Translating Cosmetic Science into Real-World Performance

Translating Cosmetic Science into Real-World Performance

FDU Madison Campus

Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Consultant, Cosmetic Industry

The Intersection Between Women’s Wellness and Beauty

Women’s Wellness is taking center stage in the market, and new brands emerge every day. The focus is on diagnostics, personalized treatments (including drugs and supplements), and lifestyle coaching encompassing diet, sport, and sleep — across every stage of a woman’s life. Beauty is a natural part of that wellness journey, as it is often — and should be — an expression of good maintenance and a healthy body.

The rise of topicals and supplements addressing skin and hair metabolic health mirrors what is happening in gut and brain health, both of which are strongly connected to hair and skin. Products designed for women’s wellness are increasingly taking a holistic approach, as interventions trigger a global response throughout the body. All our organs are connected and influence each other. Moreover, a beautiful appearance brings confidence and supports bonding, stimulating overall wellness. Hormonal treatments, too, can influence appearance in both positive and negative ways. A more integrative approach is needed — and beauty must be part of the wellness journey.

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is a consultant for the cosmetic industry with 25 years of experience as an executive directing R&D, Science, and Product Development at organizations including Veracity, LG Beauty, Nutrafol, Kiehl’s, Dior, La Prairie, and others. After completing his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio spent 15 years in academia at institutions including Mount Sinai Medical School and Harvard University before joining the cosmetic and supplement industry. He has helped bring more than 300 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, authored more than 100 publications, and is a keynote speaker and writer on clean beauty, natural ingredients, and sustainability. Giorgio chairs the NYSCC Outreach Committee and is a founding member of the NYSCC Scientific Committee.

Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

Principal Scientist, Materials Science — Ashland, Inc.

The Science of Shampoo Performance: From Formulation to Measurable Consumer Benefit

Co-authors: Diya Patel and Timothy Gillece

Shampoo performance extends far beyond cleansing, encompassing a complex interplay of formulation design, microstructural organization, deposition mechanisms, and consumer perception. This presentation provides a comprehensive overview of modern shampoo technology, with an emphasis on how formulation variables translate into measurable and perceivable benefits.

The discussion begins with the role of surfactant systems — including anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic components — and their influence on micellar structure, mildness, and compatibility with conditioning agents. Attention is given to self-assembled structures such as worm-like micelles and their impact on rheology, stability, and sensory attributes. The dynamic nature of shampoos during use is explored, highlighting how dilution and shear trigger structural transitions that govern the release and deposition of functional ingredients.

Polymers are examined not only as rheology modifiers but also as active participants in deposition processes, acting as carriers and surface-modifying agents. Coacervation is discussed as a key — but not exclusive — mechanism for delivering conditioning materials to the hair fiber, alongside alternative pathways involving silicones, structured oils, and hybrid systems. The formulation challenges associated with anti-dandruff shampoos are also addressed, particularly the need to balance therapeutic efficacy with cosmetic performance.

A central focus of the presentation is the measurement of shampoo efficacy. Both sensory evaluation methods — including paired comparison techniques — and instrumental approaches such as combing force, friction analysis, and deposition quantification are reviewed. The relationship between instrumental data and consumer perception is critically examined, with emphasis on experimental design and statistical interpretation. By connecting formulation strategy to deposition behavior and measurable consumer-relevant outcomes, this presentation offers a practical framework for the design and evaluation of high-performance shampoo systems.

Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D., has more than 25 years of experience in the personal care industry, with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. He is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, Inc. and leads their Materials Science team. Roger has authored more than 40 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks, and is the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition. He is the 2023 recipient of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ prestigious Maison G. de Navarre Award. Roger holds a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and a Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry from Seton Hall University, and serves as an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University, where he teaches Biochemistry to graduate students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Prior to his career in science, Roger served four years in the U.S. Navy aboard the USS Yorktown (CG 48). He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan.

Hang Ma, Ph.D.

Associate Professor, Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences — University of Rhode Island College of Pharmacy

Spice to Skin: Hydroxy-α-Sanshool as a Novel Neurocosmetics Active

Hydroxy-α-sanshool (HAS), a sensory amide derived from the edible Sichuan peppercorn (Zanthoxylum bungeanum), represents a new class of food-derived active ingredients for neurocosmetic applications. Known for its characteristic tingling sensation, HAS interacts with skin-neuron interfaces, positioning it as a functional modulator of cutaneous sensory pathways.

This study investigates the skin-protective potential of HAS using integrated cellular and proteomics approaches. HAS reduces oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in human keratinocyte models. Mechanistically, tandem mass tag (TMT)-based proteomics revealed that HAS regulates more than 500 pathways, with key upstream nodes centered on PPARD and NFE2L2, supporting coordinated control of lipid metabolism and antioxidant defense. These findings establish a dual lipid-redox regulatory mechanism underlying HAS’s cytoprotective effects and highlight its potential as a neurocosmetic active that bridges food-derived bioactives with mechanistically driven skin health solutions.

