Sunscreen Formulations: Misconceptions & Future Directions for Innovation
Event Details
Monday, June 3
8am – 6pm
Location:
Chart House
1700 Harbor Boulevard Weehawken, NJ 07086
Sponsorships for this popular event are still available!
Email suppliersday@nyscc.org or call 212.786.7468 for more information about how your organization or product can be featured with this key audience of influencers and decision makers!
Event Organizer:
Howard Epstein
howard.epstein@emdgroup.com
Speaker:
Jeroen van den Bosch, Managing Director, Uviva Technologies GmbH, Duisburg, Germany
Title:
Designing mineral-based sunscreens – a design strategy to create zinc oxide-based products that consumers want to use
Abstract:
Mineral sunscreens, in particular zinc oxide-based versions, have increased tremendously in popularity in recent years. This is partly a result of the US FDA’s classification of only TiO2 and ZnO as ‘GRAS’ filters, and of these two, only ZnO provides true broad spectrum protection. Zinc oxide-based sunscreens also fit into a more natural and safer sunscreen space that is finding its way into all types of SPF products.
Working with zinc oxide however, also poses several challenges; it is not always easy to formulate, is not a simply “drop-in” product and testing mineral-based sunscreens poses its own list of challenges. In addition, many mineral-based products on the market today are aesthetically non-pleasing, driving consumers to not use or reapply these products. In some cases, it is advised (e.g., by influencers) to apply lower amounts than advised to avoid a white cast, which brings along a myriad of health and safety concerns.
This presentation will give an overview of different elements that are key-success factors for developing well-performing zinc oxide-based sunscreens, including choice of the right grade(s), formulating guidelines, testing principles and several design strategies to create stable and high performing SPF products with the right level of UVA protection for global compliance. And, not unimportant, creating products that are aesthetically pleasing so that consumers will want to use them and reapply regularly.
Biography:
Jeroen van den Bosch has been involved in the development of ultrafine zinc oxide products, applications and regulatory approvals for close to 25 years.
He started his career in an R&D capacity at Umicore where he focused on the development of a range of zinc oxide products for sunscreens and industrial applications and the development of dispersion and particle sizing techniques for nano-sized materials. From R&D he moved into various business development roles with a focus on sunscreen applications and has been responsible for the growth and development of what later became EverCare. He is now heading up Uviva Technologies and offers innovative suncare products to the market.
Jeroen was one of the driving forces in the Cosmetics Europe consortium responsible for the approval of zinc oxide as UV filter in Europe back in 2012 and has been involved in various discussions and working groups at European level.
Carys L. Mitchelmore, PhD, Professor and Interim Director, University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science, Chesapeake Biological Laboratory, Solomons MD
Title: Addressing Limitations, Challenges and Next Steps in determining the Environmental Risk of sunscreens
Abstract:
Sunscreens are important for human health but contain chemicals which may enter the environment either directly or indirectly during and/or after use, such as the active ingredient UV filters. The 2022 National Academies of Sciences, Engineering and Medicine report called for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to conduct an environmental risk assessment for all UV filter active ingredients contained in sunscreens marketed in the USA. Since that report
an increasing number of studies have been published that have focused on the environmental detection and the impact of UV filters to an array of freshwater and marine organisms. This presentation provides and update to the report and synthesis of the existing literature regarding the potential impact of UV filters to aquatic ecosystems. The limitations, challenges, opportunities and next steps in determining the environmental risk of sunscreen UV filters is discussed.
Biography:
Dr. Carys L. Mitchelmore is a Professor and the Interim Director at the University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science, Chesapeake Biological Laboratory in Solomons, Maryland. Her expertise is in environmental health and aquatic toxicology and her research emphasis is on understanding the exposure to, fate and effects of pollutants in resident organisms. Research is directed towards the detection of chemical contaminants in various environmental matrices and understanding their routes of exposure, uptake and bioaccumulation, metabolism, mechanisms of toxicity and implications to organism and ecosystem health. Research includes toxicity testing for application to environmental risk assessment, regulation and management activities and providing solutions to applied environmental problems. Recent investigations have focused on the chemical partitioning, fate and effects of organic UV filters (active ingredients in sunscreens) in numerous invertebrate and vertebrate species, but especially in sensitive and understudied corals. Dr. Mitchelmore has served on numerous National Academies of Science, Engineering and Medicine Committees, including the recent study “Review of Fate, Exposure, and Effects of Sunscreens in Aquatic Environments and Implications for Sunscreen Usage and Human Health (2022)”. Dr. Mitchelmore received her Ph.D. from the University of Birmingham (U.K.) in 1997 investigating the metabolism and effects of organic contaminants to aquatic organisms.
