January 17, 2023by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

The skin barrier function has recently dominated the cosmetic media and consumer market segment. The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is a region within the skin which does not get a lot of face time relative to its high-profile neighbor (epidermis / stratum corneum). The DEJ is the birthplace of the epidermis so it seems reasonable to shed some light on light on this structure, and to ask some questions on why this skincare target may be under promoted for anti-age benefits. For this blog post we will use a marketing style “fact sheet” format to guide us through our chat on “The Dermal-Epidermal Junction”

What it is:

Many are aware of the well-known “brick and mortar” model of the epidermis. That structure (house) needs a foundation for stability and functionality. The DEJ is the foundation of the brick and mortar “house”. The DEJ is composed of four component areas: the basal cell plasma membrane with its specialized attachment devices or hemidesmosomes, an electron-lucent area, the lamina lucida, the basal lamina, and the sub-basal lamina fibrous components, including anchoring fibrils, dermal microfibril bundles, and collagen fibers (1). Hemidesmosomes (HDs) are highly specialized integrin-mediated epithelial attachment structures that make cells firmly adhere to the extracellular matrix by establishing a link between the underlying basement membrane (BM) and the internal mechanical stress-resilient keratin intermediate filament (IF) network (2). The next region progressing downward in the skin is the lamina lucida (LL), it is approximately 30–40 nm in width. This region is directly subjacent to the plasma membranes of basal keratinocytes. The layer underneath the LL is called the lamina densa (LD). This layer of the DEJ is 30-50 nm wide and has biochemical/physical interactions with the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the upper dermis (3).

Image Source Here

What It does:

The dermal-epidermal junction has several functions This area anchors the epidermis to the dermis and is responsible for the exchange of oxygen, nutrients and waste products between the vascularized dermis and the avascular epidermis. This connectivity between the epidermis and the dermis allows for a strong resistance against a possible physical stress (4). The DEJ provides both a structural support to keratinocytes and a specific niche that mediates signals influencing their behavior. The DEJ is also a highly interactive zone acting as a substrate for melanocyte/keratinocyte interactions for melanin distribution as well as a selective permeable barrier for epidermal and dermal cross talk in both directions.

Why isn’t the DEJ a more consistent focus of cosmeceutical product development:

The DEJ forms a fine line between the epidermis and dermis. It is known that the undulating rete ridge area becomes flatter with aging skin. This event lowers the surface area thereby decreasing cellular cross talk and nutrition movement in this region. The dermal capillary structures near the DEJ are a link to the human body and its systemic circulatory network. Could this be a cause of concern for cosmetic products? What if systemic absorption reduces a portion of the active from its sight of action? Another concern may be the potential for a portion of the cosmetic ingredients being moved in the body’s circulatory system. That is a “line in the sand” many companies may not want to cross. The DEJ is complicated, maybe the ability to produce some anti-age benefits in this region is outweighed by the complexity of the task.

Image Source: Kynan T. Lawlor, Pritinder Kaur: International Journal of Molecular Sciences 16 (12):28098-28107

How can the DEJ be evaluated or monitored?

If the DEJ is so important, how can we evaluate this area in a noninvasive fashion. One way is to look for a particular protein (Laminin 322) using immunofluorescence (5). Another option to evaluate the DEJ is to use Raman spectroscopy. This technique has been used to evaluate melanin distribution in vivo (6).

What are some DEJ biomarkers of interest for cosmetics?

The dermal-epidermal junction consists of a network of several interacting structural proteins that strengthen adhesion and mediate signaling events (7). Collagen VII stimulates renewal and improves cohesion of the DEJ. Collagen IV is a major constituent in basement membranes. It is involved in maintaining a functional interface between the epidermis and the dermis. Laminin 322 is a key target for DEJ anchoring and cohesion. Peptides have also been identified as opportunities to target to DEJ (8). With this said, there aren’t a lot of cosmetic brands positioning towards the DEJ. The same can be said for raw materials suppliers, I didn’t find a lot of cosmetic materials targeting the DEJ.

In summary, targeting the DEJ can be challenging due to its location in the skin. Caution should be taken as any intended influence of the DEJ from a topical strategy may become systemic due to the proximity of the circulatory/lymphatic vessels. However, that disadvantage may be an opportunity to “feed” the DEJ from a targeted nutritional point of view from within.

References

R A Briggaman, C E Wheeler Jr : The Epidermal-Dermal Junction, J Invest Dermatol, 1975 Jul;65 (1):71-84

Gernot Walko et al. Molecular architecture and function of the hemidesmosome, Cell and Tissue Research 2015; 360(3): 529–544.

Eduardo Calonje , The structure and function of skin : McKee’s Pathology of the Skin, Chapter 1, 1-34.e3

Zhizhong Shen, Rete ridges: Morphogenesis, function, regulation, and reconstruction, Acta Biomaterialia Volume 155, 1 January 2023, Pages 19-34

Lincoln et al. : Gentamicin induces LAMB3 nonsense mutation readthrough and restores functional laminin 332 in junctional epidermolysis bullosa, National Academy of Sciences, PNAS | vol. 115 | no. 28 |

P . Yakimov et al. Melanin distribution from the dermal–epidermal junction to the stratum corneum: non‑invasive in vivo assessment by fluorescence and Raman microspectroscopy, Scientific Reports | (2020) 10:14374

Stephanie Goletz et al. Structural proteins of the dermal-epidermal junction targeted by autoantibodies in pemphigoid diseases, Exp Dermatolactions Dec;26(12):1154-1162. doi: 10.1111/exd.13446.

Sekyoo Jeong et al. Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression, Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2020, 21, 73;

About the Author

Marc Cornell, BS. is a consultant at Mar-key Consulting LLC where he services the consumer product industry with innovative product development concepts.