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Regulatory Considerations Regarding Sunscreen Actives

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Regulatory Considerations Regarding Sunscreen Actives

Yun Shao
Kobo Products, Inc.
June 2024

Summer is here, and it is time to enjoy outdoor activities and the beautiful landscape with friends and family. However, the Sun is bright and scorching, making the weather hot and the use of sunscreen essential. Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen!

When developing sunscreen products, it is crucial to focus not only on performance and aesthetics to meet consumer expectations but also on regulatory compliance. Sunscreen products are regulated worldwide and are classified as drugs by the FDA. For the US market both the manufacturers of sunscreen products and the actives (considered as Active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs)) used in these products must comply with FDA requirements, including registration and listing, as well as adherence to ICH Q7A Current Good Manufacturing Practices.

In terms of quality control, all sunscreen actives must meet the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) specifications mandated by the FDA in its sunscreen monograph.1 However, there can be some confusion regarding the specific details of these requirements.

National Drug Code (NDC)

The NDC, or National Drug Code, is a unique 10-digit, 3-segment number that serves as a universal product identifier for human drugs in the United States. This code is present on all nonprescription (OTC) and prescription medication packages and inserts in the US. Most formulators know that an NDC is required for a finished sunscreen product. But what about the sunscreen actives used in the formulation?

An NDC is not typically required for an API (Active Pharmaceutical Ingredient) used solely as a raw material in the manufacturing of drug products. However, some sunscreen actives in raw material form are listed in the NDC database due to voluntary actions by their suppliers. This practice is common for suppliers who import sunscreen actives into the US to facilitate customs clearance.

USP specification

To ensure compliance, a sunscreen active must be tested against its USP monograph and complies with all specifications. This testing is straightforward for organic sunscreen actives because they are often supplied as pure compounds. You can take a sample, follow the USP test methods, and conduct the tests. However, it is more complicated for inorganic UV filters such as titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO).

Most commercial grades of TiO2 and ZnO used in sunscreen applications have exceedingly small particle sizes and large surface areas. Consequently, they are highly photoactive and can catalyze the oxidation of organic compounds in sunscreen formulations or potentially molecules in the stratum corneum. To mitigate this, especially for TiO2, surface treatment with inorganic compounds like alumina and/or silica, and organic compounds such as stearic acid or silicones, is common.

As a result, the commercial TiO2/ZnO powders available to formulators are always a mixture of the active compound and the coating materials. The actives cannot be separated from the coating materials, and the powder, if tested as is, cannot meet USP specifications. USP verification or certification can only be performed by the manufacturer, as they have access to the actives prior to the surface treatment. It is common to see a statement in the Certificate of Analysis (CofA) indicating that the active prior to surface treatment is USP grade, or a separate section in the CofA showing the test results of the active prior to surface treatment.

Due to their large surface area, both attenuation grade TiO2/ZnO have much moisture absorbed on their surfaces. In the USP specifications for TiO2, the loss on ignition is set to be less than 13% for the attenuated grade (micronized or nano) TiO2. However, for ZnO, the specification for loss on ignition is less than 1%. There is no provision for micronized or nano zinc oxide. Therefore, to meet these specifications, the powder needs to be dried before the loss on ignition test.

Zinc Oxide Type

There are three USP monographs related ZnO:

  1. Zinc Oxide
  2. Zinc Oxide Neutral
  3. Zinc Oxide Powder

These monographs specify different purity requirements, with Zinc Oxide having the most stringent criteria. Only USP Zinc Oxide is listed in the FDA sunscreen monograph.1 While the Zinc Oxide Neutral monograph mentions labeling it for use in sunscreen, its purity level is too low for this purpose. Zinc Oxide Powder also has different, typically lower, purity requirements compared to USP Zinc Oxide. Therefore, it is important to use USP Zinc Oxide for sunscreen formulations to meet FDA standards.

Assaying The Actives

When assaying active ingredients in sunscreen formulations, the method chosen should align with the assay’s purpose. If the goal is to certify compliance of a RM with the United States Pharmacopeia (USP), a USP method must be adopted. However, once an active ingredient is incorporated into a sunscreen formulation or undergoes surface treatment (as is the case with TiO2 and ZnO), the mixture is no longer considered a USP active. In such cases, the purpose of the assay is to analyze the active ingredient level, not its USP compliance. Therefore, any effective and validated analytical method can be used.

Organic sunscreen actives are often assayed using gas chromatography. The USP method can also be applied to assaying the raw material (RM) as well as the sunscreen composition. For inorganic UV filters, various methods can be used for assaying the treated powder or finished sunscreen products. These methods include X-ray Fluorescence (XRF), titration, Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy (AAS), Ion Chromatography (IC), and Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (ICP-MS).

All except the titration method offer high sensitivity and are originally designed for trace metal analysis. Each method has specific pitfalls related to interferences, sample preparation, and operational complexity. It is crucial to fully validate the selected method for each type of sample. Subsequently, managing the analytical workload can be a significant challenge for companies with diverse sunscreen product lines. Each sunscreen formulation may require a specific test protocol and validation to eradicate or minimize the potential matrix effect of different formulations on the test result. Therefore, it is necessary for companies to have a well-organized and efficient analytical testing process to ensure compliance with regulations and maintain product quality across their range of sunscreen products.

Active vs. Non-active TiO2

The distinction between active and non-active TiO2 can be particularly confusing in color cosmetics with SPF, where both pigmentary and attenuation-grade TiO2 are utilized. While assaying and reporting the total TiO2 content is straightforward, the level can fluctuate among different shades, especially when the range of shades is very wide. This variability makes it challenging to determine the suitable active level for labeling purposes.

To address this issue, there is a practice to report only the level of attenuation-grade TiO2 content. However, this approach can also be complex, as it requires assaying the intermediate product in the production process. This datapoint is then used in the calculation of the final active content, adding to the intricacy of the process.

Environmental Concern

As we all know, the use of oxybenzone and octinoxate in sunscreens has been banned in Hawaii, Key West in Florida, Palau, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Aruba, Bonaire, and Mexico due to their toxicity towards coral reefs. This has reduced the number of sunscreen actives available for formulation in sunscreen products in the US. As a result, the use of TiO2 and especially ZnO has dramatically increased.

It is interesting to note that ZnO is considered aqua toxic by the EPA and ECHA. According to DOT regulations, a pictogram indicating this aqua toxicity must be included in the SDS and on the shipping label. Nonetheless, studies have shown that the level of ZnO introduced into seawater from sunscreen use by consumers is extremely low. 2   It is well below the Predicted No Effect Concentration of Zn2+ and Most Sensitive Observed Effect Levels. 3,4 Therefore, the use of zinc oxide as a sunscreen active is considered safe for marine species and ZnO sunscreen can be claimed as reef safe.

On the other hand, TiO2 is insoluble in water and has no toxicity towards any species. Its safety towards coral reefs was suggested by Corinaldesi in comparison to ZnO. 3 Of course, nano TiO2 is photo-catalytical under UV exposure if uncoated. However, with proper coating, the photocatalytic activity is suppressed, making TiO2 environmentally friendly. It could be the best sunscreen active from an environmental perspective.

