Next-Generation Sunscreens Event

Next-Generation Sunscreens: Innovation in UV Filters, Testing Methodologies, and Photoprotection
Eduardo Ruvolo, PhD
Head of Clinical and Scientific Affairs, Beiersdorf Inc. | Symposium Chair

Tuesday, September 8th
9:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Pleasantdale Château, 757 Eagle Rock Ave, West Orange, NJ 07052

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This symposium will explore the next generation of sunscreen innovation, highlighting advances in UV filter technology, new and evolving SPF testing methodologies, and broader approaches to photoprotection. Topics will include new ISO-based methods, formulation opportunities with newly approved UV filters such as Bemotrizinol, challenges and opportunities with inorganic sunscreens, and the growing need for extended protection beyond traditional UVB and UVA claims, including visible light. The program will bring together scientific and industry experts to discuss how innovation in testing, formulation, and protection strategies is shaping the future of sun care.

Featured Speakers & Topics:

• Brian Ecclefield (NYSCC): What in the World is Going on with SPF Testing Anyway?
• Curt Cole (Sun&Skin Consultant): The New ISO Test Methods: How can I use them?
• Eduardo Ruvolo (Beiersdorf): Beyond UV: Redefining Photoprotection Across the Solar Spectrum
• Brian Bodnar (L’Oreal): The Untold Story of Sunscreen Efficacy: Designing a Sunscreen You Want to Wear
• Carl D’Ruiz (DSM): The PARSOL® Shield Journey: Unlocking the Next Era of Photoprotection Innovation for American Consumers
• Luciana Uttembergue (DSM): Bemotrizinol (BEMT) in the U.S.: Formulation Strategies, Combinations, and Innovation Opportunities
• Diane K. Tom (BASF): Maximized Protection: Your Roadmap for Sunscreen Optimization
• Chris Boone (Evercare): Formulating with Inorganic Sunscreens

EVENT SCHEDULE

Morning Session

9:00 – 9:55 AM
Registration & Breakfast

10:00 AM – 12:00 PM
10:00 – 10:30 → Brian Ecclefield
10:30 – 11:00 → Curtis Cole
11:00 – 11:30 → Eduardo Ruvolo
11:30 – 12:00 → Brian Bodnar

Lunch Break

12:00 – 1:00 PM
Networking Lunch

Afternoon Session

1:00 – 3:00 PM
1:00 – 1:30 → Carl D’Ruiz
1:30 – 2:00 → Luciana Uttembergue D’Elia
2:00 – 2:30 → Diane K. Tom
2:30 – 3:00 → Chris Boone

Break

3:15 – 3:30 PM
Coffee Break

Closing Session

3:30 – 4:00 PM
Roundtable Discussion & Audience Q&A

Networking

4:00 – 6:00 PM
Cocktail Reception

SPEAKERS

Eduardo Ruvolo, PhD
Head of Clinical and Scientific Affairs, Beiersdorf Inc. | Symposium Chair
Beyond UV: Redefining Photoprotection Across the Solar Spectrum

For decades, sunscreen innovation has been driven primarily by the prevention of ultraviolet (UV) induced erythema and the achievement of higher SPF values. While these endpoints remain fundamental to reducing sunburn and skin cancer risk, advances in photobiology have demonstrated that the biological effects of sunlight extend well beyond the traditional UVB and UVA paradigm.

This presentation will explore how our understanding of solar radiation has evolved from a UV centric model toward a more comprehensive view of the entire solar spectrum. Evidence accumulated over the past two decades has shown that long wave UVA and visible light contribute to oxidative stress, persistent pigmentation, inflammation, and photoaging through biological mechanisms distinct from those associated with UVB induced DNA damage. These findings challenge the conventional definition of photoprotection and suggest that protecting skin health requires addressing multiple pathways of solar induced damage.

Recent international expert consensus on visible light photoprotection has further reinforced the clinical importance of visible light exposure, particularly for individuals prone to pigmentary disorders and skin of color. The consensus highlights the need to expand our approach to photoprotection beyond traditional SPF and UVA metrics by considering biological endpoints and protection strategies that address the broader effects of solar radiation.

Drawing on mechanistic research, clinical investigations, and emerging consensus recommendations, this presentation will review complementary approaches that extend beyond conventional UV filters, including antioxidants that reduce oxidative stress, ingredients that support the skin’s endogenous defense systems, and pigments such as iron oxides that mitigate visible light induced pigmentation. Together, these strategies represent a more comprehensive framework for protecting skin across the solar spectrum.

Finally, the presentation will discuss how these scientific advances may influence the future of sunscreen development, efficacy testing, and consumer communication. As photoprotection evolves from preventing sunburn to preserving overall skin health, the next generation of sunscreens will require products, test methods, and claims that better reflect the full biological impact of solar radiation.

