Home Archives for james.runkle@drummondst.com

Author: james.runkle@drummondst.com

Restore hair and scalp equilibrium for holistic beauty!

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Introduction

For years, hair care products have been focused on addressing damage by providing solutions to repair, prevent and maintain hair health. With increased awareness, consumers now recognize that healthy scalp is also a fundamental foundation for healthy hair. Holistic care means to restore the hair at its core while maintaining a healthy scalp. With personalization and self-care at the forefront, consumers are looking for solutions that are inspired from skin care with an emphasis on natural and clean ingredients. In this article, we will discuss factors that affect scalp and hair health and provide an overview of the innovative technologies including specialized product treatments that help restore hair and scalp equilibrium.

Stressors that impact hair and scalp equilibrium

Hair and scalp are affected by several factors such as UV exposure, pollution, humidity, mechanical, chemical, physical stressors, and occlusion such as hats and head protectors (like wigs, protective styles etc.) [1]. Sebum on the scalp diffuses along the hair shaft and can attract product build-up and dust from air which can affect the scalp’s overall health. Additionally, the bacterial and yeast proliferation on the scalp is commonly associated with enhanced desquamation, itching, scratching and redness [1]. Some hair products may leave deposits on the scalp, while others can strip hair’s natural oils to the point that it begins to over-produce sebum [2].

Oxidative stress, i.e., free radicals from sources like UV and pollution, can weaken scalp skin health and cause aging [3]. Sensitive scalp syndrome has been reported to arise from increasing levels of air pollution. Symptoms of sensitive scalp include itching, prickling in the scalp, dandruff, oily scalp, and pain in the hair roots. Pollutants also can migrate into the dermis and through the hair follicle (HF), leading to oxidative stress and hair fall [3]. Hormonal changes, medical conditions, heredity, and aging are cited as common causes of hair fall, but there has been a lot of searches for hair loss associated after COVID-19 (+250%) and how to stop hair fall post COVID increased by a whopping 1,250% [4].

The skin surface and follicular openings are recognized sites of rich microbial colonization and intense immune citation, with crosstalk across the skin barrier [5]. A disrupted microbiome may cause infections and inflammation to the scalp [6]. This disruption may aggravate scalp disorders that can lead to acne, eczema, alopecia, scalp psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis/dandruff, etc. The aforementioned diseases of the skin and the hair follicles [HFs] are all due to the dysfunction of dysbiosis – the imbalance of the skin microbiome [5]. Scalp conditions also impact the quality of hair causing the resultant cuticular cells to be less flexible than normal, which may impair both anchorage and subsequent fiber surface integrity due to an oxidative stress environment [7]. Hair fibers become more brittle and chip off. This results in a rougher cuticle that is also less functionally effective [7].

Cleansing of hair and scalp is also vital. How often you should cleanse your hair is determined based on your overall scalp health and can be attributed to hair texture. Some cleansers can be harsh and overly stripping, removing all natural oils, which disturbs the bacterial environment and can lead to irritation, redness, and flaking [8], while others may have a high oil load that can have a detrimental effect on oily scalp.

As scalp and hair go hand-in-hand, there is also tremendous focus on the damage hair sustains from the environment, washing, bleaching, coloring, and the use of different styling regiments. Hair damage affects all types of cross-linking bonds, including disulfide bonds, and can negatively affect the overall structure and ordering of hair lipids and CMC lipids [9]. Bleaching and coloring leads to dry, brittle-feeling hair and fiber breakage. Repeated washing results in lifted cuticles, while heat damage from drying, straightening, or curling leads to a loss of moisture, frizzy hair, and split ends [10].