However, TiO2 has a higher refractive index and often leaves a white cast on the skin if not formulated properly, which presents a significant challenge to formulators. Despite its environmental advantages, it has not been as widely considered for sunscreen formulations as zinc oxide in recent years.

In conclusion, navigating the regulatory landscape and environmental considerations for sunscreen actives is complex. Manufacturers must balance regulatory compliance, environmental safety, and formulation challenges to develop effective and safe sunscreen products.


  1. Federal Register / Vol. 64, No. 98 / Friday, May 21, 1999 /Rules and Regulations: Sunscreen Drug Products For OverThe-Counter Human Use; Final Monograph.
  2. Antonio Tovar-Sa´nchezet al., Sunscreen Products as Emerging Pollutants to Coastal Waters, PLOS ONE, June 2013, Volume 8, Issue 6, e65451.
  3. C Corinaldesi, Impact of inorganic UV filters contained in sunscreen products on tropical stony corals (Acropora spp.), Sci Total Enviro., 2018 Oct 1:637-638:1279-1285.
  4. Ingo B. Miller, Toxic effects of UV filters from sunscreens on coral reef revisited: regulatory aspects for “reef safe” products, Environ Sci Eur (2021) 33:74.
  5. Andreas P. Gondikas et al., Release of TiO2 Nanoparticles from Sunscreens into Surface Waters: A One-Year Survey at the Old Danube Recreational Lake; Sci. Technol.2014, 48, 10, 5415–5422.


Dr. Yun Shao joined Kobo Products Inc. in 1996 and currently serves as the Senior Vice President of R&D. With over 20 years of experience, he is a seasoned expert in inorganic sunscreen technology, micro TiO2 and ZnO development, pigment surface treatment, dispersion technology, specialty cosmetic ingredients, color cosmetics, and global cosmetic ingredient regulations.

Dr. Shao has shared his work at prestigious scientific meetings, including the IFSCC Congress, SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, and FLSCC Sunscreen Symposium. He holds nine patents and has co-authored several book chapters and technical papers on surface treatment and inorganic sunscreen formulations.

Dr. Shao earned his Ph.D. in Polymer Chemistry from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute and his B.S. in Applied Chemistry from the University of Science and Technology of China. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and a founding member of the Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association.

Gut Microbial Metabolites of Dietary Polyphenols and Their Skin Health Benefits

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Gut Microbial Metabolites of Dietary Polyphenols and Their Skin Health Benefits

Hang Ma, Ph.D.
Research Unit for Nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications (RUNCA), Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, College of Pharmacy, The University of Rhode Island

Imagine your gastrointestinal tract as a sophisticated biochemical laboratory, where the vast community of gut microbes metabolizes polyphenols— plant-derived compounds widely found in fruits, vegetables, coffees, and teas. Through complex enzymatic processes, these microbes break down polyphenols into a variety of smaller, bioactive compounds known as polyphenol microbial metabolites (PMMs). These metabolites are important to overall human health: they enhance antioxidant defenses, modulate inflammatory responses, and may even alleviate diseases.

Figure 1. Illustration of gut microbial biotransformation of dietary polyphenols to their metabolites.

A fun fact about PMMs: they can act like a natural “skincare” from within your body!

Here are some common PMMs you can intake from your foods and their potential skin-beneficial effects:

  1. Urolithins: They are PMMs derived from ellagitannins and ellagic acid found in various fruits (e.g. pomegranate) and nuts. They have been studied for anti-cancer and neuroprotective effects. For instance, urolithin A (UA) is reported to be safe and can improve mitochondrial and cellular health in humans [1]. In addition, UA can exert anti-aging effects on human skin fibroblasts [2] and protect skin cells from UVA-induced cellular damage [3].
  2. Equol: This compound is produced from the isoflavonoid daidzein found in soy and other legumes. It exerts estrogenic activity and has been studied for its potential benefits in alleviating menopausal symptoms and reducing bone loss. A microarray/protein-based study showed that equol and its isomers protect human skin cells by modulating the expression of aging and inflammatory genes [4].
  3. Enterolactone and enterodiol: These are PMMs produced from the microbial fermentation of lignans, a group of unique phytochemicals found in flaxseeds, sesame seeds, maple syrup extract, and other plant sources. These metabolites have been linked to potential benefits in reducing the risk of hormone-related cancers [5].
  4. Hydroxyphenylvalerolactones: These PMMs are formed from the breakdown of tea flavonoids (known as catechins) and are thought to contribute to the health benefits of tea. Human clinical studies showed that green tea catechin metabolites including hydroxyphenylvalerolactones can be detected in the skin tissue with skin protective effects against UV-induced inflammation [6].
  5. Simple phenols: These compounds include tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol, which are PMMs of olive and jasmine phenolics, such as oleuropein. A reported study showed that hydroxytyrosol and its parent compound oleuropein are skin permeable and they can inhibit elastase and collagenase (enzymes that cause skin wrinkles) as well as protect skin cells in a synergistic manner [7].

PMMs hold significant promise for skin health. Partially, this is due to their promising biological effects such as antioxidant properties. PMMs can protect the skin from premature aging by neutralizing harmful free radicals. Additionally, their anti-inflammatory capabilities may soothe irritated skin, reducing redness and swelling associated with conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Some of these metabolites also exhibit antimicrobial properties that can prevent skin infections by inhibiting the growth of pathogens. Beyond these benefits, phenolic metabolites enhance the skin’s barrier function, improving its natural defenses and moisture retention. Incorporating phenolic-rich foods into one’s diet can support the production of these beneficial metabolites, potentially enhancing skin health from within. For example, a recent randomized double-blind placebo-controlled clinical study showed that a pomegranate supplement (i.e. Pomella®) can promote skin health and beauty from within properties by improving biomarkers that are associated with visible wrinkles and moisture in a healthy population. Interestingly, polyphenols in pomegranate and their PMMs are thought to exert synergistic influence on both gut and skin microbiomes [8].

Although the potential of PMMs in skincare is promising, several challenges hinder their application and effectiveness. First, the variability in individual gut microbiota composition means that not everyone produces these beneficial metabolites at the same levels. Additionally, the complexity of accurately studying these metabolites in skin tissue remains challenging. These factors add layers to the barrier of developing PMMs-based topical skincare products. Research and development efforts are directed to effectively deliver these compounds to the skin and to ensure the stability and absorption of PMMs. Lastly, regulatory hurdles related to proving the health claims of such products can slow down their introduction to the market.

The future of utilizing PMMs in skincare is an exciting frontier with immense potential. Efforts are needed to advance our understanding of how these compounds interact with the skin’s microbiome and cellular structures, aiming to enhance their bioavailability and stability for effective topical applications. Collaborative research from all angles including microbiology, dermatology, and cosmetic science is crucial to developing new skincare formulations that harness these promising PMMs. Additionally, the industry is expected to innovate with sustainable and scientifically-backed products that leverage the health-promoting potential of PMMs.



