Innovation in Textured Hair Care
Textured hair is hair that is naturally wavy, curly or coily rather than straight. Over half of the world’s population has textured hair, and consumers are interested in addressing their hair care needs based on their hair texture or curl pattern and style goal as opposed to their ethnicity. Textured hair types have received increasingly more attention in recent times with companies and stores delivering more product lines and campaigns dedicated to wavy, curly and coily-haired consumers.
This program features a diverse lineup of scientists, media influencers and a stylist who will educate the audience on the characteristics of textured hair types and the habits & practices of consumers with textured hair, some of the key drivers of the growth of this segment and recent advancements in the study of textured hair.
|8:00 - 8:45 am||Registration & Opening Remarks|
|8:45- 12:00 pm||“Textured Hair, Its Characteristics and Comparison Against Non-Textured Hair”
Dr. Ali Syed, President - Avlon Industries
Dr. Maliha Syed, Principal Scientist - Avlon Industries
"The Curl Revolution - How Social Media Transformed an Industry"
"The Role of Social Media in Textured Hair Care" (Panel Discussion)
|12:00 - 1:00 pm||Lunch / Raffle & NYSCC Board Recognition|
|1:00-4:15 pm||"Why is Textured Hair So Fragile? Insights from Single Fiber Mechanical Tests on African Hair"
Dr. Trefor Evans, Director of Research - TRI
“Heat on Hair: A Mechanical Engineering and User Needs Perspective”
“The Natural Hair Movement: Past, Present & Future”
|4:15-4:30 PM||Closing Remarks|
“Textured Hair, Its Characteristics and Comparison Against Non-Textured Hair”
Dr. Ali N. Syed, President - Avlon Industries
Dr. Maliha Syed, Principal Scientist - Avlon Industries
Abstract: The textured hair is wavy, curly, and coily in its configuration and varies a lot in its properties such as hair diameter, ellipticity, tensile strength, fragility, moisture content, ease of combing, and porosity, as compared to straight hair.
Since textured hair varies significantly in its curliness, it is divided into three major types based upon the wavy/curly or coily configuration of the hair. Type 1 is considered as straight/ non-textured hair, whereas Type 2, 3, and 4 are considered as textured hair.
In this study, hair diameters and ellipticity of Type 1, Type 2, Type 3, and Type 4 were determined and the variability in hair diameter within a single hair fiber and within various types were exposed. The differences in tensile strength and ease of combing of Type 1 and Type 4 hair were discussed.
Different methodologies such as Liquid Retention, and Fiber Sink Test were examined to determine fiber porosity. Additionally, porosities of Type 1 and 4 were compared, and differences in porosity of Curly/coily hair type were examined.
Biography: Since 1984, Dr. Ali N. Syed has been President of his own international corporation: Avlon Industries, which manufactures hair care products: Affirm, Keracare, FiberGuard, MoisturColor, and Texture Release, Uberliss. Dr Syed has also developed several world renowned consumer brands. His most recent consumer brand "As I Am" sold under Salon Commodities, is currently available in Mass retailers.
Since 2012, he has also been serving as an Editor for the scientific journal, TenSides and was a guest speaker at the London College of Hair & Fashion in England and ABC Associacao Brasileira de Cosmetologia (Brazilian Association of Cosmetology) in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Dr Ali N. Syed has also conducted numerous lectures on the chemistry of hair for organizations like Chicago Cosmetology Association and has been a Guest Artist at the Midwest Beauty Show. Dr. Syed holds a Ph.D., B.S. and M.S. degrees in Chemistry (with honors) and an MBA in Marketing/Management.
Biography: Dr. Maliha Syed is an emerging research scientist, using her diverse background in chemistry, economics, and polymer science & engineering to formulate breakthrough cosmetic technologies. Committed to the advancement of beauty through scientific innovation, she aspires to develop sustainable hair- and skincare solutions for an international audience. She graduated from the George Washington University (GWU) in 2009 with a bachelor of science in chemistry and economics. As an undergraduate she investigated natural sunscreens via the alkylation of methyl urocanate and performed research for a national pipe remediation project at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). She completed her PhD in polymer science & engineering at the University of Southern Mississippi (USM) in the School of Polymers and High Performance Materials. Her dissertation research specialized in the hydrogen bond-driven structural ordering, volumetric, and thermodynamic properties of dendritic polymers. She has received various fellowships awards including the National Science Foundation (NSF) GK-12 Fellowship and first-place poster at the 2014 Annual Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Meeting. After completing her PhD in 2015 she joined Avlon Industries as a Principal Scientist.
“The Curl Revolution - How Social Media Transformed an Industry”
Michelle Breyer, President & Co-Founder – TextureMedia LLC
Abstract: Frustrated by the lack of products and information for people with curly and coily hair, people took matters into their own hands to create their own. While once these brands would have been doomed to obscurity, social media provided a platform enabling them to quickly reach consumers. It has led to a new generation of web sites and influencers, changing purchase drivers. It also has blurred the line between the ethnic category and general market as the texture category has exploded.