Market drivers and trends

Over the past five years, scalp-focused searches have increased by 270% which is tied to the fact that one in two people suffer from a scalp issue [11]. Reportlinker projects the global hair and scalp care market will reach $121.4 billion by 2027 and will grow at an estimated 6.5% CAGR over the next five years [12]. Based on the latest data, Spate recommends that brands offer hair and scalp solutions that support skin barrier repair, moisturization and conditioning of damaged locks [12]. There has also been a rise in complex hair and scalp routines among millennials [4]. Need for different scalp products has increased globally, which aligns with consumers’ desire for benefits that address their individual scalp and hair needs. Consumers are also demanding transparency from brands and want to learn more about the ingredients used in their products and their mechanism of action. They also place a growing emphasis on the use of natural, organic, and clean alternative ingredients.

Advances in technology targeting hair and scalp concerns.

There have been many advancements in technology that provide holistic solutions to help protect, prevent, and restore hair and scalp equilibrium.

Sebum Control:

An ingredient that leverages a novel encapsulation technology*, ensures targeted delivery and controlled release of actives onto the scalp and hair to deliver instant sebum reduction [12]. This ingredient allows consumers to leave more time between washes, leading to water conservation [12]. A naturally occurring amino acid (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sarcosine) effectively aids in the reduction of an oily scalp. It helps to reduce flakes on the scalp and assists in rebalancing the microbiome. Additionally, this ingredient also helps fight against stress, pollution, and product build-up [2]. Another ingredient, based on lamellar body-inspired delivery system (INCI: Aqua, Lecithin, Niacinamide, Lysolecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phytic Acid), has been designed to target hair follicles where it delivers actives to regulate sebum and the microbiome [6].

Oxidative Stress:

Antioxidants are very well known and can be added to any kind of hair product due to their water-based molecular structure. They help to prevent the formation of oxidative stress and provide a wide range of benefits to both hair and scalp. A blend of three natural and powerful antioxidants, an extract of a medicinal plant forms a non-occlusive shield against urban pollution and protects hair and scalp against environmental stress [13]. A fermented extract of organically grown yerba mate leaves (INCI: water (aqua) (and) glycerin (and) Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract) is designed to help protect hair from oxidative stress-induced damage and help maintain healthy hair roots for optimal growth after only one shampoo treatment [12]. Brands like Keep It Anchored (P&G owned) are developing formulas that are powered by a combination of antioxidant salts that relieve oxidative stress, a zinc compound to improve scalp condition and B vitamins known for skin barrier health [8].

 

* INCI: Aqua (and) Cetyl Palmitate (and) Cucurbita pepo seed extract (and) Disodium EDTA (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Helianthus annuus seed oil (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract (and) Sorbitan Stearate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate

 

Dandruff:

With zinc pyrithiones (ZPT’s) ban in Europe in cosmetic applications, formulators are now scouting for new active ingredients. A biomarine ingredient derived via biotechnology (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract (and) Sodium Salicylate) has been shown to reduce sebum, itchiness, and flakes on the scalp, while also preventing their recurrence in both rinse-off and leave-on applications [4]. An algae oil (INCI: Triolein), containing more than 90% of the beneficial omega-9 helps hydrate, rejuvenate, and repair the scalp. It also nourishes hair follicles and protects against hair fiber lipid degradation upon UV exposure [4]. In addition, another ingredient positioned as an emollient with antimicrobial properties (INCI: decylene glycol), helps protect the skin from scalp to toe. Among other functions, this ingredient supports dandruff control concepts. It also provides a China-compliant alternative to the antidandruff active zinc pyrithione [12].

Hair Loss:

Broccoli and pumpkin seed seem like unexpected choices for formulators developing anti-hair loss products. Sulforaphane, which is an isothiocyanate isolated from broccoli, increased the expression of an enzyme in the liver that accelerated DHT degradation and consequently inhibited hair loss, as shown in an animal model [14]. Clinical efficacy of pumpkin seed oil (PSO) versus 5% minoxidil foam in subjects with female pattern hair loss (FPHL)after three months of treatment showed the pumpkin oil significantly decreased hair shaft diversity and the number of vellus hairs with results comparable to the minoxidil foam [14]. Another ingredient, a protein and peptide combination (INCI: Keratin (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin (and) Oxidized Keratin (and) Water) stimulates skin cells to proliferate by up to 160% faster than a placebo while simultaneously stimulating human keratinocyte migration and the expression of collagens IV and VII, thus improving the anchoring of follicles. The ingredient’s anti-inflammatory agent reduced the PGE2 response in cells undergoing inflammatory stress by up to 70%, reducing scalp inflammation, itching and premature hair follicle death [15].