  1. Andreux, Pénélope A., et al. “The mitophagy activator urolithin A is safe and induces a molecular signature of improved mitochondrial and cellular health in humans.” Nature Metabolism 1.6 (2019): 595-603.
  2. Liu, Chun-feng, et al. “Antiaging effects of urolithin A on replicative senescent human skin fibroblasts.” Rejuvenation Research 22.3 (2019): 191-200.
  3. Liu, Wenjie, et al. “Urolithin A protects human dermal fibroblasts from UVA-induced photoaging through NRF2 activation and mitophagy.” Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 232 (2022): 112462.
  4. Lephart, Edwin D. “Protective effects of equol and their polyphenolic isomers against dermal aging: microarray/protein evidence with clinical implications and unique delivery into human skin.” Pharmaceutical Biology 51.11 (2013): 1393-1400.
  5. Adlercreutz, Herman. “Lignans and human health.” Critical reviews in clinical laboratory sciences 44.5-6 (2007): 483-525.
  6. Rhodes, Lesley E., et al. “Oral green tea catechin metabolites are incorporated into human skin and protect against UV radiation-induced cutaneous inflammation in association with reduced production of pro-inflammatory eicosanoid 12-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid.” British Journal of Nutrition 110.5 (2013): 891-900.
  7. Li, Huifang, et al. “Dietary polyphenol oleuropein and its metabolite hydroxytyrosol are moderate skin permeable elastase and collagenase inhibitors with synergistic cellular antioxidant effects in human skin fibroblasts.” International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition 73.4 (2022): 460-470.
  8. Chakkalakal, Mincy, et al. “Prospective randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study of oral pomegranate extract on skin wrinkles, biophysical features, and the gut-skin axis.” Journal of Clinical Medicine 11.22 (2022): 6724.



NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Keynote Presentation with Qian Zheng, SVP, Head of Advanced Research North America, L’Oréal

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Keynote Presentation with Qian Zheng, SVP, Head of Advanced Research North America, L’Oréal

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org

Leading Beauty Ingredients and Formulation Tradeshow and Conference Takes Place May 1 & 2 at the Javits Center in New York 

(New York, NY, April 2024)—NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) is excited to announce that Qian Zheng, MD, PhD, SVP, Head of Advanced Research North America & Global Regenerative Beauty Discovery Domain at L’Oréal’s Research & Innovation will participate in a special keynote presentation on Thursday, May 2nd at 9:00 am during Suppliers’ Day at the Javits Center in New York. This fireside chat will be moderated by Kathryn Hopkins, Senior Beauty Editor of WWD, focusing on “The Green Sciences Revolution: L’Oréal’s Commitment to Sustainable Innovation.”

“Our Green Sciences initiative is at the forefront of reshaping the future of beauty, combining nature-inspired science with cutting-edge technology,” said Qian Zheng, MD, PhD, SVP, Advanced Research North America & Global Regenerative Beauty Discovery Domain at L’Oréal. “I look forward to discussing how our pioneering efforts in this field are not just part of our strategy but a transformative influence on the entire beauty industry, propelling us towards a more sustainable and innovative tomorrow.”

Dr. Zheng will discuss L’Oréal’s strategic shift towards Green Sciences, which prioritizes sustainability alongside groundbreaking innovation. This approach leverages the latest advancements in sustainable cultivation, green extraction, green chemistry and biotechnology and fermentation to develop products that are both high-performing and environmentally responsible. By 2030, L’Oréal aims to significantly enhance the environmental profiles of its products in alignment with its ambitious L’Oréal for the Future program. By 2030, all the biobased ingredients used in the formulas and packaging materials will be traceable and come from sustainable sources. 95% of the ingredients will be bio-sourced, derived from abundant minerals (such as iron oxides or clays) or circular processes. Additionally, 100% of the products will be eco-designed. The keynote will explore how these efforts set new industry standards and drive positive change across the beauty sector.

Dr. Zheng is a seasoned innovation leader and a highly accomplished professional in the beauty and consumer care industry. With a deep passion for the intersection of science and beauty, Zheng is vital in advancing L’Oreal’s commitment to groundbreaking discoveries and sustainable and cutting-edge innovations to deliver transformative results for all consumers worldwide.

She received her MD from Peking University Health Sciences Center, China, with a focus on dermatology and dermatopathology. She then completed her PhD training in neuroscience and furthered her postdoctoral fellowship in skin development and pathology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center in the US. She has developed multiple in vitro and clinical models and systems to investigate and decode human dermatological conditions, including genetic disorders, wound healing
and tissue regeneration, inflammatory diseases, skin quality, and aging.

“Dr. Zheng’s achievements and influence within the science community is extensive. We are thrilled to have her as our keynote presenter and her conversation with Kathryn will be inspiring to Suppliers’ Day attendees and fuel their learning at the event,” said Dr. Amber Evans, Chair, NYSCC.

Suppliers’ Day, May 1-2, is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.  Additional educational programs offered this year will cover microbiome, hair care innovations, bio-technologies, fragrance, current cosmetic regulations, nutricosmetics, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors, hot topics, along with “Truth in Beauty: Sci-Comm Influencers Panel,” “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and “Indie 360”. Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship program and a Career Fair will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 1st at LAVAN Midtown and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Award.

For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, the leading North American event for beauty and personal care product development and to attend, visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

Editor’s Note:  To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org




NYSCC Suppliers’ Day INDIE 360° Pavilion to Feature Latina Beauty Capsule

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day INDIE 360° Pavilion to Feature Latina Beauty Capsule

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org

Leading Ingredients Trade Show & Conference, May 1 & 2 in New York, Spotlights Founders & Brands with Latin American Heritage

(New York, New York, April 2024)— The INDIE 360° Pavilion, dedicated to highlighting new to market indie beauty brands that have novel ingredients, formulations, and unique concepts, returns to NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with a focus on Latina innovations and founders. Taking place May 1 & 2, the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, at the Javits Convention Center in New York, is a top ingredients and raw materials exhibition that attracts more than 10,000 global attendees involved in R&D, product development and marketing for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.

This year the pavilion features 16 beauty companies that showcase innovation across all categories including color cosmetics, fragrance, skin and body care, hair, and wellness. These brands are innovators in genderless and inclusive beauty, sustainability, multifunctionality, and ingredient transparency. The INDIE 360° Pavilion is hosted and curated in partnership with ACCESS BEAUTY INSIDERS led by exhibition and marketing industry veteran Daniela Ciocan.             The INDIE 360° Pavilion participants included in the Latina Beauty Capsule:

Nopalera: champions Mexican Heritage through its clean collection of bath & body products powered by Mexico’s nopal cactus.

Sanara: luxurious spa and wellness rituals infused with the power of indigenous Latin American botanicals.

Seis Cosmetics: a culturally curated beauty brand offering a stunning array of lip products, from color cosmetics to lip care products, to cater to all skin tones.