Biography: Named one of the 50 Most Influential People in the Multicultural Market by Women's Wear Daily in 2015, Michelle Breyer is a visionary entrepreneur who took a personal frustration over out-of-control curls and built it into the largest social media platform for hair. TextureMedia reaches 26 million influencers a month, and is considered the top authority for textured hair. What started as a hobby now includes two consumer web sites, an ecommerce site, a market research division and partnership with Modern Salon. Michelle has consulted with numerous brands and retailers to help shape their textured-hair, whether it be developing the right products or creating communication strategies to most effectively connect with this valuable consumer. She recently wrote “The Curl Revolution: Inspiring Stories and Practical Advice from the NaturallyCurly Community,” which will be available in September of this year.
Additionally, Michelle is a contributor to several books on curly/natural hair, including: “Miss Jessie’s: Creating a Successful Business from Scratch” by Miko and Titi Branch, “Curly Girl: The Handbook,” written by Devacurl creator Lorraine Massey, Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, Ayana Byrd and Lori Thorps. She has also been recognized for WWD - 50 most influential People in the Multicultural Market and awarded the Lifetime CURLchievement Award from CURLbox - 2015 at Cosmoprof.
Panel: “The Role of Social Media in Textured Hair Care”
- Michelle Breyer, President & Co-Founder - TextureMedia LLC
- Jenell Stewart, Lifestyle & Beauty Expert; Founder & Editor in Chief - KinkyCurlyCoilyMe.com
- Textured-hair Consumer
Biography: Jenell Stewart, the founder and editor in chief of the award-winning website
KinkyCurlyCoilyMe.com. Jenell dedicates herself to educating and uplifting women with natural hair by way of her extremely popular website and YouTube channel. Jenell has been featured in Essence Magazine, Black Enterprise.com, and starred on the Dr.Oz television show as a Beauty Expert. In 2014, Jenell won the Root Top 100 Peoples Choice Award, In 2012 she was named one of Essences top Instagramers and that same year KinkyCurlyCoilyMe won an award for “Favorite Website” of the Natural Hair Community. She is a mom of two precious children and is a wife to the most supportive partner ever.
"Why is Textured Hair So Fragile? Insights from Single Fiber Mechanical Tests on African Hair"
Dr. Trefor Evans, Director of Research & Institute Fellow – Textile Research Institute (TRI) Princeton
Abstract: Hair breakage is one of the biggest issues for individuals with highly kinky/curly hair - to the end that it can dictate very different habits and practices in the end-user. Conventional single fiber tensile experiments confirm that this hair type is indeed weaker – but not to the extent one might expect, based on the severity of consumer concerns. We have been conducting research into the tendency for fiber failure using an alternate mechanical stimulus, fatigue testing, and here observe the anticipated substantially higher breakage. It becomes necessary to contemplate why differing conclusions arise from these seemingly related testing procedures. In doing so, a theory arises that has wider reaching consequences in conceptualizing the reasons for why hair fibers break. As these ideas develop, it becomes ever more apparent that kinky African hair fibers break not just faster, but also by a different mechanism. This acquired knowledge of how and why fibers break provides strategies for mitigation.
Biography: Dr. Trefor Evans has worked in the hair care industry for over 25 years. The first 16 of these were spent as a scientist and manager in the product development labs of large consumer good companies (Helene Curtis and Unilever). He then served for five years as Director of Measurement Services at TRI-Princeton (TRI), where he now holds the titles Director of Research and Institute Fellow and is responsible for TRI’s Research Program.
Dr. Evans holds a Ph.D. in Physical-Analytical Chemistry and has spent his career using measurement science to support the development, launch and maintenance of many international cosmetic brands and products. These activities include fundamental research, supporting product development efforts, substantiating and validating marketing claims, and a variety of miscellaneous problem-solving.
Dr. Evans is highly active in the hair care industry through many working relationships with companies of all shape and size. He is a regular presenter at International Hair Conferences and has been an invited speaker at many technical meetings and symposia. He was Chairman of both the 6th and 7th International Conference on Applied Hair Science.
Dr. Evans has published numerous articles in trade magazines and the scientific literature and is co-author and co-editor of the book “Practical Modern Hair Science”. He writes a regular column on Hair and Hair Testing for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine – and also sits on this publication’s advisory board. He similarly serves on the Expert Reviewing Panel for both the Journal of Cosmetic Science and the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. He holds seven patents in the area of hair care and his research work has been awarded by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists on three separate occasions.