Balancing the Biome:

Inhibition of the growth of harmful bacteria can lead to a better balance in oil secretion; this can be achieved using a unique probiotic fermentation technology rich in amino acids, polysaccharides, protein, and other biologically active substances [16]. A natural prebiotic (INCI: Inulin) can also help rebalance the skin’s microbiota and offer skin hydration that outperforms hyaluronic acid. The prebiotic is based on inulin extracted from chicory root and agave and works by selectively supporting protective organisms to help restore the microbiota layer [6]. Since 2020, We have witnessed a burgeoning of scalp products with Cannabidiol (CBD) boasting microbiome benefits [5] and recently we also have seen use of Cannabigerol (CBG) that helps to rebalance the scalp microbiome and promotes hair growth. Lastly, an ingredient (INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate) that utilizes the properties of prebiotic oligosaccharides as an approach to postbiotic bacteriocin procurement can deliver scalp moisturization and redness reduction [4].

Protecting hair, beyond the scalp,

Hair, after it rises from the scalp surface, also goes through damage from consumers’ grooming practices and external stimuli. Cleansing, conditioning, and strengthening solutions have been extensively discussed in the past. Currently, the use of bond builders is trending and growing in hair care. They are promoted as being able to penetrate into the hair to improve or restore the internal structure, giving rise to an improvement in mechanical properties [9]. According to this definition, bond builders include a broad range of actives, including organic acids, proteins, and lipids [9]. Brands are employing patented peptide technologies and amino acid complexes in multiple product formats that can help prevent and protect hair from the inside-out against all forms of damage.

What’s new and what’s next.

Ingestible hair care products, such as Nutrafol are gaining popularity for promoting hair and scalp health which has helped fuel further ingredient innovation. The introduction of Keranat in food supplements for hair (soft gels, capsules, beauty drinks/shots and cosmetics is said to offer a natural, vegan solution to effectively fight against hair loss while restoring beauty and brightness [12]. The design of neurocosmetic ingredients that modulate neuronal response to improve scalp care and hair quality could be a promising approach for the development of new hair and scalp care routines [17].

Finally, brands like L’Oréal are fostering partnerships with health tech companies to better understand the biological, clinical, and environmental factors that contribute to skin and hair health over time. This comprehensive understanding contributes to the development of a more precise and inclusive skincare approach that cater to the diverse needs of individuals worldwide [18].

Conclusion

The beauty and personal care industry has made great advancements in understanding the role of microbiome that impacts scalp and hair health. New research and findings help steer brands and ingredient suppliers to develop natural, organic, and sustainable solutions that will be a key focus area for future innovation. Furthermore, ingredients inspired by skin care, traditional ingredients, and biotech will continue to drive the growth of the hair and scalp care category.  It is imperative that brands continue their efforts in developing inclusive and personalized solutions to address consumers specific scalp and hair care needs. Finally, educating consumers on choosing the right products and regime that address their specific needs is crucial, in addition to providing guidance on how to use the products effectively to achieve the desired benefit.

