From Stress to Strength: The Science and Promise of Plants-Based Adaptogens in Skin Protection
Hang Ma, Ph.D.
Bioactive Botanical Research Laboratory, Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, College of Pharmacy, The University of Rhode Island
Did you know that Rhodiola rosea thrives in the icy Tibetan Plateau, enduring freezing temperatures and high UV radiation—and still manages to bloom? Or that Gotu kola, a swamp-dwelling herb revered in Ayurvedic medicine, accelerates wound healing and stimulates collagen synthesis in the skin?
These aren’t just botanical trivia. These are adaptogenic plants—nature’s survivalists that are now capturing the attention of cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, and formulators for their stress-defying, skin-supportive abilities.
As consumer awareness deepens around holistic wellness, skin resilience, and stress-induced aging, adaptogens have emerged as one of the most promising classes of multifunctional botanical actives. Their roots lie in ancient medicine, but their mechanisms are now being uncovered through modern science—and they could be game-changers in next-generation skincare.
Adaptogens: A Natural Response to Modern Skin Stress
Coined in the 1940s, the term “adaptogen” describes substances that increase the body’s non-specific resistance to stress while normalizing physiological functions [1]. Further developed by Dr. Israel Brekhman, adaptogens must meet three criteria [2]:
- Be non-toxic at normal doses
- Help the body resist a broad range of stressors
- Exhibit normalizing effects regardless of the direction of change
While traditionally used in Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine, and other folk medicine, adaptogens are now entering the cosmeceutical arena. From calming inflammation to protecting against environmental stressors, their relevance in skincare is only growing—particularly as urban living, blue light exposure, and psychological stress take a toll on skin health. Adaptogenic plants are not random botanicals with marketing buzz—they share distinct biochemical traits that equip them to survive in extreme conditions. These properties also translate into skin-relevant benefits when properly extracted and formulated.
Common Chemical Classes in Adaptogenic Extracts [3]:
- Polyphenols: Flavonoids such as quercetin from onion that provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions
- Triterpenoids / Saponins: Found in ginseng and Gotu kola (Centella asiatica); support collagen synthesis and barrier repair
- Lignans: Compounds like secoisolariciresinol (from flaxseeds) help modulate cellular response to oxidative stress
- Withanolides: Steroidal lactones from Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) with cortisol-lowering and anti-inflammatory activity
- Adaptogenic polysaccharides: Immunomodulatory and hydrating (e.g., from mushrooms and roots)
These phytochemicals often act in synergistic complexes, rather than in isolation, making whole-plant extracts or standardized fractions more valuable than isolated actives in some formulations.
Mechanisms of Action: How Adaptogens Work in the Skin
What makes adaptogens exciting from a formulation standpoint is their multi-pathway activity. Unlike single-function actives, adaptogens contribute to skin resilience through various mechanisms [3, 4]:
Stress Mitigation: Some adaptogens (like Ashwagandha) help reduce skin damage from cortisol spikes, which are linked to barrier dysfunction, inflammation, and premature aging. This aligns with a growing focus on neurocosmetics—products that target the brain-skin axis [5].
Barrier Repair and Hydration: Triterpenoids in Gotu kola and saponins in ginseng support the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, while also tightening intercellular junctions to reduce transepidermal water loss [6].
Antioxidant and Anti-Pollution: Adaptogens protect skin cells from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV, infrared, and pollution. Rhodiola has been shown to increase cellular oxygenation, a key factor in maintaining energy metabolism and healthy skin tone. [7].
Anti-Inflammatory Activity: By modulating inflammatory cytokines (e.g., TNF-α, IL-6), adaptogens help calm sensitive and reactive skin, making them ideal for post-procedure, acne-prone, or rosacea-like conditions [8].
Clinically Proven Botanicals: Adaptogens for Photoaged Skin: Although very few clinical studies are available, some early evidence suggests a clinical effect of an adaptogen formulation on skin aging. A 12-week clinical study tested a new serum made with plant-based adaptogens to see how well it could improve visible signs of aging in the skin [9]. The trial included 53 adults aged 45–65 with varying skin tones and levels of sun damage. The serum, called MYS, featured a unique blend of adaptogens—including ginseng, turmeric, magnolia bark, and echinacea—along with skin-friendly antioxidants, hydrators like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, and moisture-boosting squalane. Used twice a day alongside a basic skincare routine, the serum delivered impressive results by Week 12. Participants saw visible reduction in redness, dullness, pore size, and uneven pigmentation, along with a 38% decrease in oiliness and a 39% overall boost in skin quality. Nearly all participants felt more confident, and many said they used less makeup after the study. Additionally, preclinical experiments also showed that the serum helped activate genes linked to the skin’s natural stress defenses, such as suggesting it supports skin resilience at a deeper, molecular level. Overall, the study highlights adaptogens as clinically backed, multitasking ingredients with real potential in future skincare products.