Hang Ma, Ph.D., is an Associate Professor in the Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Rhode Island College of Pharmacy. He leads the Research Unit for Nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications (RUNCA) and directs the Bioactive Botanical Research Laboratory, where his team focuses on translating natural products from medicinal botanicals into functional ingredients for skincare and health applications. With more than 20 years of research experience in natural product chemistry, Dr. Ma has authored more than 120 peer-reviewed publications and developed patented botanical technologies for cosmetic use. His research integrates multi-omics, AI-assisted target discovery, and mechanistic biology to support next-generation actives, including emerging areas such as neurocosmetics and skin-brain interactions. Dr. Ma is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and serves on the NYSCC Scientific Committee.

Jinseob Shin

Vice President, Americas Research & Innovation — AMOREPACIFIC North America

Split-Face Microneedling Study of a Barrier-Strengthening Formula

Skin barrier disruption following dermatological procedures can increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema, roughness, and irritation. This randomized, double-blind, split-face study evaluated a barrier-strengthening formula containing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids — including long-chain and linker ceramides designed to support barrier recovery.

Thirty participants aged 22 to 60 applied the formula to one side of the face and a vehicle formulation to the other side twice daily for four weeks following microneedling. The vehicle used the same base but excluded the lipid complex. TEWL, erythema, roughness, and participant-perceived skin recovery were assessed through week four. Both formulations significantly reduced TEWL and erythema versus post-microneedling levels. The barrier-strengthening formula showed high participant satisfaction, with 93% reporting improved skin hydration and 90% reporting reduced erythema. These findings suggest that formulations containing long-chain and linker ceramides may support post-procedure barrier recovery, visible calming, and texture improvement.

Jinseob Shin is Vice President of Americas Research & Innovation at AMOREPACIFIC North America, where he leads Scientific Valorization, Consumer Research, Regulatory Affairs, and Open Innovation across the Americas. With nearly two decades of experience in K-Beauty skincare science and innovation, he translates scientific insights into consumer-relevant technologies and product strategies. Previously, he served as Chief Researcher at AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center in Korea and as General Manager of a luxury skincare brand within AMOREPACIFIC, gaining cross-functional experience across R&I, brand strategy, consumer engagement, and market execution. His research and publications span transdermal delivery, high-performance skincare formulations, and functional ingredients. Jinseob is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, serves on the NYSCC Scientific Committee, and chairs the U.S. Council of the Korea Cosmetics Association.

Yun Shao, Ph.D.

Senior Vice President, Research & Development — Kobo Products Inc.

Formulating Zinc Oxide Sunscreens for Performance and Inclusivity

Zinc oxide (ZnO) is a widely used inorganic UV filter providing broad-spectrum, photostable protection with low irritation potential. Its effectiveness stems from strong UV attenuation across both UVA and UVB regions. This presentation highlights key formulation principles for delivering high-SPF, aesthetically acceptable, and inclusive ZnO-based sunscreens.

The intrinsic UV attenuation of ZnO is strongly dependent on particle size. The relationship between particle size, use level, and efficacy across UVB and UVA regions will be discussed in detail. Given the relatively lower SPF efficiency of ZnO compared to some organic filters, effective formulation strategies are required to achieve high SPF and broad-spectrum performance. Approaches such as the use of film formers, SPF boosters, and combinations with organic UV filters are commonly employed to enhance efficacy.

Designing for diverse skin tones introduces additional challenges due to ZnO’s inherent opacity. Strategies including optimized dispersion and the use of tinting agents can reduce white cast while maintaining photoprotection.

Yun Shao, Ph.D., joined Kobo Products Inc. in 1996 and currently serves as Senior Vice President of Research & Development. With more than 25 years of experience, he is a recognized expert in inorganic sunscreen technology, nano titanium dioxide and zinc oxide development, pigment surface treatment, dispersion technology, specialty cosmetic ingredients, color cosmetics, and global cosmetic ingredient regulations. Dr. Shao has presented his research at prestigious scientific conferences including the IFSCC Congress, the SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, and the FLSCC Sunscreen Symposium. He holds nine patents related to surface treatment and inorganic sunscreens and has co-authored multiple book chapters and technical papers. He earned his Ph.D. in Polymer Chemistry from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute and a B.S. in Applied Chemistry from the University of Science and Technology of China. Dr. Shao is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and currently serves as Chair of the NYSCC Scientific Committee. He is also a founding and board member of the Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association.