References

  1. Luigi Rigano, Ph.D., Rigano Laboratories S.r.l., Milan, Italy, “Hair and Scalp Care Go Hand-in-Hand,” Global Cosmetic Industry, 2016
  2. BASF Corporation, “Rebalance the scalp microbiome with Scalposine,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (March 2020)
  3. D. Roddick-Lanzilotta, Ph.D., R.J. Kelly, Ph.D., and P.R. Sapsford, “Keratin Blend Anchors Follicles and Prevents Pollution-induced Hair Fall,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (September 2019)
  4. Ashlee Cannady, Aprinnova Juliana Gomiero, Stephanie Neplaz, Raphaelle Tron, “Hair and Scalp Cleansing and Care Skinification, ZPT Ban, Fermentation and Damage Repair Self-care,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (June 2022)
  5. Sharleen Surin-Lord, Dermatologist, “The ‘Skinification’ of Hair Care” Happi (June 2021)
  6. Laura Lam-Phaure, “Formulating on Trend: Skinification of Hair,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (June 2022)
  7. “Effect of Scalp Health on Hair Growth,” MedEsthetics (December,2021)
  8. Christine Esposito, “Natural Ingredients in Shampoos & Conditioners Benefit Scalp & Hair” Happi (December ,2021)
  9. Paul Cornwell, Ph.D., TRI Princeton, Princeton, NJ; and Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D., Procter & Gamble, “How Bond Builders ‘Repair’ Hair,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (February 2023)
  10. Rachel Grabenhofer, “Patent Pick: Binding Agreement for Hair Repair,” Global Cosmetic Industry (October 2019)
  11. Julia Wray, “Why applicators are the secret ingredients for scalp care,” Cosmetic Business (April 2023)
  12. Lisa Doyle, “Hair & Scalp Care: Targeted and Premiumized,” Global Cosmetic Industry (September 2022)
  13. Rahn Ag, “Radicare®-Eco: The Urban Antidote for Hair and Scalp,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (April 2022)
  14. Mohamed l. Elsaie, Lee Reuveni, Stephanie Neplaz, Sebastien Massard, “Restoring and Reviving Hair: Scalp Health, Laser Treatments, Natural/Sustainable and Deep Repair,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (February 2022)
  15. Michele Behrens, “FK Scalp from Keraplast Prevents Hair and Scalp Health Pollution,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (February 2020)
  16. Peter Smedley, “Bloomage Highlights Hair Shield, Scalp Care and Fermented Anti-aging at SCC76”, Cosmetics & Toiletries (December 2022)
  17. Maria Jose Lopez-Gonzalez, Nuria García and Isabel Devesa, AntalGenics S.L., Elche, Spain, “Neuro-cosmetic Targets for Scalp and Hair Care,” Cosmetics & Toiletries (June 2022)
  18. Julia Wray, “L’Oréal embarks on world’s ‘largest and most diverse’ skin and hair study”, Cosmetic Business (July 2023)

 

 

 

The Use of Natural Oils to Treat the Skin

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

The Use of Natural Oils to Treat the Skin

Roger L. McMullen

Fairleigh Dickinson University and Ashland Inc.

 

The term natural oil refers to a fixed (nonvolatile) oil of animal or plant origin. These types of oils—in contrast to essential (volatile) oils, which are obtained by steam distillation methods of plant matter—are typically obtained from plant seeds and nuts by a mechanical pressing technique or solvent extraction. Natural oils have been used to treat the skin for millennia. For example, evidence suggests that the ancient Egyptians used almond (Prunus amygdalus), balanos (Balanos aegyptiaca), castor (Ricinus communis), moringa (Moringa oleifera), olive (Olea europea), and sesame oil (Sesamum indicum) in cosmetic preparations (1). The natural movement in cosmetics of the twenty first century has led to renewed interest in formulating skin care products with botanical ingredients. In this article, I highlight the use of natural oils in skin care and their benefits for skin health.

 

Benefits of Natural Oil Treatment

Natural oils nourish, smoothen, sooth, and clean the skin. Skin nourishment is provided by biologically active ingredients in natural oils such as antioxidants and essential fatty acids (2). As an example, the antioxidant activity and health benefits of grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera) mostly stems from the presence of tocopherol, linolenic acid, resveratrol, quercetin, procyanidins, carotenoids, and phytosterols in the oil (3). Essential fatty acids, obtained through the diet or applied topically, are important for maintaining skin health (essential fatty acid deficiently leads to dermatitis) and preventing trans-epidermal water loss (4, 5).