For the past 10 years, Dr. Evans has facilitated and taught TRI’s two annual training classes on Hair Science and Product Claims which have been held in the US and Europe. He guest lectures on the subject of Hair and Hair Science for a variety of different academic Cosmetic programs and has instructed at events organized by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
“Heat on Hair: A Mechanical Engineering and User Needs Perspective”
Dr. Tahira Reid, Assistant Professor – Purdue University, School of Mechanical Engineering
Jaesik Hahn, Graduate Student – Purdue University, School of Mechanical Engineering
Abstract: While manipulation of textured hair using heat appliances such as a flat iron is a common practice, little is known about how heat spreads through hair. In this talk, we will explore this much neglected topic in two parts. In the first half of our talk, we will discuss how alienated much of academic work is from the concerns of people with textured hair, and how those unmet needs are being tackled within offline and online communities. Such communities are effective in sharing available knowledge and some have personally developed regimens for judicious use of heat; however, they lack the scientific rigor necessary to produce results that are generalizable across various hair types and needs of individuals. In the second half of our talk, we will present the ongoing efforts to study the effects of heat on textured hair from the perspective of mechanical engineering. We specifically study thermal properties of hair by measuring thermal diffusivity, which indicates how effectively heat spreads through hair. These studies provide the foundational work for development of a model that describes heat transfer between a hair bundle and flat iron. The study culminates, by establishing a model which predicts the amount of heat damage under various usage scenarios of a flat iron.
These studies are a first step towards addressing the particular needs of textured hair in the context of heat usage. It aims at establishing robust mathematical correlations between various stakeholders in the interaction between heat and hair. We hope to support the decision making of flat iron users in their grooming practices by demystifying the complexities of the effects of heat on hair and empower them with information as it relates to their much cherished hair.
Biography: Tahira Reid is an Assistant Professor in the School of Mechanical Engineering at Purdue University and is the director of the Research in Engineering and Interdisciplinary Design (REID) Laboratory. Her research interests include integrating human considerations in engineering systems and the design process. Prior to arriving to Purdue in 2012, she completed a postdoctoral position in the Mechanical Engineering department at Iowa State. In 2010, she received her PhD from the University of Michigan-Ann Arbor in Design Science, with Mechanical Engineering and Psychology as her focus areas. Dr. Reid received both her BS and MS degrees in Mechanical Engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute (RPI) in 2000 and 2004, respectively.
As a graduate student at the University of Michigan, Dr. Reid began to explore her curiosities with the challenges of textured hair types and the ways in which mechanical engineering concepts could have an impact. This led to significant review of the literature and eventually a class project in a course called “Design Optimization” where she worked with a team to develop a model for optimizing the hair care of African-American women by considering styling, damage, and chemical processes used to straighten hair. After becoming a professor, a new challenge caught her attention: the struggles with heat damage experienced by women with curly hair and their attempts to address them on YouTube. This led to a collaboration with her colleague at Purdue, Dr. Amy Marconnet, Director of the Marconnet Thermal and Energy Conversion (MTEC) Laboratory where these studies began.
Biography: Jaesik Hahn received a B.S. in mechanical engineering from Purdue University, West Lafayette in 2013. Co-advised by Dr. Tahira Reid at the REID lab and Dr. Amy Marconnet at the MTEC lab, he is pursuing a Ph.D. degree in mechanical engineering at the same university. The scope of his research ranges across thermal characterization of human hair, heat transfer modeling of hair bundles, and predictive modeling of styling efficacy and heat damage of hair induced by flat irons.
Their early work on hair has been featured in the National Geographic magazine, National Public Radio (NPR), Reuters, the Washington Post, Smithsonian Magazine, and many other media outlets.
“The Natural Hair Movement: Past, Present & Future”
Anthony Dickey, Celebrity Stylist & Founder – Hair Rules Salon & Brand
Abstract: As a hair stylist for 30 years, I’ve had the unique opportunity to work in fashion / beauty, the salon industry and product manufacturing. A trifecta of information for a consumer that found her own way with no help except the worldwide web where she was able to form a community sharing stories both empowering and painful.
Through my unique experience and point of view, I will help industry insiders better understand the culture of the consumer, how she came to be and who we are all because of it. Additionally, I will offer my perspective on the future of textured hair care and styling.
Biography: Stylist, author, product innovator, and salon owner, Dickey has spent the better part of his 30 year career dispelling the myth & mockeries surrounding women and their hair.
Changing perceptions of beauty and influencing practice, Dickey has pioneered a new standard in beauty that aims to redefine standards in hair care to address the distinctive needs of a multi-textural world.
Touted as a "Style Svengali" by the New York Times, WWD named Dickey as one of the “most influential people in the multicultural market”. To EBONY he`s a member of their elite “Power100”.
Through his actions and accomplishment, his ability to shape and influence the world in which we live, Dickey has mastered the mystery of textured hair to create iconic hairstyles for designers, advertisers, photographers and celebrities alike. Solange, Jill Scott, Rihanna, Estelle, Kelis, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker are but a few notables he has styled for publications including Vogue, Vanity Fair, Essence, and Harper's Bazaar.
His call to action has been the Hair Rules salon. Named Top 100 Salons in America, Hair Rules salon is built on the heritage of beauty education and community. With an elite team of stylists, this unique meeting place has Naturally Curly naming Dickey to be one of the “best curly hair stylist in the world”.
|Event Date||10-12-2017 8:00 am|
|Event End Date||10-12-2017 5:00 pm|
|Location||The Chart House|