Speaker:
Daniela Fruth, Ph.D., Expert Product Compliance – Chemical Registration, Electronics | Surface Solutions*, affiliate of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany
Title: Endocrine disruptors – a topic of growing interest: challenges and experiences
Abstract
Chemicals, especially those included in consumer products, and their potentially related health hazards are a topic of not only scientific but also emotional discussion. Especially the assessment of potential endocrine disrupting properties is a hot topic in various regulatory areas including UV filters.
This presentation will discuss how endocrine disruptors (ED) are defined and give examples of different endocrine pathways such as estrogen, androgen, steroidogenesis or thyroid that might be affected by chemicals. Furthermore, the regulatory status of ED in different areas, different assessment approaches as well as possibilities to investigate ED properties will be provided. Additionally, examples will be provided to show how communication style influences public perception of the topic.
The presentation aims to increase awareness on the global topic of regulation of endocrine disruptors, related challenges, and potential business implications.
Biography
Dr. Daniela Fruth works as an Expert Product Compliance at Merck Electronics KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany, focusing on insect repellents in various regions with over 8 years of experience. Her background is in regulatory toxicology were she also gained experience in the consultancy sector.
Over the past 6+ years Dr. Daniela Fruth has gained extensive experience in the assessment of potential endocrine disrupting (ED) properties focusing on biocidal and plant protection actives. In addition to her technical work experience, Daniela has also given many trainings on endocrine disruption assessment and presented at international conferences on Endocrine Disruption (ED). Moreover, she supports European association work with her expertise as ED is a topic of growing attention by regulators and consumers in various fields such as cosmetics and also sunscreens.
Dr. Daniela Fruth holds a Diploma in Food Chemistry and a Dr. rer. nat. in Pharmacology from the Johannes Gutenberg University of Mainz, Germany.
Speaker:
Sandy Raimondo, PhD, Senior Research Ecologist, US Environmental Protection Agency
Office of Research and Development, Gulf Ecosystem Measurement and Modeling Division
Title: Evaluating sunscreens impact on the environment: EPA’s path forward
Abstract:
Recent concerns about the potential toxicity of sunscreen active ingredients (ultraviolet [UV] filters) on aquatic organisms led to a National Academy of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine (NASEM) report evaluating the state of the science on the environmental impacts of UV filters. The NASEM report, released August 2022, recommended EPA conduct an ecological risk assessment (ERA) of marketed sunscreen UV filters in aquatic environments. Following a review of the NASEM report, the EPA has determined that robust, quality data are lacking for a defensible ERA. Much of the data published on the effects of UV filters on aquatic organisms are based on non-standard test designs, endpoints with limited interpretability, are not applicable within the USEPA ERA framework, and do not adhere to best practices nor follow EPA’s data quality standards. This presentation will overview the challenges of conducting an ERA with the current state of the science and provide an overview EPA’s next steps in ensuring robust, quality-assured data will inform defensible assessments of UV filters in the environment. The presentation includes an overview of the ERA process for non-risk assessors to understand what to expect from an assessment of UV filters in marine systems.
Speaker Bio:
Dr. Sandy Raimondo is a Senior Research Ecologist with the US Environmental Protection Agency’s Office of Research and Development. Dr. Raimondo leads research teams that develop methods and models to improve the assessment of chemical effects on aquatic organisms. Her research as been applied in EPA Ecological Risk Assessments of chemicals conducted under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act, the Toxic Substance Control Act, the Clean Water Act, and the Endangered Species Act. She served as the EPA’s subject matter expert for the National Academy of Sciences report on Environmental Impacts of Currently Marketed Sunscreens and is one of EPA’s co-leads on laboratory research evaluating the effects of UV filters on coral.