Rounding out the INDIE 360 Pavilion participants are:

Ashunta Sheriff Beauty: a Black-owned brand at the forefront of innovation and inclusivity, creates makeup that caters to all skin tones and types.

Aum Perfume: each fragrance in the collection carries its own unique story, enriched with highly concentrated, top-tier fragrance oils.

Lash Spell: recognized for its commitment to enhancing consumers’ natural eyebrows and lashes, offering effective yet gentle products suitable for even the most sensitive users.

LUNAESCENT: touch-free skincare applicator/massager is designed to prevent contamination, preserve potency, prevent waste, and replace common skincare tools.

Jovy: the first EWG VERIFIED safe makeup made just for kids with light, shimmery colors and hypoallergenic formulas contain nourishing ingredients that protect young skin.

Magic Molecule: designed to create the optimal environment for your skin’s natural healing process.

Oui Beauty: a luxury skincare brand that was founded by a skincare professional to redefine luxury beauty and designed for realistic sustainability.

Prohibition Wellness: an inclusive line of self-care products designed for every body that harness the benefits of premium hemp seed oil and natural ingredients,

Skincare Junkie: powerful ingredients in just the right combinations and concentrations and the brainchild of award-winning NYC dermatologist Dr. Blair Rose.

SKINTELA: an inventive skincare brand, celebrating the diversity of all skin types and combining the best in skincare evolution with powerful formulas.

State of Change: a skin-loving solid fragrance brand rooted in thoughtful formulation and 100% ingredient transparency.

Topical Skin: a clean dermo-cosmetic line expertly crafted with cosmeceutical ingredients and designed to address multiple signs of aging.

Ziba Cosmetics: combines traditional eyebrow artistry with modern empowerment through its signature brow collection.

Complementing the INDIE 360° Pavilion focus this year will be a panel discussion on “Rooted in Beauty: Exploring Latina Heritage and Ingredient Innovation in Beauty Brands,” on Wednesday, May 1st at 2:30pm in the Innovations Theater. Trailblazing entrepreneurs will share how their Latina heritage shapes their brands and fosters authentic connections with consumers as well as discuss how ingredients from Latin America shape their formulations.

The comprehensive INDIE 360° experience at Suppliers’ Day also includes a dedicated conference track, organized by IBA (Independent Beauty Association), that explores every angle of bringing an independent brand to market.  Sessions will cover branding to consumers, contract manufacturing, supply chain, MoCRA 101 and more. A highlight of INDIE 360° will be the “People’s Choice Award,” where Suppliers’ Day attendees can vote for their favorite INDIE pavilion brand participant. This winner will be announced at a champagne toast at 3:00 p.m. on Thursday, May 2rd.

Members of the press can join this year’s INDIE 360° VIP Media Tour to meet founders from all participating companies on Thursday, May 2nd from 11:00 am as well as Inspiration Zone ingredient participants; RSVP required as only a limited number of spots are available.

Additional educational programs offered this year at Suppliers’ Day will cover microbiome, hair care innovations, bio-technologies, fragrance, current cosmetic regulations, nutricosmetics, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors and Inspiration Zone, beauty trends, California beauty market, along with “Truth in Beauty: Sci-Comm Influencers Panel,” “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” and “World of Chemistry.” A special Keynote Presentation on The Green Sciences Revolution by Dr. Qian Zheng of L’Oreal will take place on May 2nd. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 1st at LAVAN Midtown and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Award.

Editor’s Note:  To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day and RSVP for the INDIE 360°  Media Tour contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org



Top Scientific & Marketing Education Presented at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day

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Top Scientific & Marketing Education Presented at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org 

Leading Beauty and Personal Care Ingredients and Formulation Trade Show and Conference, May 1-2, at the Javits Center in New York City Filled with Inspiration, Innovation and Celebration

(New York, New York, April 2024)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) announces its educational program for Suppliers’ Day, taking place May 1-2, at the Jacob Javits Convention Center in New York City.  As North America’s most important and largest ingredients and formulation event, Suppliers’ Day will provide the latest trends, scientific findings, global ingredients, raw materials and solutions that will invigorate and accelerate beauty and personal care product developments.

Curated by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee, along with support from industry partners, Suppliers’ Day will offer more than 100 hours of educational programming on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing beauty and personal care products including:

-Presenters from Colgate-Palmolive, Ecru, Estee Lauder, L’Oreal, Nutrafol, Nielsen IQ, PerfectCorp., and Shiseido.

-Three half-day technical programs taking deep dives into: Hair: Inspiration & Innovation; Biotechnology in Beauty & Personal Care and Inspiration & Innovation in NutriCosmetics presented by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee.

-Two lunch and learns on The Future of the Cosmetic Industry: Challenges & Opportunities and Fragrance: The Invisible Art.

INDIE 360°, led by IBA, covering every angle–from branding to packaging, supply chain, regulatory – and how ingredient suppliers define “INDIE.”

-PCPC & IKW Present: Cosmetic Regulation – Building Successful Compliance

-Digital Age of Beauty focusing on key strategies, digital tools and innovative technologies that influence product development, and speed to market.

-Microbiome: Inside Out Beauty offering research and expert perspectives on microbiome health from your scalp to skin to full body, while also exploring the use of AI in product innovation and personalization.

-NYSCC and CACPA deliver a technical program on Development of China Skincare Innovation featuring speakers representing top multinational corporations and domestic Chinese skin brands, as well as leading raw material suppliers.

-Popular program tracks on the exhibit floor and opened to all attendees, focusing on sustainability innovations, bio and marine upcycling with Discover Sustainability, global sourcing and marketing trends from World of Chemistry; and Innovations from the Exhibit Floor.

-New show floor education Sustainable Development in the Cosmetic Sector, Innovations from the Inspiration Zone, Rooted in Beauty: Exploring Latina Heritage and Ingredient Innovation in Beauty Brands, Truth in Beauty – Meet the Sci Comm Influencers Educating Consumers Around the Globe, Beauty Innovation 2024, and From California with Love-Innovating in a Complex Regulatory Landscape.

– A special keynote presentation “The Green Sciences Revolution: L’Oréal’s Commitment to Sustainable Innovation,”  by Qian Zheng, MD, PhD, SVP Head of Advanced Research North America & Global Regenerative Beauty Discovery Domain at L’OREAL Research & Innovation.

-Pre-event SCC CEP Courses on Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, and Advanced Skin Science.

            “With the theme, ‘Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate,’ Suppliers’ Day will fill the Javits Center with scientific expertise and market insights that are driving beauty and personal care innovations and bringing new products to life.  Attendees will be immersed in innovations and inspiration from all sources and be able to celebrate what they create and each other,” said Dr. Amber O. Evans, Chair, NYSCC.