Furthermore, a follow up study showed how MYS helps skin respond to stress and maintain balance [8]. Using lab-grown human skin, researchers found that the serum boosted key genes that protect against UV damage, support the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and slow signs of aging. One antioxidant gene increased by nearly 300%, while a gene linked to cell aging dropped significantly—showing the serum’s potential to strengthen skin at a cellular level. The results suggest that adaptogens may offer a powerful, natural way to support healthier, more resilient skin.
Limitations and Future Directions
Despite their growing popularity, adaptogens face several challenges in skincare formulation. One major hurdle is standardization—variation in plant species, harvesting times, and extraction methods often result in inconsistent active compounds, making efficacy hard to guarantee [10]. Also, being adaptogens historically used in traditional medicine, i.e. in the supplement industry, their solubility in cosmetic formulation is not optimized and further extraction of the raw botanicals is often needed, causing a shortage of these ingredients in the supply chain for topical products. Additionally, the dosage and delivery methods for topical applications remain under-researched, with many formulations lacking evidence-based concentrations. As discussed early, most current research stems from in vitro studies or oral supplementation, limiting our understanding of how adaptogens behave when applied directly to the skin. There’s also regulatory ambiguity, as adaptogens lack formal classification or dosage guidelines within cosmetic frameworks, complicating compliance and marketing claims.
That said, the field is ripe with opportunity. Clinical trials specifically designed to evaluate topical adaptogens on inflammation, pigmentation, barrier repair, and wrinkle reduction are greatly needed to validate efficacy. Another promising avenue is exploring their influence on the skin microbiome, as emerging data suggests they may help maintain microbial balance and resilience. The intersection of adaptogens and neurocosmetics—targeting stress-induced skin issues through the skin-brain axis—is an exciting frontier. Finally, biotechnological innovations, such as precision fermentation and plant cell culture, offer sustainable and scalable methods to produce consistent, high-purity adaptogenic compounds for next-generation skincare products.
Conclusion: Adaptogens as Next-Gen Actives
In a world where both consumers and skin are under constant stress, adaptogens offer a science-backed, holistic, and highly marketable approach to skincare. For formulators and product developers, they represent a bridge between traditional wisdom and cutting-edge cosmeceuticals—with applications ranging from anti-aging and hydration to barrier support and anti-pollution. As science advances and standardization improves, adaptogens are poised to become cornerstone actives in future skincare innovations—not just as “trendy” botanicals, but as powerful tools for building truly resilient skin.
References
- Todorova, Velislava, et al. “Plant adaptogens—History and future perspectives.” Nutrients 13.8 (2021): 2861.
- Panossian, Alexander, G. Wikman, and H. Wagner. “Plant adaptogens III. Earlier and more recent aspects and concepts on their mode of action.” Phytomedicine 6.4 (1999): 287-300.
- Esmaealzadeh, Niusha, et al. “A literature review of the studies concerning selected plant-derived adaptogens and their general function in body with a focus on animal studies.” Phytomedicine 105 (2022): 154354.
- Panossian, Alexander. “Understanding adaptogenic activity: specificity of the pharmacological action of adaptogens and other phytochemicals.” Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences 1401.1 (2017): 49-64.
- Cavagnino, Andrea, et al. “Adaptogen Technology for Skin Resilience Benefits.” Cosmetics 10.6 (2023): 155.
- Witkowska, Katarzyna, et al. “Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights into Mechanisms and Clinical Efficacy.” Pharmaceutics 16.10 (2024): 1252.
- Liu, Xiao-Xing, et al. “Bibliometric study of adaptogens in dermatology: pharmacophylogeny, phytochemistry, and pharmacological mechanisms.” Drug Design, Development and Therapy (2023): 341-361.
- Draelos, Zoe Diana, et al. “Gene Expression Analysis of a Topical Serum Comprised of Plant-based Adaptogens Developed to Support Homeostasis and Skin Quality.” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 17.2 (2024): 43.
- Draelos, Zoe Diana, et al. “A Multi-center Trial Evaluating a Serum Comprised of Plant-based Adaptogens Targeting Skin Quality.” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 17.2 (2024): 15.
- Pawar, Vinod S., and Hugar Shivakumar. “A current status of adaptogens: natural remedy to stress.” Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Disease 2 (2012): S480-S490.
About the Author
Hang Ma, Ph.D., is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the College of Pharmacy of the University of Rhode Island (URI). Dr. Ma is the Head of the Research Unit for Nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications (RUNCA) at URI. Dr. Ma has over 20 years of research experience in natural product chemistry. His group, the Bioactive Botanical Research Laboratory at URI, studies the phytochemical and biological investigations of natural products from medicinal plants and functional foods for their nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. Dr. Ma is the author of over 110 original peer-reviewed research articles and the inventor of an international patent on novel botanical extracts for cosmetics. Dr. Ma holds his Master’s and Doctoral in Pharmaceutical Sciences from URI. Dr. Ma’s membership includes the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association. He is also a member of the NYSCC Scientific Committee.
