Home Suppliers’ Day Attend Programming World of Chemistry

World of Chemistry

Home Suppliers’ Day Attend Programming World of Chemistry

World of Chemistry

by Erin Layton

Sponsored by:

Course Title:

The World of Chemistry:  A Global Perspective

May 15th, 2018 (10:00am-1:40pm)

Presentation Theater – right on the show floor!

Moderator:  Richard Scott, Editor – Personal Care Magazine

Track Overview

The World of Chemistry will bring a global perspective to raw materials, solutions, formulation and regulations.  Presenters are leading experts from countries and regions that define the beauty landscape.


10:00am – 10:10am

Introduction – IFSCC speaker &  NYSCC Suppliers’ Day as a Benefactor of IFSCC

Amy Wyatt – VP, US Innovation & Development, Regulatory Affairs, and Quality Assurance – CHANEL, Inc. ; Immediate Past President, IFSCC

10:10am – 10:40am

“Penetration Strategies for Drugs in and Through the Skin”

Jürgen Laderman – Vice President – IFSCC

10:45am – 11:10am 

“Cell Nucleus Health: A Novel Anti-Aging Concept”

Dr. Fred Zülli (Switzerland) – Mibelle Biochemistry

The cell nucleus does not only contain the cell’s DNA but is also involved in regulating important cellular processes. Efficient transport of molecules into and out of the cell nucleus is crucial for intracellular communication and adaptation to the ever-changing environment. With age, the efficiency and selectivity of the transport of molecules through the nuclear pores decrease.

Recent studies have shown that the transport protein RanBP17and lamin A, a protein important for the shape of the nucleus, are reduced in aged cells. In the premature aging syndrome “Progeria”, lamin A is mutated and is therefore not correctly processed. This confirms the link between proper cell nucleus function and aging processes.

In our research we have investigated the importance of cell nucleus health as a novel target for anti-aging cosmetics. In aged keratinocytes lamin A and RanBP17 are downregulated. Interestingly, a moss culture extract, produced in a biotechnological process in Switzerland, was able to counteract this downregulation. Additionally, this active could improve the hot-humid/cold-dry adaptation of reconstructed skin and may therefore activate the general resilience of the skin against environmental changes.

11:15am – 11:40am

“Urban and Environmental Pollution – What, Where and How to Protect”

Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel (Israel) – IBR 

Environmental pollutants including heavy metals and other toxic compounds such as PAHs and aldehydes are increasingly abundant in our urbanized and industrialized environments.

UV and High Energy Visible (HEV) light including blue light are another type of ‘pollution’ affecting among others our skin.  Pollutants are known to have detrimental effects on our skin and body altogether and lead to various illnesses such as respiratory diseases, headaches, asthma, skin rashes and more.

Our appearance is the first to be affected, with early signs of ageing, wrinkles, pigmentation spots, disrupted barrier, overall dryness and skin imperfections all associated with polluted environments.

A major unmet need of the industry is for effective, natural and safe means to protect the body and the skin against pollution to which it is exposed daily. There are multiple ways to prevent, reverse and repair pollution damage. These include:

  1. Detoxifying by deactivation of pollutants.
  2. Activation of detoxification systems to neutralize pollutants and the harmful molecules that are breathed in or passed through the skin barrier.
  3. Reinforcing and strengthening the skin barrier thereby protecting from and preventing the penetration of pollutants and UV (shielding).
  4. Increasing viability in the presence of pollution.
  5. Repairing and reversing pollution-, sun- and blue light generated damage.

The suggested solutions are natural products that come to address one or more aspects of protection, prevention and repair.

11:45am – 12:10pm

“The Challenge of Evaluating and Marketing Cosmetic Actives for a Global Market”

John Lofthouse (Germany) – CLR-Berlin 

The consumer uses cosmetics to look and feel better. New trends and new product concepts are appealing to the average consumer, which makes the cosmetic industry strongly marketing oriented. The science behind many cosmetic products, however, is state of the art . In this context, substantiating cosmetic claims is not an easy task. The problem is also made more complicated by global variances in requirements. This is especially the case for cosmetic active ingredients. These ingredients are both tested in vitro and in vivo with the aim to supply the cosmetic producing industry with an efficacious and safe product. An important emphasis is put on making sure that the in vitro and in vivo studies are relevant and coherent, where the results obtained in the in vivo studies are in line with those obtained in vitro. There are many possibilities for designing in vitro and in vivo studies. This presentation will discuss some of the technologies used and which goals are relevant to different markets and more importantly relevant to the consumer.