Educating and involving student and young professionals will be prominent at Suppliers’ Day with the popular Future Chemists Workshop taking place on May 1st and  Mentor/Mentee along with a Career Fair in collaboration with SCC-NextGen. Sci-comm influencer, Jane Tsui (@janetheChemist) will be the featured speaker at the two Future Chemists Workshop sessions, and she was one of the first students of the program nearly a decade ago. A Membership Mixer will be the finale on May 2nd and will provide networking for veterans and new members.  All in attendance will be entered to win a trip to SCC National in L.A. in December.

The eight finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Award for Ingredients & Formulation will be revealed at the NYSCC Met-gala inspired Industry Awards Night “Future of Beauty” celebration on May 1st at LAVAN Midtown.

The sold-out show floor will feature 560 global exhibitors showcasing novel ingredients, inspirational formulations, advanced processing and equipment, and more.  New show floor features include Inspiration Zone, featuring breakthrough innovations from worldwide ingredient and formulation suppliers curated by BEAUTYSTREAMS, Plug-In To Inspiration Charging Station featuring a look in the rear view mirror to the decades of inspiration spearheaded by the NYSCC, and a Head Shot Studio.

Additional areas on the show floor providing an enhanced educational experience include Innovations Theater, Main Stage, University Row, Technical Poster Presentations and the INDIE 360 Pavilion spotlighting fresh ideas and concepts from companies and brands who are utilizing unique combinations of ingredients.

Suppliers’ Day, May 1-2, 2024 is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants from more than 70 countries working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.

Climate Change and Ingredients Sourcing

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The acceleration of climate change driven events is creating an increasing pressure on the environment and living organisms that depend upon it with consequences that will be hard to fix or reverse in the future. Every living organism that is exposed to environmental changes is impacted. We need to understand the scenario to put in place effective actions to mitigate the changes that will affect the environment we know and the way we source natural ingredients for cosmetic use. The call for action is now.

Global Warming
We exist in a thin layer of the atmosphere, 7 miles above sea level. Life has been preserved for thousands of years with the right conditions of temperature and air, mostly nitrogen and oxygen, but also greenhouse gases such as methane, nitrous oxide and carbon dioxide that released in the atmosphere contributed to stabilize the right temperature for living organisms. However, since the industrial revolution in the late 1800s, increasing burning of coal, oil, and natural gas, has caused more carbon dioxide to be released in the atmosphere, eventually trapping the heat, with the consequence of increasing its temperature, a process referred as global warming. Extreme weather has also triggered melting of glaciers, ice caps and contributed to sea level rise. In the US, greenhouse gas emissions linked to global warming, have been associated with transportation, electricity production, industry, residential/commercial heating, and agriculture practices.1

Climate Change and its Effect on Plant Growth
A plant needs water, air, sunlight, optimal temperature, and the right soil to properly grow. Climate change is affecting all the above, except for sunlight.

With most of the water being saltwater from the ocean, only 3% is fresh (glaciers, groundwater, lakes, rivers, etc.). A warmer climate is causing an increased water evaporation, eventually trapped in the atmosphere. Cycles of rain are altered; dry areas are getting drier and wet areas wetter. Plants would find it difficult to adapt to these changes and in dry areas, farmers would need more and more ground water to sustain irrigation.

With carbon dioxide increasing in the atmosphere, plants are growing faster, but weeds also, with the difficulty to control them. Plant-feeding insects are proliferating due to the decrease in plant nutritional value and increase in sugar content when plants are grown under a higher carbon dioxide atmosphere. This decrease in nutritional value is a concern for the human diet but also for other uses (such as cosmetics and supplements and their ingredients quality). Plants contain less protein, zinc, iron, and vitamins, especially B vitamins.2,3

Temperature changes during nighttime or daytime alter the normal growth of the plant and its reproductive stage. With increased heat some plants grow faster, and farmers would need to manage irrigation, planting, harvesting, etc., but extreme heat would harm plants, especially during pollination, and the yield would decrease dramatically. Many plants like winter exposure and warmer winter will also reduce yield or select out many plant varieties. In general, because of increasing heat, the plant cultivation geographical map is shifting, moving northern.

Finally, climate change is also affecting the quality of the soil, so essential for life development. A healthy soil is a living system that sustains plants, animals, and humans.4 It contains billions of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, insects, spiders, and many other organisms interacting together and with the plant’s roots. Soil contains organic matter, often derived from living organisms but also from plant decay (humus). This organic matter is vital for life, it absorbs water optimally. The symbiosis between the soil and the plant’s root is very important, and it helps keep the plant healthy. The quality of the soil translates in the quality of the plant and its products, the massive cleaning of forest for land cultivation is depleting the soil and carbon is released in the atmosphere instead of being kept in the soil.

Some examples of Plants disruption
Many plants providing ingredients for our cosmetic products grow in coastal zones, such as 70% of coconuts trees. These zones are threatened by rising seas. Moreover, scientist studying coconuts plants have shown a negative impact on growth by rising temperatures.5 The cultivation and yield of Lavender, Jasmine, and Rose, in Grasse, France, have been seriously affected recently by more extreme weather, including droughts.6 These plants are essential to produce essential oils for the fragrance industry. Medicinal plants are more and more popular in our industry due to a wellness push. Many species of medicinal plants grow on mountains and many of them are difficult to cultivate. Warmer temperatures are threatening most species, pushing species to adapt and grow to higher altitudes to remain viable with species not able to adapt and possibly to disappear.7 Basic life is changing in the ocean, too. Phytoplankton and Algae are declining due to a warmer ocean and efficiency in photosynthesis is affected.8 With declining fishing and algae availability in the arctic sea due to climate change effect on temperature and on El Nino driving stream, global sourcing of omega-3 has been challenged with main production shifting to indoor algae cultivation and fermentation.9

Climate change is real and we, as an industry, need to work with our suppliers to sustain our ingredients sourcing. Development of climate change resistant species, vertical and cellular farming to balance the pressure on cultivation and wild picking, and finally optimization of plant usage by improved extraction and process methodology, are urgently needed to reduce the demand on classical supply chain and implement a more sustainable use of resources.

1. Sources of Greenhouse Gas Emissions. EPA, 2015
2. Samuel S et al. Increasing CO2 threatens human nutrition. Nature 510 (7503):139-42, 2014
3. Chunwu Zhu, et al. Carbon dioxide levels this century will alter the protein, micronutrients, and vitamin content of rice grains with potential health consequences for the poorest rice-dependent countries. Science Advances 4(5); 2, 2018
4. Soil Health. USDA, 2019
5. Sunoy J, et al. Impact of climate change on plantation crops: coconuts. In Impact of Climate Change on Plantation Crops, ed. KB Hebbar et al., 2017
6. Quito A. The top luxury company in the world is fighting to save the flowers that go into its perfume. Quartz, 2019
7. Das M, et al. Impact of climate change on medicinal and aromatic plants: review. Indian J Agric Sci 86: 1375-82, 2016
8. Roxy MK, et al. A reduction in marine primary productivity driven by rapid warming over the tropical Indian ocean. Geophysical Research Letters 43(2): 826, 2016
9. Cheung W, et al. Climate change exacerbates nutrient disparities from seafood. Nature Climate Change 13: 1242-49, 2023


About the Author

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is passionate about the environment and sustainability. He has given many lectures in the past on sustainable supply chain, natural ingredients and upcycling as well as publishing several articles for the industry on this topic (see below for references). Giorgio is currently Chief Science Officer at Nutrafol, a company specialized in natural based supplements and topicals for healthy hair and scalp. After obtaining his PhD in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in Academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20+ years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, Innovation, Science, and Product Development at multiple companies. He has helped bring 200+ successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 90 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, and he holds 2 patents. Giorgio is also on the executive board of the US Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) as its 2024 secretary, he is the chair for the NYSCC outreach committee and he is a member of the NYSCC Scientific Committee.

