Synthetic Biology: The Enabler for Breakthrough in the World of Cosmetics

Synthetic Biology: The Enabler for Breakthrough in the World of Cosmetics

A Review and Update

Anne Mu, Evonik Corporation

The growing adoption of synthetic biology in the cosmetics industry today marks a transformative shift towards innovation and sustainability, driven by consumer demand for clean beauty and high-performance bioengineered molecules. Research shows that 64% of consumers prefer organic or sustainable ingredients,¹ prompting brands to explore synthetic biology as an alternative production platform. Additionally, regulatory bodies like China’s NMPA and EFSA and SCCS in the EU are supportive of synthetic biology-derived novel cosmetic ingredients (NCIs), offering streamlined approval processes such as NMN notifications.²

Synthetic biology is fundamentally redefining the rules of biology by treating life as a “programmable” system as never before. It transcends traditional boundaries by integrating principles from engineering, biotechnology, and life sciences to design and construct functional compounds from optimized biological systems.³ Unlike traditional genetic engineering, synthetic biology places a greater emphasis on modularity, standardization, and predictability—enabling more scalable and reproducible solutions for cosmetic innovation.

Synthetic Biology in Action: Recombinant Collagens

A recent example of the iterative effects resulting from the combined “technological push” and “market pull” in synthetic biology is the development of recombinant collagens.

Collagen, a structural protein that constitutes up to 70% of the skin’s dry mass, forms fibers that create the skin’s mechanical scaffold (matrix) and other connective tissues. As a vital biological substance in the skin, collagen is widely used in cosmetics to support skin elasticity and reduce signs of aging.

British researchers have measured forearm skin collagen content, dermal thickness, and collagen density in a large cohort of subjects. Their data reveals that skin collagen decreases by approximately 1% per year.⁴   Similarly, ex vivo research by Evonik using immunofluorescence staining of type III collagen in skin explants from 24- and 56-year-old donors revealed significantly lower collagen-stained surfaces in older skin. This corroborates the finding that type III collagen constitutes about 50% of fetal skin but less than 20% of adult skin. Additionally, the relative ratio of collagen types I and III has been found to be altered in photo-aged skin compared to sun-protected skin.⁵

Despite its importance, the collagen used in most cosmetic products is still primarily animal derived. While type I collagen is widely available, other forms—such as type III—are present in lower quantities, making extraction and purification both costly and inefficient. Animal derived sourcing also raises environmental concerns such as deforestation and overfishing, as well as safety potential such as pathogen and disease transmission that can trigger immunogenic or allergic reactions-especially in consumers with sensitive skin. Even hydrolyzed forms, while less allergenic, may still pose risks for people with severe pork allergies.⁶ Moreover, ethical, religious, and societal factors affect consumer acceptance, and batch-to-batch variability presents ongoing quality control challenges.

In recent decades, considerable efforts have been put into the production of recombinant collagen, driven by rapid advancements in genetic engineering technology. Recombinant collagen molecules of varying sizes have been expressed across all major expression platforms. While high-quality full-length collagen proteins have been produced in eukaryotic hosts, their productivity remains limited. Prokaryotic hosts, although more scalable, often yield short fragments or proteins with sequences that differ from native human collagen.⁷

Modern synthetic biology has paved the way for the sustainable production of revolutionary vegan collagen via precision fermentation to meet the market demand for ethical consumerism. One notable example is a 50 kDa polypeptide identical to a segment of the human collagen type III α-1 chain. This bioidentical molecule can be produced on an industrial scale with high process efficiency, reproducibility, and sustainability. Clinically, it demonstrates efficacy at remarkably low dosages—as low as 60 ppm—while meeting the growing consumer demand for clean, ethical, and effective cosmetic ingredients.⁸

Fig. 1. Example of collagen manufacturing process based on synthetic biology.

It has been scientifically validated that this collagen polypeptide, produced through synthetic biology, is activated by skin microbiome. It can penetrate into the stratum corneum with its full chain length, triggering exosome-mediated intracellular communication and epigenetically regulated microRNA expression. This dual-action pathway enhances the skin’s regenerative processes and supports clinically relevant anti-aging effects. These collagen polypeptides can be utilized for anti-aging treatments as well as for pre- and post-aesthetic procedure care.⁸

Fig. 2.: Mode of actions for a collagen polypeptide made via synthetic biology.

Operationalizing Synthetic Biology in Cosmetics

To establish expertise in synthetic biology, it is essential to develop capabilities in an integrative manner. A well-structured development loop begins with broad access to knowledge and resources related to microorganisms and gene databases. This foundational understanding facilitates hypothesis-driven design and the creation of production strains, which lay the groundwork for design and modeling efforts-such as metabolic modeling, kinetics, process strategies, predictive models, and plant concepts.