Speaker:
William L. Goodfellow MS, Principal Scientist and Practice Director, Exponent, Inc., Alexandria, VA
Title:
The rapid advancement of science misinformation: How serious is it, how can we detect it, and what we should do as scientists when we encounter it.
Abstract:
Misinformation has become an influential and growing problem within science communication. These can be simple online posts, overstatement of sound bites in press releases and journal article abstracts, and maybe the most troubling, the known or unintentional agendas driven by pundits or other parties. Misinformation can also be deliberate and purposefully misleading or perhaps even more common, unintentional, or taken out of context and repeated for public consumption. While it is often thought by scientists that we do not need to bother responding to misinformation when it is observed, it can be an important activity because it doesn’t allow misinformation to be the only message heard. One possible contention is that informed scientists are better equipped to continually address situations when science misinformation is encountered. As scientists, we also encounter more entrenched and often deliberate misinformation through the wide-spread outbreak of predator journals (i.e., rapid publication, lack of policies, broad scopes), that appear to have editorial boards or peer-review processes, but they do not exist. Many of these outlets publish articles that have clear advocacy agendas, using the opportunity to hide under the perceived cover of peer-reviewed literature. Science is under attack. Peer-reviewed papers are being retracted or labeled as “fake news”. Often this pressure seems to be generated by social media networks without adequate facts or justification. Scientists are blocked from speaking to the media, research funding is reduced, publication opportunities are denied, and policy decisions are being made that can undermine our ability to further explore the issue from a scientific perspective. These decisions may be in direct conflict with the scientific evidence. What is even more disturbing is that some people and even some scientists seem to think that this is proper behavior. They argue that the peer-reviewed science literature is flawed, that scientists do a poor job of self-correcting our mistakes, and these behaviors are needed steps toward progress. As scientists, we can more effectively utilize our peer-reviewed journals, scientific annual meetings, focus topic meetings and curated workshops to continually look for ways to provide forums and publishing opportunities citing, sharing, and building on relevant and accurate science information that has been tested and continues to be cross-checked through the exchange and assessment of our scientific peers. However, the best way for us to address misinformation in science and its communication to decision makers is to identify examples when we encounter them and provide opportunities for discussion as to how to guard against the use of misinformation when it is observed. Two categories of actions can be taken, one being preemptive pre-bunking of scientific misinformation and the other de-bunking of scientific misinformation when it is encountered. This presentation’s goal is to provide examples where misinformation has been observed and provide potential resolutions when it is encountered. These examples can serve as “best practices” that we can effectively implement to address misinformation in science communication.
Biography:
William Goodfellow is a Principal Scientist and the Director of Exponent’s Ecological and Biological Sciences practice. He is a Board-Certified Environmental Scientist (BCES) with special emphasis in Environmental Toxicology. Mr. Goodfellow has more than 35 years of experience in environmental toxicology and causal effect assessments. Much of his experience includes the conceptual and experimental evaluations on the toxicity, fate, and effects of chemicals in aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems. He has performed numerous Environmental Assessments of personal care products and pharmaceutical agents. Over the last decade he and two of his colleagues within the Society of Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry (SETAC) have been leading programming on important issues for scientists to be knowledgeable including, misinformation, censorship, and misrepresentation and discussions on what we can do as scientists to identify, train, and act when instances of issues such as these are encountered. Mr. Goodfellow is a Past President of the international professional society, SETAC, and is a SETAC Fellow. He is has served on peer-review panels, advisory boards, task forces, and editorial committees for many environmental issues, as well as being widely published.