12:15pm – 12:40pm

“The Impact of Brazil’s new Biodiversity Regulation for Raw Ingredients on Manufacturers and Cosmetic Industries”

João Hansen, Formerly Avon Executive & Current President – ABC Consultee Counsel

Brazil’s new Biodiversity Regulation, in force since November 6th, 2017, completely changed the previous regulation about accessing the Brazilian genetic heritage and traditional knowledge. Raw Ingredient industries, final cosmetic manufactures and the researchers have one year to comply with the new regulation – That means until November 6th, 2018. In this presentation most important points and what companies are doing or must do to comply with the regulation will be covered.

12:45pm – 1:10pm

“Innovating for the Luxury Market

Amy Wyatt – VP, US Innovation & Development, Regulatory Affairs, and Quality Assurance – CHANEL, Inc. ; Immediate Past President, IFSCC

Presentation includes a global perspective on:
• Communicating authenticity to consumers through brand stories
• Case history of creating luxury product

1:15pm – 1:40pm

“Suppliers’ World View – Panel Presentation with Expanscience, MSL and Infinitec

Moderator: Richard Scott – Editor – Personal Care Magazine


Noreza Papin – Area Manager North America, Cosmetic Active Ingredients – Laboratories Expanscience

Alex Fotheringham – Cosmetics Manager – Microbiological Solutions Limited (MSL)

Joan Gonzalez – Marketing Manager – Infinitec Barcelona

Presenter Details

Moderator: Richard Scott – Editor – Personal Care Magazine

Richard Scott has been Editor of Personal Care since 2009, and during the past 9 years has seen the publication go from strength to strength, growing the magazine’s presence in new global territories and online, as well as developing brand new Personal Care supplements. Richard has a keen interest in researching innovative new raw materials and the ways in which the industry will approach the need for increased levels of product personalisation.

Amy Wyatt – VP, US Innovation & Development, Regulatory Affairs, and Quality Assurance – CHANEL, Inc. ; Immediate Past President, IFSCC 

Amy has worked in the Cosmetic Industry since 1993. She joined CHANEL in 2006 as Executive Director of the Formulation Laboratories in charge of creating makeup, skin care and toiletries. Currently, she is responsible for directing the US Research and Innovation in the Beauty category, managing regulatory risk and compliance and assuring high quality incoming product. Prior to CHANEL, she worked 13 years at Aveda Corporation / Estee Lauder Companies where she was the Director of Skin Care and Makeup.

In 2016, she became President of the IFSCC – an international scientific federation with 16,000 global members. She joined the IFSCC Praesidium in 2006 as Education Committee Chair developing and executing education programs. In 2006, Amy was the President of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). She has been an active member of the Society since 1994 serving in many national and chapter positions.

Amy is a member of the PCPC (Personal Care Product Council) Science and Regulatory Committee ( SACX) and the Policy Advocacy Steering Committee ( PASC).

Jürgen Laderman – Vice President – IFSCC

Jürgen Lademann graduated as physicist from the Moscow Lomonosov State University in 1980 and worked as a research assistant at the Central Institute of Optics and Spectroscopy of the Academy of Sciences in Berlin, Germany. From 1981 to 1984, Jürgen Lademann had been a post-graduate fellow at the Lo¬monosov University, from which he received his PhD in 1984. 1991 he received a PhD in spectroscopy from the Friedrich Schiller University, of Jena, Germany. From 1993 to 1995 he headed the Medical Sensor Technology Unit at the Institute of Physics, Department of Electrical Engineering, University of the Armed Forces, Munich, Germany, receiving his venia legendi from that university in 1995. In 1996 Jürgen Lademann joined the Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin and was appointed Director of the Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology within the Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology. In the same year he received his venia legendi in biophysics from the Humboldt University of Berlin. In 2001 the Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin appointed him full professor of Dermatology.