Brian Ecclefield
Founder/CEO, Validated Claim Support
What in the World is Going on with SPF Testing Anyway?

This presentation will demonstrate real world SPF data and describe in layman’s terms how to get to the bottom of an In Vivo Clinical Report. We will review trends in data along with industry events over the last decade that have shaken up the industry, breaking both consumer and institutional trust. Rather than a basic introduction to SPF testing, this is a retelling of the story behind how the industry got to where it is now, and how we can do better together as a collective industry, assessing trends in mineral and inorganic filter concentrations, instances of clinical fraud and negligence, marketed products with “unlikely” SPF values, and best practices for working with third party clinical labs. The goal is to empower the industry to get more value out of clinical reports and partnerships, ensuring products are safer for consumers and as effective as they claim to be.

Brian Ecclefield is the founder/CEO of Validated Claim Support, a Clinical Research Laboratory (CRO) in Teaneck, NJ specializing in personal care and cosmetic research. He has spent the last 17 years working behind the scenes with products from brands both large and small. Prior to launching his own lab, Brian worked with two different CROs that later made international news headlines over cited ethical issues. He has served as an Expert Witness defending consumers against misleading product claims (particularly in the SPF field) and as an official whistleblower for improper lab practices. In his free time, Brian enjoys NYSCC educational and networking events and serves as Treasurer Elect of the chapter.

Curtis Cole, PhD
Principal, Sun & Skin Consulting, LLC
The New ISO Test Methods: How can I use them?

The development of new non-invasive validated ISO test methods for sunscreen testing enables new opportunities for research. While the U.S. currently does not recognize these new methods, nor any ISO method for sunscreen evaluations, these new methods can be very useful tools to gain insights into product behavior as well as consumer behavior, in ways that could not be evaluated with conventional SPF and UV-PF test methods. The advantages and disadvantages of each of these tests will be reviewed, as well as possible applications for their use beyond simple label claims.

Curtis Cole, PhD, is a globally recognized expert in sunscreen science, photobiology, and ultraviolet protection standards, with more than four decades of leadership across academic research, global Corporate R&D, and regulatory innovation. As Principal Member of Sun & Skin Consulting, LLC, he provides scientific and technical guidance to sunscreen manufacturers, clinical testing laboratories, and photoprotection researchers worldwide. Dr. Cole has served as a U.S. delegate to ISO TC217 WG7 since 2007 and was Project Leader for several cornerstone international standards, including ISO 24444:2019, ISO 24443:2012, and ISO 24442:2010. Inventor and developer of Polychromatic Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS), he has helped develop the newly published ISO 23698 HDRS SPF and UVA test method. Before consulting, Dr. Cole spent more than 27 years at Johnson & Johnson, ultimately serving as Vice President of Research & Development for the global skincare franchise, where his contributions included stabilized retinol technologies and the invention of Helioplex photostabilized sunscreens. Earlier in his career, he conducted foundational research at Temple University, publishing the first definitive ultraviolet action spectrum for squamous cell skin cancer induction. He has more than 70 scientific publications, 28 granted U.S. patents, and multiple industry honors, including two Johnson Medals and a Lifetime Achievement Award.

Brian Bodnar, PhD
Principal Scientist, Photoprotection Application Domain, L’Oréal USA
The Untold Story of Sunscreen Efficacy: Designing a Sunscreen You Want to Wear

Sunscreens only offer their advertised protection if they are applied correctly, which means that cosmetic elegance is just as important as UV protection when formulating sunscreens. This presentation highlights the critical role of cosmetic elegance in sun care formulation and explores modern strategies for characterizing and optimizing sunscreen aesthetics. We review the current state of the art in instrumental testing alongside core formulation principles that guide the development of optimal sensory properties. To demonstrate these methodologies in action, we present a case study of a new mineral sunscreen that overcomes the classic challenges of inorganic UV filters, delivering high photoprotective performance in a formula that is highly transparent and exceptionally pleasant to wear.

Brian Bodnar is a Principal Scientist leading the Photoprotection Application Domain at L’Oréal USA. Since joining the company in 2011, he has spent the last nine years leading the team toward advancing the fundamental science of sun care and driving cutting edge sunscreen innovations for the US and global markets. Brian’s diverse expertise spans liquid foundation formulation, designing customized automated chemistry solutions at Chemspeed Technologies, and developing novel materials at SiGNa Chemistry. He holds a BS from The College of New Jersey and earned his PhD in Organic Chemistry from the University of Notre Dame, where his doctoral research focused on the synthesis of mycobactin analogs and nitrosocarbonyl hetero Diels Alder chemistry.