Speakers:
Buu Duong, MD, FACP, FASDP, Sūneco Technologies, President, and Co-Founder
Ross Lane Pearlman, MD, Sūneco Technologies, CEO and Co-Founder
Title: Sun and Skin: Impact of Ultraviolet and Visible Light on Structure and Function
Abstract:
Electromagnetic radiation from the sun profoundly impacts the structure and function of human skin. The impact of solar radiation on cutaneous tissues is a function of wavelength and frequency. The primary endogenous chromophore of higher frequency ultraviolet light (UVB) in the skin is DNA. UV-induced DNA damage in skin accelerates photocarcinogenesis resulting in clinical disease including cutaneous malignancies. Sunscreens are an essential tool for primary prevention of skin cancer. UVA is less energetic than UVB but penetrates directly through epidermis and into the dermis. The effects of UVA on skin include free-radical damage, immunosuppression, and modification of gene expression. The clinical result of these changes is described as photoaging and presents as dyspigmentation, volume loss, and fine lines. Understanding of the impact of visible light including blue-violet light on skin is evolving and remains controversial. Emerging evidence suggests that blue light may induce melanogenesis and exacerbate skin conditions related to hyperpigmentation such as melasma. There remains a critical need for innovations that facilitate broad-spectrum photoprotection and development of sunscreen technologies to promote skin health.
Biography- Dr. Pearlman:
Dr. Pearlman is cosmetic dermatologist and dermatologic surgery fellow at Northwestern Feinberg Department of Dermatology in Chicago. He is the author of more than 40 peer-reviewed journal articles and textbook chapters with a focus on photodermatology, skin cancer, and cosmetics. Outside of clinic, he is dedicated to innovation and problem-solving. In 2021, he was awarded the American Dermatological Association Resident Research Award, the highest honor bestowed on residents by the organization, for his work on integrating dermatology’s clinical data registry into Epic EHR. In Fall 2022, he led a team of experts to win the Innovation Grant Challenge at Northwestern Medicine to develop strategies for automating prior authorizations (PAs) for medications. He is the CEO and co-founder of Sūneco Technologies, a biotech start-up devoted to preventing and reversing skin photoaging. Outside of dermatology, Ross enjoys all outdoor activities especially wilderness backpacking, flyfishing, and skiing.
Biography- Dr. Duong:
Dr. Duong is a board-certified dermatopathologist. He is an expert on skin anatomy and physiology and on diagnosing disorders of skin. He is the co-owner, Managing Partner, and Medical Director at Dermatopathology Associates. As one of the fastest growing dermatopathology laboratories in the Southeast, his practice is leading the revolution in digital health by integrating digital pathology with laboratory information systems. As an affiliate faculty member and clinical instructor at the University of Mississippi Medical Center Department of Dermatology, he is actively engaged in teaching dermatology and pathology residents. More recently Dr. Duong has synthesized his business experience and skin expertise to co-found Sūneco Technologies, where he leads as the company President. The goal of Sūneco Technologies is to create cutting-edge bioactives to power the products of tomorrow.
Speaker:
Yannick Rigg, Technical Marketing Manager, Vizor Sun
Title:
Why modifying the surface of Zinc Oxide is important for reducing whiteness, improved aesthetics, and higher SPF
Abstract:
The growing reliance on Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide stems from concerns surrounding the regulatory and environmental aspects of organic UV filters. However, this shift has brought to light various challenges associated with these particulates. A key aspect of addressing these challenges involves enhancing the performance of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide through manipulating formulations to improve effectiveness, efficacy and transparency.
An essential aspect of the solution entails modifying the surface of these metal oxides to enhance dispersibility, minimize agglomeration, and improve transparency. Ultimately, this leads to enhanced absorbance and scattering properties, resulting in higher SPF per unit of these oxides. By carefully selecting surface modifiers and refining coating methods, achieving this solution becomes feasible.
This presentation will delve into the nuances of coating these particles, with a particular focus on Zinc Oxide. You will discover how various coatings and coating methods can imbue the resulting material with a diverse range of functional properties, and how these properties significantly impact the performance of your formulations in terms of SPF, aesthetics, and minimizing whitening effects.
Speaker Bio:
Yannick Rigg is one of the Technical Leads at Vizor, the Zinc Oxide company that has delivered several innovations in the sun care space. At Vizor, he was one of the earliest employees and was responsible for the research and development that went into creating the two patents that the company currently holds. He continues to lead the innovation efforts and supports both research and data initiatives in partnership with 3rd party testing laboratories, as well as researchers globally. His experience spans 15 years across various R&D functions, including but not limited to material coating technology. He is a Scientist by discipline and has a Master’s degree in Atmospheric Science. When he is not pouring through data or putting in long hours in the lab, he enjoys travel, classic cars, and NY sports.