References (sustainability)

Han M, Dell’Acqua G. Exploring extremophiles: a novel and sustainable path for innovation in the cosmetic industry. Cosmetiscope 30(2): 1-7, 2024
Dell’Acqua G. Green isn’t enough. Social Progress is the next chapter for naturals. Cosmet. Toil. (Cover page article), 134(7): 28-40, 2019
Dell’Acqua G. Recycling natural by-products from food and agriculture waste into powerful active ingredients for cosmetic applications. H&PC Today 13(3): 16-19, 2018
Dell’Acqua G. Sustainable product development. CTSCC Nutmeg Newsletter 35(3): 7-11, 2018
Dell’Acqua G. Communities under the forest – Can we separate humans from trees? NYSCC Cosmetiscope, 24(2): 15-16, 2018
Dell’Acqua G. Garbage to glamour: recycling food by-products for skin care. Cosmet. Toil. (Cover page article), 132(2): 28-37, 2017
Dell’Acqua G. The challenges of sustainable development. NYSCC Cosmetiscope 23(2):1-6, 2017
Dell’Acqua G. Sustainable ingredients with scientific edge. Midwest SCC Scoop 47(6):7-11, 2015
Dell’Acqua G, Calloni G. Sustainable ingredients and innovation in cosmetics. Cosmet. Toil., 128(8): 528-536, 2013

Embracing a Comprehensive Approach to Skin & Hair Beauty

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Defining beauty is a complex and multifaceted task that can be accomplished both topically and from within. Beauty is one of those feel-good life deliverables that both gives and receives, making it a personalized priority for all of us.

Beauty is a matter of interpretation, appreciation, and commitment. It all starts with a strong dedication and willingness to pursue practices that feed overall wellness persistently. Beauty is intricately linked to health, with factors such as restful sleep, regular exercise, and a balanced diet playing pivotal roles in maintaining radiant skin, bright eyes, and lustrous hair and nails.

As time passes, aging becomes a concern for many people, prompting changes in the way we view our routines, diet, and abilities. The use of topical products is first line defense and a natural progression towards influencing the rate at which you age as it hits on many sensorial notes both on a neural level and through repetitive muscle entrainment, making it easy to create a positive habit toward maintaining your health. The downside is that topical products typically work on or underneath the superficial surface of skin and hair. The epidermis, and the hair cuticle, respectively, are designed by nature to keep things out in an environment that is constantly changing. All of this is a good thing. From a product development perspective, it becomes a never-ending effort to correct and maintain your skin and hair without adding to the everyday stress of imbalance that already exists.

One of the overlooked functions of skin is that it acts as an excretory organ, much of what goes on inside your body has a direct effect on how your skin functions and ultimately looks. Furthermore, being the largest organ, it is privileged with miles of vessels moving nutrients and metabolites of every category to all parts of our skin, hair, and nails. Because of this nutrient flow, many of these nutrients and by-products of their metabolism find their way to the surface of the skin acting in concert with the skin’s topical biochemistry and microbial ecology, influencing immune learning and defense. As all of this occurs, your gut health, mental health, sleep patterns and attitudes are being transmitted through your skin in both acute and long-term ways. Like growth rings on a tree, your skin, hair, and nails, reflect a moment in time and the conditions within that moment.  If beauty is what we seek, I suggest blending all the possibilities there are into the best possible moment in time.

Taking a new perspective on empowering beauty is leveraging the wonders of a comprehensive approach to both topical care and support from within.

Beauty-from-within supplements are becoming more popular amongst consumers. It is one of the fastest-growing categories in the nutraceuticals industry with an above average CAGR.

Internally supporting beauty is a strategy that can address skin and hair at almost every level, leading to lasting results and a more consistent routine resulting in less overall stress.  This integrated approach, focusing on creating a positive feedback loop of promoting overall health and wellness, can lead to healthier, more radiant skin, brighter eyes, and lustrous hair. This exponentially grows the possibilities of intervention in terms of product development and gives the consumer a sense of control over their aging process and creating enduring foundational results with significant benefits over a single armed beauty approach.

Under this approach, beauty is linked to overall wellness, lifestyle, diet, exercise, sleep, and stress management, which become additional targets to support through dietary supplementation and lifestyle changes.

I encourage you to visit the events page on the NYSCC website and register for the “Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care & Wellness Strategies” event being held at the Pleasantdale Chateau in West Orange, NJ on March 26th. There is a great line up of speakers that will explore and inspire all the wonders of beauty from both sides. I look forward to seeing you there.

Author Bio:

Michael Anthonavage serves as the VP of Innovation at Vitaquest International, dedicated to expanding the supplement market footprint and ensuring their customers gain a competitive edge. With expertise in bringing new technologies to market, championing innovation and growth for all areas of health and nutrition as well as many aspects of skin and haircare product development.  Michael is a seasoned skin biologist, research scientist, educator, and a member of the scientific advisory board for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists for the past 5 years.

NYSCC Announces 2024 Executive Board

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Largest Chapter of SCC Elects Beauty & Personal Care Leaders Representing Prominent Manufacturers and Suppliers

(New York, NY, December 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetics Chemists (NYSCC), the largest chapter of the SCC, has announced its 2024 Executive Board.  The new board will be officially inducted during the NYSCC Supports Education Night on Tuesday, December 12th, at the Edison Ballroom in New York City.  This event, when numerous scholarships and grants will also be awarded, takes place on the first night of the annual SCC Technical Symposium in New York City.

As of January 1, 2024 the NYSCC Executive Board will be:

Amber O. Evans, Chair

Stacey House, Advisor
Senior Vice President, Consumer Beauty, R&D, COTY Inc.

Alex Blakeman, Treasurer
Senior Director of Technologies, Superior Materials Inc.

Diane Dabkowski, Treasurer-Elect
Senior Manager of R&D Technical Services Organization, Avon (member of Natura & Co.)

Mythili Nori, Secretary
Senior Scientist, Performance & Claims, BASF Corporation

John Carola, Chair-Elect
Business Development- Personal Care and Cosmetic Division, Katonah Chemical

“I’m honored to be providing leadership to this Chapter and guide its future growth,” said Dr. Amber Evans, incoming Chair, NYSCC.  “Thank you to my predecessor, Stacey, for her guidance and support and bringing this Chapter to new heights. Together with this amazing board, dedicated committee members, and countless volunteers, we will continue our strong mission of providing top education in cosmetic science and enhancing professional and industry development.”