Carl D’Ruiz
dsm-firmenich
The PARSOL® Shield Journey: Unlocking the Next Era of Photoprotection Innovation for American Consumers

FDA’s approval of PARSOL® Shield (Bemotrizinol, BEMT) as the third GRASE UV filter on the OTC Sunscreen Drug Monograph marks a defining moment for U.S. photoprotection science. As one of the world’s most trusted and extensively studied broad spectrum UV filters, its long awaited entry into the U.S. market reflects years of rigorous scientific validation, safety stewardship, and persistent regulatory engagement. This presentation will trace that journey, illuminating the toxicological, environmental, clinical, and formulation data that ultimately supported its acceptance.

By unpacking the key learnings behind this milestone, the session will show not only how BEMT achieved approval, but also why its pathway now serves as a template for future innovation. The depth and transparency of its safety dossier, the collaborative regulatory approach, and the scientific rigor of its performance evidence collectively establish a new benchmark for introducing next generation UV technologies in the United States.

This talk will highlight how BEMT empowers formulators to deliver stronger UVA coverage, enhanced photostability, improved daily wear aesthetics, and broader visible light protection. Most importantly, its availability opens the door for a more modern, flexible, and globally aligned photoprotection toolbox, setting the stage for U.S. consumers to benefit from the same level of innovation long available internationally.

Ultimately, the PARSOL® Shield journey demonstrates how science led advocacy and robust safety substantiation can accelerate the future of sun care innovation. Its success lays the foundation for advancing additional filters, modernizing sunscreen architecture, and enabling the next generation of protective solutions that American consumers increasingly expect and deserve.

Luciana Uttembergue D’Elia
Director of Technical & Marketing, Beauty & Care, North America, dsm-firmenich
Bemotrizinol (BEMT) in the U.S.: Formulation Strategies, Combinations, and Innovation Opportunities

The recent FDA approval of Bemotrizinol (PARSOL® Shield, BEMT) marks a historic milestone as the first new UV filter introduced in the U.S. in more than 25 years. Beyond regulatory progress, this innovation enables brands to meet growing consumer expectations for high performance sunscreens with lightweight, elegant textures and superior wearability. As formulators face increasing challenges in balancing efficacy, aesthetics, and inclusivity, PARSOL® Shield provides a powerful new tool to drive brand growth through next generation sun care innovation.

This presentation explores how formulators can leverage PARSOL® Shield to design advanced sun care systems that deliver both technical excellence and meaningful consumer benefits. We will discuss combinations with existing UV filters, strategies to optimize SPF and UVA performance, and formulation approaches that create lightweight, inclusive textures that encourage daily use and improve real world compliance.

Evidence demonstrates that PARSOL® Shield not only provides robust broad spectrum UV protection but also enhances the efficacy and photostability of other UV filters, enabling high performance formulations at optimized concentrations while maintaining desirable sensory properties.

Crucially, this approval represents more than a technical advancement, it is a confidence signal to both the industry and consumers. Supported by extensive global use, a strong safety profile, and modern regulatory standards, BEMT helps bridge the long standing innovation gap between the U.S. and global sunscreen markets, bringing proven technology to American consumers.

Ultimately, the arrival of BEMT has the potential to transform sunscreen from a compliance driven product into a desirable, high performance daily skincare essential. By enabling superior protection, elegant sensorial experiences, and new product formats, BEMT opens the door to stronger consumer trust, improved adoption of sun protection habits, and sustainable growth opportunities for brands in the evolving sun care category.

Luciana Uttembergue D’Elia is a Director of Technical & Marketing for dsm-firmenich Beauty & Care with 19 years of experience in the cosmetics and personal care industry. A Brazilian national, she holds an Executive MBA from INSPER, and dual degrees in Chemistry and Cosmetics Technology, and Pharmacy and Biochemistry. She has spent 14 years at dsm-firmenich, progressing from Technical Manager in Brazil to Senior Technical Manager leading the North American Regional Application Center, and since 2022 serving in a combined Technical & Marketing leadership role. Prior to dsm-firmenich, Luciana worked in R&D at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). She has extensive experience designing high performance sunscreen systems and was part of the team that brought PARSOL® Shield, the first new UV filter in over 25 years, to the US market.

Chris Boone
Evercare
Formulating with Inorganic Sunscreens

This presentation reviews the historical development of sun protection with a focus on the evolving role of zinc oxide in sunscreen formulations. Beginning with early human adaptation to ultraviolet (UV) exposure and ancient cosmetic practices, the discussion follows key scientific milestones including the discovery of UV radiation, its link to skin damage, and the emergence of regulated sunscreen actives in the 20th century. Zinc oxide, recognized in the 19th century as a skin protectant, became a critical sunscreen ingredient due to its broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection and favorable safety profile.

Advances in particle engineering, including micronization, enabled improved aesthetics and expanded consumer acceptance, leading to renewed interest in mineral sunscreens. Current trends driving zinc oxide use are reviewed. The presentation concludes with a forward looking perspective on formulation innovation and the future role of zinc oxide in global sun care markets.

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