Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition that can affect people of all skin types, all ages and on any part of the skin. It is a condition where certain areas of the skin become darker than the surrounding area which leads to visibly uneven skin tone. Hyperpigmentation is caused by several factors, including excess melanin production which is often triggered by inflammation, hormone imbalance, genetics, pollution, injury, chemical/ingredient reactions and UV light [1,2,3]. The most common forms of hyperpigmentation include sunspots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which can occur after skin injuries such as acne scars [4,5].
Hyperpigmentation is not completely preventable due to its multiple causes; it is the third most common dermatological disorder and can cause psychosocial impairment [3,8,9,10]. Everyone is impacted by hyperpigmentation, but not equally. Individuals with darker skin types are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation. Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatological surgeon said, “Brown skin is more prone to pigmentation because it tends to produce more pigment in response to injury, whether it’s sun damage or picking at a pimple.” [7,9].
Treatments for hyperpigmentation include laser treatments which can be very expensive and topical treatments which also have their limitations. For example, for many years hydroquinone was the leading and most common ingredient used topically to reduce hyperpigmentation, but regulation changes and negative side effects have limited its use. Hydroquinone has been banned in the EU, Australia and Japan, and has restricted usage in Canada, US and UK [6,7]. Furthermore, excessive and prolonged usage of hydroquinone can lead to further skin unevenness with a “halo effect” and/or pigment rebound [5,7,8]. Hydroquinone derivatives are also facing restrictions and other chemistries are gradually being scrutinized.
Consumers continue to seek topical treatments to prevent or try to reduce hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C, Niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and retinoids are the most common ingredients used in skin brightening topical treatments. The key targets to treating and preventing hyperpigmentation are melanosome transfer inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, α-MSH inhibitors, anti-inflammatory actives and actives that increase cell turnover (Figure 1) [8]. The figure provides an illustrative overview of the common ingredients that are able to address hyperpigmentation. Overall, there are several ingredients that are able to address each key target but no ingredient that is able to address all the key targets to provide a single complete solution.
Social media platforms have increasingly influenced the education, standards, and treatment of skin concerns like hyperpigmentation. Influencers on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube have had both positive and negative impacts on the modern cosmetics market. On the positive side, they have raised awareness, helped destigmatize hyperpigmentation, offered product and ingredient recommendations, and made skincare knowledge more accessible. However, they have also contributed to the spread of viral misinformation, often reaching a wide audience before it can be corrected by fact-checkers or experts. While these platforms can help consumers navigate the vast array of skincare products, it’s important to approach viral posts with caution and conduct further research.
The global skin brightening product market continues to grow, valued at $9.22 billion in 2023. This market is expected to reach $9.67 billion in 2024 and $16.42 billion by 2032, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.85%. The Asia Pacific region currently leads the market, holding 53.7% of the market share in 2023 [11,12]. As demand for clean and effective products rises, there will be an increase in the development of innovative ingredients through new techniques and processes. For example, in 2022, BASF partnered with Caregen to create biomimetic peptides designed to brighten skin. This ingredient features a unique blend of mechanisms, including inhibiting melanin synthesis, blocking tyrosinase, reducing the production of melanin-related enzymes and transcription factors, limiting melanin uptake, and enhancing melanosome degradation [13]. This multi-functional ingredient provides broader efficacy than the commonly used solutions on the market. As the demand for targeted hyperpigmentation solutions grows, more partnerships like this are expected to emerge, creating unique and effective treatments.
In conclusion, hyperpigmentation is a complex condition creating challenges with treatment and prevention. As one of the leading skin concerns with significant psychosocial impacts, it continues to drive innovation in the skincare industry. Whether targeting melanin production or addressing inflammation, advancements in skincare science are creating more effective and inclusive solutions. The rise of social media has led to an increase in informed consumers, but social media is also replete with misleading or false statements. This has unquestionably heightened awareness and access to information about hyperpigmentation and other top skin concerns.
With growing demand for efficacious products, the industry is primed for future growth and innovation. Hyperpigmentation may be complicated, but with advancements in skincare science and a focus on consumer education, we may be closer to helping people find solutions that work for their unique skin needs.
References:
- Callender, V., St Surin-Lord, S., Davis, E., & Maclin, M. (2011). Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 87-99
- Cayce, K. A., McMichael, A. J., & Feldman, S. R. (2004). Hyperpigmentation: An Overview of the Common Afflictions. Dermatology Nursing, 401-406
- Desai, S. (2014). Hyperpigmentation Therapy: A Review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol., 13-17
- Wang, R., Ko, D., Friedman, B., Lim, H., & Mohammad, T. (2022). Disorders of Hyperpigmentation. Part I. Pathogenesis and clinical features of common pigmentary disorders. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
- Shi, Y., Zen, Z. L., Zou, P. F., Ma, Q. Q., Xiaong, W., Zhou, C. Z., & Xiao, R. (2021). Particulate matter promotes hyperpigmentation via AhR/MAPK signaling activation and by increasing α-MSH paracrine levels in keratinocytes. Environmental Pollution, 116850
- Nieuweboer-Krobotova, L. (2013). Hyperpigmentation: types, diagnostics and targeted treatment options. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 2-4
- Pandya, A., & Guevara, I. (2000). Disorders of Hyperpigmentation. Dermatologic Clinics, 91-98
- Asma. (n.d.). What Is Hyperpigmentation And How To Get Rid Of It? Retrieved from Pharmacist Pill: https://pharmacistpill.com/what-is-hyperpigmentation-and-how-to-get-rid-of-it/
- Allen, M., & Hopp, D. (2022, June 6). How to Even Out Discoloration on Darker Skin Tones. Retrieved from Byrdie: https://www.byrdie.com/how-to-get-rid-of-dark-spotss
- Tian, X., Cui, Z., Liu, S., Zhou, J., & Cui, R. (2021). Melanosome transport and regulation in development and disease. Pharmacol Ther, 107707.
- Fortune Business Insights. Skin Lightening Products Market Size, Share & Industry Analysis, By Form (Creams, Soaps, Lotions, Gels, and Others), By Formulation (Synthetic and Organic & Natural), By End-User (Women and Men), By Distribution Channel (Hypermarkets & Supermarkets, Specialty Stores, Pharmacy Stores, Online Channels, and Others), and Regional Forecast, 2024-2032
- Grand View Research. Skin Lightening Products Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report By Product (Creams, Cleanser, Mask), By Nature, By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 2022 – 2030
- BASF Active Ingredient Finder. https://www.personal-care.basf.com/products-formulation/products/
Anne Young is the Director of Business and Development at Biocogent.
Anne has previously held several leadership roles, including Director of Cosmeceutical Active Ingredients at Unigen, Inc., where she oversaw global sales and the R&D pipeline; Director of North America – Cosmetics Active Ingredients at Expanscience, managing the North American market; Global Product Development and Technology Manager at Vantage Specialty Ingredients; Technical Service for Active Ingredients at BASF; Lubricant Development Technologist at Infineum USA LP, where she led the Global R&D platform on LSPI; Senior Scientist at L’Oréal USA; and Senior Scientist at Johnson & Johnson Consumer & Personal Products Worldwide. Anne holds a Ph.D. in Chemistry From New York University. Anne has several patents, authored numerous scientific papers and has received numerous awards.