 

Dry skin is typically rough due to ineffective desquamation. Plant oils can smoothen the surface of skin by providing a lubrication effect and by helping the skin maintain a healthy level of hydration through fortification of the skin barrier. Natural oils can also have a soothing effect on the skin. Anti-inflammatory compounds in the oils can help to reduce skin redness and irritation. Studies have shown that olive, sunflower seed (Helianthus annuus), coconut (Cocos nucifera), safflower seed (Carthamus tinctorius), argan (Argania spinosa), soybean (Glycine max), sesame, jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis), and oat (Avena sativa) oil provide an anti-inflammatory effect in skin (6).

 

Natural oil-based cleaners are used to remove sebum and makeup from the skin. While conventional surfactants can be very efficacious at cleaning the skin, they can also disrupt the barrier function of skin and remove lipid components important for barrier integrity. A good example of a natural oil-based cleaner was provided by researchers at Mae Fah Luang University in Thailand who demonstrated the effectiveness of tea seed oil (Camellia sinensis) at removing foundation and eyeliner (7).

 

Composition of Natural Oils

The chief components of natural oils are triglycerides. They usually represent greater than 95% of the composition of natural oils. Triglycerides are formed by the esterification of free fatty acids to glycerol resulting in a molecule with a polar headgroup and three hydrophobic tails (see Figure 1). Triglycerides are synthesized by animals and plants as energy reserves and contain various proportions of saturated, polyunsaturated, and monounsaturated fatty acids. In animals, the fatty acid constituents of triglycerides have greater levels of saturated fats (relative to polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats), whereas in plants there are greater amounts of polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats. For this reason, most plant oils are in the liquid state at room temperature.

Figure 1: Molecular structure of a triglyceride. In this example, that fatty acid moieties of the triglyceride contain three distinct entities. The three fatty acid chains in triglycerides can be the same or they can be a mixture. Starting from top to bottom, this triglyceride is composed of palmitic acid (16:0), oleic acid (18:1), and alpha-linolenic acid (18:3).

 

The fatty acid components of triglycerides can vary in chain length—they can be short (≤ 6 carbons), medium (≤ 12 carbons), or long (12 – 22 carbons)—which effects their physicochemical behavior. In some cases, triglycerides may contain omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9 essential fatty acids. The overall composition of the triglycerides (the types of fatty acids, their length, and the degree of saturation/unsaturation) is unique for each natural oil. For example, coconut oil has higher levels of saturated fats than most plant oils, which is why it exists in the solid state at room temperature.

 

Natural Oils in Wound Healing

Wound healing consists of the regeneration and tissue repair processes after the development of a chronic (pathological condition) or acute (trauma) lesion in the skin. There are three principal stages in wound healing, which include the inflammatory, proliferative, and remodeling stage. Essentially, these stages are characterized by a series of biochemical and cellular events that involve cytokines, growth factors, and other important bioactive molecules that eventually lead to fibroblast proliferation, collagen synthesis, and epithelialization.

 

In recent years, it has been established that bioactive fatty acids play an important role in the inflammatory stage of wound healing (8, 9). Essential polyunsaturated fatty acids and their metabolic products are believed to play an integral role in modulating wound healing. Omega-3 (e.g., alpha-linolenic acid) and omega-6 (e.g., linoleic acid) fatty acids metabolize to a number of different molecules including leukotrienes, lipoxins, prostaglandins, and thromboxanes—twenty-carbon chain length bioactive compounds known as eicosanoids (10). In addition to alpha-linolenic acid and linoleic acid, omega-9 fatty acids (oleic acid and erucic acid) were also reported to provide positive anti-inflammatory effects during wound healing (11). In summary, anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties have been demonstrated for various botanical oils including olive oil, grape seed oil, coconut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, and numerous other oils (6, 12-15).

