Beauty That Speaks to the Brain: Inside Neurocosmetics

Beauty That Speaks to the Brain: Inside Neurocosmetics
Author: Chandra Ade-Browne, Ph.D., Gattefosse

Let’s just admit it–whether you are a cosmetic scientist, skin care enthusiast, or somewhere in between, you’re a beauty nerd and you came here to get nerdier. (Don’t worry you’re not alone. I’ve been a card-carrying member since I learned what salicylic acid was after getting my first pimple in the 7th grade).

And as a beauty nerd, you already know how important the sensory aspect is in enticing the consumer, communicating efficacy, and creating a lasting impression that makes people want to not just buy once but become loyal customers. We engage with the world through our senses and that information is integrated into a distinct message of attraction or repulsion.

Product innovation is evolving beyond sensory experiences, with some now aiming to induce mood shifts through biochemical mechanisms as well as psychological ones.

This hybrid goal is “neurocosmetics”. When you read this article, you will learn the following:

• Sensory function of the skin
• Neurocosmetics–what it is and featured active ingredients
• Frontiers for exploration

Neuroscience of the Skin

The human nervous system is comprised of the central nervous system (CNS), the brain and spinal cord, and the peripheral nervous system (PNS), quite simply, everything else. The PNS is a network of nerve endings that radiate out from the CNS and branch throughout the rest of the body, including the skin. As the barrier to the outside world, the skin is both a protective and sensory organ.

The three layers of the skin (epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous layer) are densely innervated with dermal myelinated nerve fibers that respond to touch and unmyelinated C-fibers that respond to temperature changes (cold and hot), destruction (pain) and tickling (itch)¹. C-fibers have contact and maintain cross-talk with other skin cells such as keratinocytes, Langerhans cells, mast cells and inflammatory cells¹. Thus, the skin links the sensory and immune system in the neuro-immuno-cutaneous (NIC) system,^2,3 which is both afferent, carrying information towards the brain, and efferent, carrying information away from the brain (source). The interaction between C-fibers and adjacent skin cells plays a role in tissue maintenance and immune modulation⁴. There is also cell-to-cell signaling in the NIC system via neurotransmitters/neuropeptides, cytokines, and growth factors binding to the sensory receptors².

 

Source: https://www.albert.io/blog/afferent-vs-efferent-whats-the-difference-ap-psychology-crash-course-review/

Sensory receptors are proteins located on the surface of these nerve fibers while neuroreceptors can be on nerve fiber ending or non-neuronal skin cells like keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, and immune cells⁵. Considering the sensory receptors, there are four relevance types in the skin that detect and transmit internal or external stimuli⁶:

 

1. Mechanoreceptors detect mechanical stimuli such as pressure, vibrations, and texture
2. Thermoreceptors detect changes in temperature
3. Pain receptors (nociceptors) detect tissue injury or destruction and trigger the perception of pain
4. Chemoreceptors respond to chemical stimuli that attune our sense of taste and smell

Similarly, there are four relevant types of neuroreceptors in the skin that respond to neurotransmitters, neuromodulators, or signaling molecules thereby modulating communication between nerves and cells. Of the 200 different types of neurotransmitters, 25 have been identified in the skin and act on the following receptors⁷:

1. Opioid receptors alleviate pain/itch and promote a soothing sensation
2. Adrenergic receptors respond to stress hormones and influence pigmentation and inflammation
3. Serotonin & dopamine receptors regulate mood-skin interactions, melanin production, and barrier function
4. Bitter taste receptors detect bitter compounds and initiate the body’s defense mechanism
5. TRP channels (also act as sensory receptors) detect changes in temperature and chemical stimuli

 

Neurocosmetic Active Ingredients

The sophisticated sensory communication within the NIC system makes it an appealing domain for improving skin health, and jointly, an overall sense of well-being⁸. This two-pronged aim is married in the term “neurocosmetics.” The origin of the term is often credited to Dr. Laurent Misery who described the category as the ability to modulate the function of the NIC system³. Fundamentally, neurocosmetic products utilize ingredients that mimic the structure of the naturally occurring neurotransmitters. They either directly bind to skin nerve endings and modulate the release of neurotransmitters or indirectly adjust the function of non-nervous cells by acting as neurotransmitter modulators or agonists/antagonists of neuropeptide receptors⁵.

A classic example of a neurocosmetic ingredient is menthol. It is the primary active compound found in peppermint oil with proven antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and analgesic properties. It activates the TRP-8 receptors and causes a cooling sensation. Eucalyptol and icilin target the same receptor and produce a similar and enhanced cooling sensation, respectively. In contrast, a warming sensation or increased vasodilation can also be induced with ingredients like capsaicin and Vanillyl Butyl Ether (VBE). Capsaicin, naturally found in chili peppers as secondary metabolite, activates the TRPV1 ion channel and results in a dosed warming to burning sensation. VBE is more temperate in its effect while activating the same receptor.