The next stage involves feasibility reviews, followed by pilot scale implementation, with thorough evaluation and quantification under industrial conditions. Finally, the application phase involves production in globally scaled facilities, where production data is analyzed and reviewed to extract insights and learnings. This feedback loop drives continuous improvement and deepens expertise in synthetic biology.⁸

Fig. 3. Synthetic biology Core Competencies Development

Future Trends in Synthetic Biology

What does the future hold for us? Based on the latest trends and breakthroughs anticipated for , the most impactful advancements in synthetic biology include:

Refinements in CRISPR Technology:

CRISPR technology is revolutionizing synthetic biology and its application in skin and hair care. It enables the sustainable production of cosmetic ingredients such as palm-free surfactants.⁹ Novel compounds, like CRISPR-designed citrus fragrance mimics grapefruit peel, can be generated sustainably.¹⁰ For personalized beauty trends, CRISPR can be tailored to individual microbiomes in order to modify skin microbiota balance pH and reduce inflammation.¹¹ CRISPR technology due to its precision and scalability, are ushering in a new era of greener, higher performance skin care through synthetic biology.

AI-Accelerated Enzyme Design:

Companies are increasingly adopting AI to perform metabolic pathway optimizations, significantly reducing trial-and-error time.¹² Notable examples relevant to the cosmetic industry include C16 Biosciences, which has utilized AI to design lipases that convert plant sugars into palm-free surfactants.

Automated DNA/mRNA Synthesis:

New platforms now enable in-house gene construction in less than a day, compared to the previous two weeks required for outsourced processes.¹³ A recent example is Evonik’s automated lipid nanoparticle (LPN) encapsulation, which uses mRNA to stabilize LNPs.

Achieving Greater Scalability:

While synthetic biology offers remarkable innovation potential, cost and scalability remain challenges. Strategic partnerships are emerging as a solution. One example is the collaboration between L’Oréal and Debut Biotech, aimed at advancing biomanufacturing capabilities for active ingredients on an industrial scale.¹⁴

Next-Generation Tools:

The development of next-generation tools can significantly enhance the speed and precision of development while addressing existing gaps. Cell-free systems show promises for enabling on-demand mRNA production for personalized cosmetics. Meanwhile, advanced digital models are in development for biological pathways simulation, enhancing product design and verification.

Together, these advancements will shape the future landscape of synthetic biology in cosmetics, driving innovation and meeting consumer demands for sustainable and effective beauty products.

 

References:

1. Synthetic Biology and sustainable cosmetics, Biotech Connection Singapore, Oct 16, 2023, Zara Chung.
2. China’s cosmetic industry embraces synthetic biology: bioengineered new cosmetic ingredients rise with growing green beauty demand, ZMUNI.com, 2024-10-17.
3. Synthetic biology: from “build-for-use” to commercialization, Chinese Journal of Biotechnology, Nov. 25, 2022, 38(11): 4001-4011, Guoping Zhao.
4. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density, British Journal of Dermatology, Volume 93, Issue 6, 1 December 1975, Pages 639–643, S. Shuster, et al.
5. Water and Protein Structure in Photoaged and Chronically Aged Skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Volume 111, Issue 6, December 1998, Pages 1129-1133, M. Gniadecka et al.
6. Collagen contraindications and side effects – who should not take collagen? natu.care, Ludwik Jelonek.
7. Cosmetic potential of a recombinant 50 kDa protein, N. Aly et al, Cosmetics MDPI, 2022, 1.
8. Biotech in Beauty, how Precision Fermentation is re-defining Skincare with Vegan & Skin-identical collagen, A. Mu et al, In-Cosmetics Global, Apr 10^th, 2025.
9. Crispr can help the switch to sustainable cosmetics, labiotech.eu, June 21, 2022.
10. Explore the TOP10 synthetic biology trends in 2025, startus-insights.com, Adarsh R., Feb 13, 2025.
11. Gene editing in dermatology: harnessing CRISPR for the treatment of cutaneous disease, C. Baker, M. S. Hayden, F1000Research, Oct 07, 2020
12. Synbiobeta 2025: key industry trends and challenges in synthetic biology, biocatalysts.com, May 9, 2025
13. Driving synthetic biology forward through adoption of technology enabling rapid DNA and mRNA synthesis, Medcitynews.com, Eric Esser, May 16, 2025
14. Automated production technologies for mRNA-based drugs, izi.fraunhofer.de.

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Anne Mu
Global Head of Applied Innovation BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients PL, Business Line Care Solutions, Evonik Nutrition & Care

Anne holds a B. Eng. of Food Science and Engineering from Zhejiang University of Science and Technology in China, and a M.Sc. in Biochemical Engineering from the University of Birmingham, UK. After 1 year of academic research at the University of Birmingham, she worked for Rhodia-Solvay for 8 years, gained experiences from scouting phase of product innovation to production management in manufacturing plants. Then with Evonik in the recent 13 years, she took technical leadership roles both in Asia and in North America, before her current role globally for the BioActives, supporting Evonik business in the beauty industry, and creating more values from technical standpoint for Evonik products.