 

Natural Oils and Diseases of the Skin

A brief survey of the scientific literature reveals a number of studies investigating the effects of oils on various diseases encountered in dermatology (16). In addition to fatty acids and other lipids in the oils, there are numerous biologically important molecules such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpines (e.g., cannabinoids, tocopherols), triterpenoids (e.g., squalene, sterols), carotenoids, and polyphenols (17). These phytochemicals have been shown to efficaciously alleviate the symptoms of inflammatory skin diseases, such as contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. In addition, dietary supplementation with essential fatty acids has shown beneficial effects in the treatment of acne, atopic dermatitis, pruritis, psoriasis, and skin ulcers (18-20).  Furthermore, supplementation with an omega-3 fatty acid was shown to reduce the risk of skin cancer in organ transplant recipients (patients who undergo transplant procedures have a very high risk of developing skin cancer) (21). There has also been considerable interest in utilizing natural oils produced by the plant Cannabis sativa for the treatment of skin inflammatory diseases. Hemp seed and cannabidiol (CBD) oil have been found to be the most efficacious oils from Cannabis sativa for treating skin inflammatory conditions (22).

 

Therapeutic Benefits of Natural Oils

One of the principal benefits of treating skin with natural oils is to alleviate dry skin by enhancing its barrier function. Due to compositional differences, each natural oil interacts uniquely with the skin. Some of the most commonly used oils for skin therapy are almond, argan, coconut, evening primrose (Oenothera biennis), jojoba, oat, and olive oil (23, 24). It is noteworthy that while olive oil has a number of reported benefits for skin—mostly for treatment of skin aging, pruritis, and xerosis—there are concerns that it negatively affects skin barrier function (25). Regardless, natural oils help form a physical barrier on the skin surface and function as a source of lipids to fortify the skin’s barrier. Future research could help identify specific oils that should be used for a particular skin treatment modality (26).

 

Aroma massage therapy consists of the use of essential oils in conjunction with massage techniques. Natural oils are used as carrier oils for the essential oils. In addition to diluting the essential oil, the carrier oil lubricates the skin surface facilitating the massage procedure. Some common carrier oils are almond, coconut, grapeseed, jojoba, and sunflower oil. In general, carrier oils should have a pleasant scent and be aesthetically pleasing when applied to the skin. When choosing a carrier oil, it is best to find an oil that is absorbed well by the skin that does not result in an oleaginous (greasy) sensation.

 

Neonatal Skin Care

Newborn infants are especially prone to developing dry skin conditions as their skin adapts to life outside of the uterus. From a physiological perspective, infant skin is quite different from adult skin. In infant skin the stratum corneum and epidermis are thinner and there is significant risk of trans-epidermal water loss due to less barrier lipids and natural moisturizing factor. In addition, there is an accelerated breakdown of corneodesmosomes due to the higher surface pH (which affects desquamation) (27). Several studies highlight the possible benefits of treating neonatal skin with botanical oils, such as sunflower, coconut, almond, olive, palm (Elaeis guineensis), and mustard oil (Brassica juncea); however, there seems to be a consensus that further study is warranted to determine efficacy and any proposed mechanisms (28-30). For example, researchers at the University of Sheffield in the UK found that treatment of neonatal skin with olive oil compromised skin barrier integrity and induced mild erythema in patients (31). Furthermore, researchers at Columbia University in New York City reported that olive oil can exacerbate atopic dermatitis and xerosis in pediatric subjects (32).

 

The Paradoxical Behavior of Natural Oils in Relation to Epidermal Barrier Function

The stratum corneum of skin contains corneocyte cells embedded in a matrix of endogenous lipids consisting of long-chain ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, organized into multilamellar structures. Sebum is found on the surface of the skin and contains a mixture of triglycerides, wax esters, free fatty acids, squalene, and cholesterol esters. One would expect that treatment of skin with natural oils could help maintain the moisture levels of skin by enhancing its epidermal barrier function via the formation of an occlusive lipid layer on the surface thereby preventing trans-epidermal water loss. However, in recent years it has been discovered that some natural oils may disrupt the skin’s structural lipids thereby compromising stratum corneum barrier function.