Evans and the 2024 NYSCC Executive Board will also continue its outreach to students about careers and opportunities in cosmetic science.  Other initiatives will focus on inspiring innovation and celebrating all that the Chapter community creates.

To become more involved in the NYSCC Chapter, fill out this contact page:  https://nyscc.org/contact-us/.  For more information on NYSCC visit: www.nyscc.org and new members can contact: newmember@nyscc.org.

An Exciting Year Planned for the NYSCC

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Click to read the article on HAPPI.com

An Exciting Year Planned for the NYSCC

As the chair of the New York Chapter, Dr. Amber Evans understands the important role the Society of Cosmetic Chemists plays in a successful career.

Article by Tom Branna, Chief Content Officer

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) has played an integral role in the successful career of Amber Evans, PhD. From her days as a doctoral student at the University of Cincinnati (UC) to her career at Procter & GambleBASFMoroccanoil and beyond, she has learned from and given back to the Society. Now, as NYSCC Chair for 2024, Evans is determined to expand learning and growth opportunities for other members.

As a graduate student in the UC cosmetic science program, she became a student member of the SCC Ohio Valley Chapter in 2007.  Even at that early career stage, Evans realized it was beneficial to get involved in her local chapter’s activities.

“I attended the meetings and presented at the Student Night events. It was a nice chance to gain experience communicating my research and to network with professionals in the field,” Evans recalled.

At the national level, Evans took advantage of opportunities to present her research during student poster sessions, where she won awards at two SCC annual meetings.

“It was nice to share my work with SCC members outside of my immediate network. They gave me constructive feedback and I gained insight into how I fit in the industry,” said Evans. “I remember thinking, ‘Wow, my work is being received as relevant and impactful to the industry.’”

Her PhD dissertation focused on how environmental factors such as water hardness affect hair. Her research led to better understanding of hair and how to formulate products to mitigate those effects. Following graduation and an exploratory career stint in property management, Evans joined BASF and became an active member of the New York Chapter of the SCC.

2024 NYSCC Chair Amber O. Evans, PhD

In 2017, she chaired the very successful, “Innovation in Textured Hair Care” one-day symposium. Most recently, she co-chaired the “Hair Care and Wellness” program. Evans has also served on the NYSCC Scientific Committee for three years.  Along the way, she has participated in cosmetic career panels at multiple universities and events both with the NYSCC and through the American Chemical Society (ACS). These experiences helped influence her agenda as Chapter Chair.

“With a personal history of influence through cosmetic industry service and representation, I viewed Chapter Chair as an appealing leadership opportunity to deliver further impact with an amazing team of professionals that share the same passion for the cosmetic/personal care industry.“

Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.

As a member of the Society for more than 15 years, Evans fully understands the positive impact that the SCC has on a cosmetic professional’s career—from learning and networking at chapter and national events to continuing education programs to publishing opportunities in the Journal of Cosmetic Science.

Now, as NYSCC Chair, Evans aims to elevate the membership experience while advancing the Chapter’s mission of focusing on education.  Shaped by Evans’ appreciation for all sciences, passion for cosmetic science and admiration for the Chapter, the NYSCC theme for 2024 is: “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.”

Evans wants to draw inspiration from other STEM fields and adjacent industries to help facilitate thoughts around technological advancement in cosmetics. As someone who has developed both cosmetic ingredients and finished products, she values the power of cross-fertilization, “out-of-the-box” thinking, open-mindedness and creativity in delivering innovation.

“We can leverage insights from other scientific fields like zoology, for example. Some scientists have made progress in developing cosmetic ingredient technologies inspired by animal physiology and behavior. Perhaps solutions to some of the challenges in cosmetics exist in other completely different industries. That is the beauty of science.”

Highlighting insights and perspectives from all sources to inspire new possibilities in cosmetics will be key in upcoming educational programming. NYSCC will continue to offer high quality thought-provoking scientific sessions on major market segments like skin care and hair care. New for 2024 is programming devoted to relevant topics such as oral care, beauty supplements and pet care/grooming. The event calendar is available on the NYSCC website.

In 2024, the New York Chapter celebrates its 70th anniversary. Evans is determined to celebrate the chapter’s milestone, as well as the advancements of the cosmetics industry and the people who make those advancements happen. While there will be a special event for members to reflect on the Chapter’s legacy and fellowship, Evans looks forward to offering more options for members to connect with each other.

“We’re creating opportunities for more social interactions. Our members appreciate their ties to the Chapter, and there is value in connecting with one another in more relaxed settings. These opportunities will help to increase engagement and networking, and expand chapter diversity,” Evans said. “Popular events like the annual golf outing will continue, but adding additional social events such as a creative paint night or seafood boil could appeal to existing and potential members.”

At the same time, the Chapter will continue to empower students through its scholarships and Future Chemists Workshop, which is slated for expansion, and Evans is introducing an outreach committee to lead efforts in continuing to expose students to careers in cosmetics as well as executing new service and charitable initiatives. Several other value-adding endeavors are planned.

Evans is optimistic about 2024 and is excited to work with the executive board, volunteers, and partners to deliver a memorable and rewarding experience.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2024

And, of course, the cosmetic industry’s biggest event, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, will be held May 1 & 2 in New York City.

Suppliers’ Day has grown exponentially through dynamic partnerships with organizations such as Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), Independent Beauty Association (IBA), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the Association for Contract Packaging & Manufacturing (CPA) and many other related groups. The success of the event can also be attributed to excellence in informative programming and features.

“We are expanding on those partnerships,” asserted Evans. “We all have a shared mission to promote the industry, and advance knowledge in the industry. But since we are all not experts in everything and have access to different demographics, it behooves us to partner with one another for greater impact. Additionally, we are growing our educational and experiential offerings to keep up with the direction of the market.” Presentation abstracts can be submitted here until January 15, 2024.

With a full slate of activities planned for 2024, NYSCC members will have many opportunities to increase their knowledge, advance their careers and have fun along the way.

NYSCC Chair’s 2024 trend picks: Beauty tech, biotech, minimalism, & more

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NYSCC Chair’s 2024 trend picks: Beauty tech, biotech, minimalism, & more
Click to read the full article via Cosmetics Design

By Cassandra Stern

“The spirit of cross-fertilization and blue-sky thinking will be prevalent in all our efforts, including the upcoming 45th annual Suppliers’ Day on May 1-2,” said Dr. Evans.

To learn more about the important issues and areas of focus for the NYSCC in 2024, we spoke to Dr. Amber O. Evans, the chair of this year’s board, for her thoughts.

As the first month of 2024 is quickly coming to its end, beauty and personal care companies are now settling in for an exciting year ahead full of innovative ingredient launches, intriguing industry trends, and more. Recently, CosmeticsDesign had the opportunity to speak with Dr. Amber O. Evans, 2024 Chair of the NYSCC as we look back on 2023 and forward to the coming year.