Speaker: Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Sytheon
Title: Microbiome Friendly, 24/7 Protect + Repair for Improved Skin Health
Abstract:
While suncare focuses predominantly on protection against erythema, the emphasis of photoaging simultaneously encompasses both skin protection plus skin repair. In this regard, current sunscreens have many shortcomings, especially in the US market. To address these shortcomings, and better maintain skin’s overall health, sunscreens need to be supplemented with ingredients that can uphold the philosophy of “24/7 protect + repair skin”.
Acetylation is an essential reaction in the body for reprogramming proteins and for regulating and transcribing DNA. For example, with Histone, a family of basic proteins that associates with DNA to form chromatin, acetylation activates genes whereas deacetylation silences them. Taking this as a lead, we leveraged acetylation to create a well-defined small molecule inspired by nature as an innovative new ingredient for skin care, called Acetyl Zingerone (AZ).
In this presentation, we chronical the multiple properties of AZ as a single skincare ingredient within a formulation to (1) help manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher, selective chelator, oxidase inhibitor and antioxidant defense system booster (2) fortify protection after UV exposure stops against the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) modulate matrisome genes/proteins and generally nurture the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis, (4) reduce senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity and reverse senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) (senomorphic), (5) boost pro-longevity AMP activated protein kinase (AMPK) which is responsible for cellular energy homeostasis & function as a metabolic tumor suppressor, and (6) balance skin microbiome. AZ is also photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol and many other cosmetic ingredients. All these properties help translate use of AZ into measurable clinical benefits that improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and that strengthen skin’s own defenses against sun damage.
Overall, our findings suggest that addition of AZ to skincare formulations can provide a translational step forward towards development of more efficacious and multi-targeted products to treat and prevent the consequences of intrinsic and sun-induced skin aging, thereby to promote longevity of skin health.
Biography:
Ratan K Chaudhuri, PhD, is President & CEO of Sytheon which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company (www.sytheonltd.com). Sytheon’s global headquarters is in Parsippany, New Jersey, USA with its European affiliate in France and Asian affiliate in Singapore. Prior to starting Sytheon, Ratan held technical management positions at EMD Chemicals (Merck KGaA) and ISP Chemicals (Ashland Chemicals) in the USA.
Sytheon is an innovative research-based company committed to developing high-performance active ingredients for the personal care industry since 2006. Every active ingredient in the Sytheon portfolio is inspired by nature and “Built for Performance.” The founder, Dr. Chaudhuri, is a prolific innovator and industry veteran with over 30 years of experience. He holds well over 100 US & International patents, has over 100 publications, which include original articles, reviews, columns, and book chapters. Ratan has been named as a top 10 inspiring business leaders by Inc. Magazine to watch in 2022 and included into the Prestigious Marquis Who’s Who Biographical Registry 2023-2024.
Speaker: Sam Raney, Ph.D., Associate Director for Science in the FDA’s Office of Research and Standards, Chief Scientific Advisor for topical product bioequivalence issues in FDA’s Office of Generic Drugs.
Topic: Formulation science, including considerations for the impact of formulation changes (reformulations) on thermodynamic activity and bioavailability of active ingredients
Biography:
Dr. Raney is the Associate Director for Science in the FDA’s Office of Research and Standards where he oversees the research portfolio of FDA’s generic drug science and research program. He also serves as the Chief Scientific Advisor for topical product bioequivalence issues in FDA’s Office of Generic Drugs. Dr. Raney is a thought leader with over 30 years of experience in topical and transdermal drug products, producing numerous research manuscripts, review articles, book chapters and patents in pharmaceutical product development. He has been a researcher and adjunct professor within academia, a principal or sub investigator on over 400 pharmaceutical product studies, has held senior management roles in industry, and serves on multiple expert committees and panels for the U.S. Pharmacopeia. Dr. Raney holds a Bachelor’s Degree in Molecular Biophysics & Biochemistry from Yale University, and a Ph.D. in Biochemistry & Molecular Biology from the University of British Columbia in Canada.