Jürgen Lademann is actively committed to various societies, scientific bodies, and editorial boards. He is the Vice President of the IFSCC and the editor of the Journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. He authored and coauthored more than 600 peer-reviewed articles.

Dr. Fred Zülli (Switzerland) – Mibelle Biochemistry

Dr. Fred Zülli is Managing Director of Mibelle Biochemistry Switzerland. He founded Mibelle Biochemistry 27 years ago and invented a large number of patent protected actives based on different technologies for the cosmetic industry. Dr. Fred Zülli studied chemical engineering at the Technical Engineering School of Winterthur and continued his studies at the ETH in Zurich in molecular biology and biophysics. In his Ph.D. thesis at the ETH he investigated the thermostability of bacterial enzymes.

Dr Liki von Oppen-Bezalel – IBR (Israel)

Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel holds a position at IBR Ltd. As Vice President of Business Development and Marketing. She completed her doctoral work in NCTR, the National Center of Toxicological Research, US FDA and graduated from the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Israel in microbiology and biotechnology. Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel has more than 15 years experience in the biotechnology industry managing leading positions in R&D and business development. Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel has published a book chapter as well as numerous articles in international scientific publications in both fields of environmental biology and cosmetics sciences, and holds co-inventorship of patents in the cosmetic actives arena.

John Lofthouse (Germany) – CLR-Berlin

John Lofthouse worked in the development laboratories of Novartis (then Ciba Geigy) for 14 years. He joined CLR Berlin in 2006 as Global Sales and Marketing Director. John has been an active member of the UK Society of Cosmetic Scientists for 20 years and served on the council, chairing and sitting on committees such as the scientific program committee.

João Hansen, Formerly Avon Executive & Current President – ABC Consultee Counsel

João Hansen: 41+ years in the Cosmetic industries, 38+at Avon. Quality, Manufacturing, R&D and Regulatory Affairs are the areas of proficiency.

Past President of Brazilian Association of Cosmetology (ABC) period 2013-2017. Current President of ABC’s Consultee Counsel. As part of the board of ABC for the last 32 years, has organized several Cosmetology Congresses where we always talk about cosmetic regulation. President of 22nd IFSCC Conference, late October 2013, in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. In this event we hold a workshop: Cosmetic Worldwide harmonization: how close how far we are, having speaker from Asia, Europe, USA, Brazil and LATAM.

Graduated in Industrial Chemistry at Oswaldo Cruz Collage – São Paulo – Brazil

MBA – IESE Business School – Navarra’s University – Barcelona.

Noreza Papin – Area Manager North America, Cosmetic Active Ingredients – Laboratories Expanscience

Noreza Papin joined Laboratories Expanscience in 2013 to manage an international distributors network. Over the past 15 years, she worked in Europe, Asia and USA.
She has presented several presentations during cosmetic and scientific congresses, and conducted scientific training in many countries.
Since 2017, she is based in NY and manages the North American cosmetic ingredients business unit for the Laboratoires Expanscience
She graduated from the University of Paris with a master degree international business school and a specialization in skin biology.

Alex Fotheringham – Cosmetics Manager – Microbiological Solutions Limited (MSL)

Alex Fotheringham is Cosmetics Manager at Microbiological Solutions Limited (MSL). He joined MSL 4 years ago as a member of the laboratory team and now heads up the cosmetic regulatory team. MSL are an integrated provider of both Testing and Regulatory services and act as Responsible Person for some of the world’s leading cosmetic brands.
Alex studied biology at the University of Hull before joining the chemical industry working in Biocidal Product Registrations before transitioning to personal care and cosmetics.
He now advises clients located around the world on all matters pertaining to cosmetic products, their microbiological safety and international compliance.

Joan Gonzalez – Marketing Manager – Infinitec Barcelona

Joan Gonzalez is Marketing Manager at Infinitec Barcelona, a company specialized in active delivery systems for the cosmetic industry with a strong background in health science. Joan has been connected to the cosmetic industry in project development (active ingredients and delivery systems) since 2000, working for the most highly regarded biotech companies in Barcelona (one of the most important tech hubs in Southern Europe). These years in fine chemistry mass market and also dermocosmetics has given Joan a good understanding of end users and product branding. As well as cosmetic business development Joan has also been working in his own independent company since 2006.