From trends in biotechnology and minimalism to overcoming challenges in sustainability and economic factors, for the NYSCC, “the year’s theme of ‘Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate’​ and the thought-process behind it is not limited to 2024,” said Dr. Evans. To delve into her insights, including upcoming events, educational opportunities, and more, enjoy the following interview.

CDU: Any thoughts about 2023 as we move forward into the year ahead? ​

Dr. Evans​: 2023 was quite an exciting year in the cosmetic industry. We saw growth in product offerings and consumer interest in various categories, advances in ingredient technologies, shifts towards science taking the front seat in the development and marketing of products and progress on the regulatory front.

The harmony between beauty and wellness from a wholistic perspective really resonated with consumers. The NYSCC embarked on a thoughtful and impactful journey to “reimagine renewal and wellness” to capture this essence. I am hopeful and eagerly looking forward to the continued progress of the industry into 2024 and beyond.

CDU: What are you most excited about at the NYSCC in 2024?​

Dr. Evans​: This year marks a significant milestone for the NYSCC – 70 years of impacting the cosmetic industry by promoting the advancement of cosmetic science and elevating the prominence of cosmetic professionals. With that milestone in mind, I am excited about bringing our theme of “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.”​ to life through new initiatives that aim to inspire and empower including highly relevant and varied programming, an engaging membership experience and celebrations of our achievements.

The foundation of our efforts will be to draw inspiration from other STEM fields and adjacent industries to help facilitate thinking around technical advancement and innovation in cosmetics. The spirit of cross-fertilization and blue-sky thinking will be prevalent in all our efforts, including the upcoming 45th​ annual Suppliers’ Day on May 1-2.

CDU: In your opinion, what is the biggest issue currently facing the cosmetics and personal care product industries and why?​

Dr. Evans​: Two of the biggest issues facing our industry are sustainability and economic factors.  While significant progress has been made in sustainability-related efforts, we have a bit further to go in terms of identifying and implementing additional solutions that further address topics such as waste (all aspects), ingredient sourcing and consumer education.

As environmental conservation is a topic that is now top of mind amongst all stakeholders, from developers to consumers, I am optimistic about the future. Lastly, a challenging economic climate has impacted businesses and consumers this year. Going forward, this could lead to consumers shopping more intentionally, which means more focus on ingredients, performance, multifunctionality and value.

Both issues present opportunities for cosmetic industry professionals to rethink business and technical strategies with the ultimate goal of delivering successful differentiated products that address consumers’ needs with less impact on the environment throughout their lifecycle.

CDU: How does the NYSCC plan to address these issues?​

Dr. Evans​: We will employ a combination of hands-on action and educational resources, keeping in mind that any level of effort can help move the needle and inspire the potential for greater change.  For example, our annual Earth Day program will include a service activity for the first time, in addition to sustainability-related presentations. This is one of a few ways that the NYSCC will contribute to sustainability efforts with action. Through our newly commissioned outreach committee, we envision fostering opportunities that can help reduce product waste while supporting communities in need.

With respect to education, we will expand our efforts in informing and elevating current and future cosmetic industry professionals. We will provide programming in relevant areas such as sustainability, biotechnology, and diverse market segments, in addition to encouraging connections and knowledge transfer from other fields and sectors.

Forging mutually beneficial partnerships with other entities will be key. By fostering a highly qualified and multidisciplinary talent pool, the NYSCC can help to inspire new possibilities in sustainable product development.

CDU: How does 2024 fit into the NYSCC’s five-year progress plan?​

Dr. Evans​: Building on the legacy of the Chapter and its role in advancing cosmetic science, we are allocating further resources and executing initiatives that will have an impact on the industry and communities.

The year’s theme of “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate”​ and the thought-process behind it is not limited to 2024. Aspects of it can be applied going forward as we consider the future of the Chapter. Continuing to keep an open mind, take risks and be inspired to look for solutions and opportunities outside of our expertise will help us to innovate from both an industry and organizational perspective.

We will continue growing our portfolio of empowering resources for students, professionals and educational institutions. This includes scholarships and grants, hands-on training through Future Chemists Workshops and Camps, Careers in Cosmetics outreach events, the Mentor-Mentee program and much more.

We will also continue to strategically grow Suppliers’ Day to new levels through a strengthened network of partnerships and stimulating programming, while ensuring that we are continuing to deliver an impactful and value-adding experience for attendees. This May, at the Javits Center in New York, will be the largest edition of Suppliers’ Day to date.

The exhibit floor is sold-out and will feature more than 550 global exhibitors featuring high performance ingredients, formulations and end-to-end services and solutions. We are currently on track to have our biggest international audience with representation from more than 73 countries and over 100 hours of education presented in collaboration with our expanded industry partnerships.

CDU: What are your predictions for the biggest beauty industry trends in 2024?​

Dr. Evans​: These areas are a few that come to mind:

Beauty Technology​:

The use of advanced engineering, AI and AR in various aspects of our industry will continue to create new opportunities for personalization / customization, solutions to unique challenges, new tools and improving the overall beauty care experience.


Biotechnology will continue to be at the forefront of new ingredient development for advanced performance and sustainability.

Category Shifts​:

The blurring of the categories is apparent and now seemingly an expectation as the thought of the mind-body connection and other aspects of a holistic view resonates more with consumers. We will continue to see both the fusion of categories such as beauty & wellness, and the elevation of categories that were previously considered taboo such as intimate care.

Minimalism:  ​

Consumers will continue to show interest in simplifying their beauty regimens. They will be open to hybrid products and new formats, but multifunctionality and efficacy will be key.

Scientific Communications: ​ 

This one is two-pronged with product marketing moving towards a more science-first approach with ingredients and performance, and a growing force of qualified Sci-comm-influencers that are actively helping to dispel misinformation by educating consumers on the reality of cosmetic products and related topics based on facts. It appears that we will be moving further into an age of transparency and focus.

CDU: As MoCRA deadlines for enforcement come into effect, what is your advice for cosmetics and personal care product companies regarding compliance actions?​

Dr. Evans​: Cosmetics and personal care product companies should consult with qualified regulatory experts and establish systems with appropriate checks and balances to ensure that the necessary steps are taken for full compliance.

Cosmetic industry professionals of all backgrounds and positions should maintain awareness and a reasonable understanding of MoCRA by taking advantage of the various resources that are offered through entities such as the FDA, SGS and reputable organizations. For example, IBA and NYSCC will host “MoCRA: Tips for Compliance and Preparation”, a complimentary webinar featuring MoCRA experts, on January 31st​.

CDU: Anything else to add?​

Dr. Evans​: The cosmetic and personal care industry is a dynamic field full of opportunity.  It is an exciting time as we strive to produce next level products that meet or exceed consumer expectations for experience, performance, safety, and sustainability. The NYSCC is dedicated to contributing to the progression of the field through education and service in 2024.  Please visit www.nyscc.org​ to see all that the Chapter has to offer.