The µ-opioid receptor is also another target for neurocosmetic ingredients, like phytoendrophins in chaste tree (vitex agnus-castus) berries, Rhodiola rosea extract, or Tephrosia Purpurea

seed extract which promotes the β-endorphins in the body resulting in the improvement of the appearance of the skin. In another example the 11β-HSD1 enzyme is reversibly inhibited to rebalance cortisol levels, while improving skin attributes like elasticity, density, and barrier strength⁷.

Recently, attention has been turned to the bitter taste receptors in the skin. Similar to how bitter compounds are detected by sense of taste, the bitter taste receptors in the epidermis belong to the taste 2 family (TAS2R) of G-protein coupled receptors TAS2R50⁹.

A study by Walzel and colleagues showed that this protein is significantly reduced in the atopic skin condition and levels were restored along with the improvement of barrier function and reduction of skin sensitivity with a bittersweet complex⁹.

More recent developments in the field appear in the patent literature including:

• KR102808656B1 (2025, South Korea) – An extract of the flower of Osmanthus annuus with enhanced chlorogenic acid was reported to have alpha wave activation and skin whitening (inhibition of melanin production)
• CN119732854A (2024, China) – An extremolyte, ectoin, was reported to promote endorphins, relieve pain/itching, promote skin barrier repair, skin wound healing, and skin regeneration
• EP4389136A1 (2022, Europe) – A combination of coconut and Alpine skullcap and optionally an extract of Eperua falcata bark were reported to limit the negative effects of chronic and acute stress on the skin while simultaneously generating endorphins and results and providing a feeling of well-being

Closing Remarks

Neurocosmetics products are the merging of mind and body and their increased popularity points to the more holistic view of beauty care in the market.  While, it may be muddled ground for claim language and regulatory navigation, it is a ripe area for innovation and opportunity to cater to the consumer appetite for holistic care.

If you made it to the end of the article, congratulations on becoming one level nerdier, you beauty nerd you!

Here’s some quick facts you can impress your friends with:

• The skin has millions of neuroreceptors.
• The skin can “taste” because of the presence of bitter taste receptors
• The brain, skin, and immune system are integrated and have cross-talk along each vector

 

 

About the Author

Dr. Chandra Adeola Ade-Browne, Ph.D.

Dr. Chandra obtained her Master’s and Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Science with a concentration in Cosmetic Science from the University of Cincinnati James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy. She is currently a Technical Account Manager at Gattefossé, managing the Northeast region (New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Pennsylvania). With a career spanning leading companies such as P&G, Unilever, and L’Oréal, Dr. Ade-Browne brings deep expertise in R&D, product innovation, research, claims testing, and strategic partnerships. Passionate about bridging science, business, and people, she has published peer-reviewed research, led cross-functional initiatives, and continued to collaborate with industry leaders to drive innovation in the beauty and personal care space.

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References

1. Ständer, Sonja, and Thomas A. Luger. “Neuroreceptors and Neuromediators.” Pruritus, edited by Laurent Misery and Sonja Ständer, Springer, 2010, pp. 7–15. Springer, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-84882-322-8_2
2. Yucha, Vidal S. E., Tamamoto, K. A., and Kaplan, D. L. “The Importance of the Neuro–Immuno–Cutaneous System on Human Skin Equivalent Design.” Cell Proliferation, vol. 52, no. 6, 2019, article e12677. PubMed Central, PMC6869210.
3. Misery, L. “Les nerfs à fleur de peau.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 24, no. 2, Apr. 2002, pp. 111-116. Wiley, https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00134.x
4. Schmelz, Martin. “Neuronal Sensitivity of the Skin.” European Journal of Dermatology, vol. 21, Suppl. 2, May 2011, pp. 43–47. doi:10.1684/ejd.2011.1265.
5. Kostic, Antonia, and Giorgio Dell’Acqua. “Neurocosmetics: Beauty and the Brain.” Personal Care Magazine, 15 Nov. 2023, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/43209/neurocosmetics-beauty-and-the-brain
6. Dobos, K. (2024). Beauty and the brain: How the nervous system shapes neurocosmetic innovations. HPC Today.
7. Rizzi, Vito, Jennifer Gubitosa, Paola Fini, and Pinalysa Cosma. “Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation.” Cosmetics, vol. 8, no. 3, 2021, article 66, doi:10.3390/cosmetics8030066.
8. Haykal, Diala, Enzo Berardesca, Kenji Kabashima, and Brigitte Dréno. “Beyond Beauty: Neurocosmetics, the Skin-Brain Axis, and the Future of Emotionally Intelligent Skincare.” Clinics in Dermatology, vol. 43, no. 4, 2025, pp. 523–527. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2025.05.002.
9. Walzel, Bernd, Anja Herrmann, Ulrike Bätz, Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shah, and Stefan Bänziger. “Bitter Taste Receptors in Skin – Novel Cosmetic Targets.” Personal Care, April 2023, www.lipoid-kosmetik.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Personal-Care_April_2023_Amaretine-1.pdf