 

Treatment with some oils can fluidize stratum corneum lipids and compromise epidermal barrier function. In fact, natural oils have been used as penetration enhancers in the transdermal delivery of active pharmaceutical ingredients (33, 34). More than likely, the triglycerides in oils that are applied to the skin will be hydrolyzed by resident lipases resulting in the formation of free fatty acids, which can disrupt the ordered structure of lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum (35). In general, the paradoxical effect produced by some oils is thought to be more prevalent in patients suffering from atopic dermatitis and other skin conditions.

 

Concluding Remarks

Natural lipids are employed in several applications in skin care. In this article, we introduce some of the traditional treatment modalities and highlight some of the most recent studies published in the scientific literature which find health benefits to the skin. The available data suggest an important role for natural oils in treating skin inflammatory disorders, wound healing, skin therapy, and neonatal skin care. Despite the widespread use of natural oils in cosmetic formulations, there is considerable need to conduct further research in this area to better elucidate the mechanisms responsible for the efficacious nature of the oils. Looking ahead to the future, such action will require us to proactively investigate the bioactivity of the components of a broad range of natural oils in a systematic manner. In addition, a better understanding of the detrimental effects of certain oils to epidermal barrier function in specific types of skin needs to be elucidated in future studies.

 

Acknowledgements

The author expresses his sincere gratitude to Drs. Gopinathan Menon and David J. Moore for revising the text and offering useful suggestions.

 

References

  1. McMullen R, Dell’Acqua G. History of natural ingredients in cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2023;10:71.
  2. McMullen R. Antioxidants and the Skin (2nd edition). Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press; 2019.
  3. Garavaglia J, Markoski M, Oliveira A, Marcadenti A. Grape seed oil compounds: biological and chemical actions for health. Nutr Metab Insights. 2016;9:59-64.
  4. Prottey C, Hartop P, Press M. Correction of the cutaneous manifestations of essential fatty acid deficiency in man by application of sunflower-seed oil to the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1975;64(4):228-34.
  5. Hansen A, Haggard M, Boelsche A, Adam D, Wiese H. Essential fatty acids in infant nutrition. III. Clinical manifestations of linoleic acid deficiency. J Nutr. 1958;66(4):565-76.
  6. Lin T, Zhong L, Santiago J. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2018;19:70.
  7. Parnsamut N, Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Development and efficacy assessment of tea seed oil makeup remover. Ann Pharm Fr. 2017;75(3):189-95.
  8. Ishak W, Katas H, Yuen N, Abdullah M, Zulfakar M. Topical application of omega-3-, omega-6-, and omega-9-rich oil emulsions for cutaneous wound healing in rats. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019;9(2):418-33.
  9. Lania B, Morari J, Almeida A, Silva M, Vieira-Damiani G, Lins K, et al. Topical essential fatty acid oil on wounds: local and systemic effects. PLoS One. 2019;14(1):e0210059.
  10. Jara C, Mendes N, Prado T, de Araújo E. Bioactive fatty acids in the resolution of chronic inflammation in skin wounds. Adv Wound Care (New Rochelle). 2020;9(8):472-90.
  11. Farag M, Gad M. Omega-9 fatty acids: potential roles in inflammation and cancer management. Genet Eng Biotechnol. 2022;20(1):48.
  12. Chen C, Nien C, Chen L, Huang K, Chang W, Huang H. Effects of Sapindus mukorossi seed oil on skin wound healing: in vivo and in vitro testing. Int J Mol Sci. 2019;20(10):2579.
  13. Nevin K, Rajamohan T. Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2010;23(6):290-7.
  14. Shivananda Nayak B, Dan Ramdath D, Marshall J, Isitor G, Xue S, Shi J. Wound-healing properties of the oils of Vitis vinifera and Vaccinium macrocarpon. Phytother Res. 2011;25(8):1201-8.
  15. Poljšak N, Kreft S, Kočevar Glavač N. Vegetable butters and oils in skin wound healing: scientific evidence for new opportunities in dermatology. Phytother Res. 2020;34(2):254-69.
  16. Tabassum N, Hamdani M. Plants used to treat skin diseases. Pharmacogn Rev. 2014;8(15):52-60.
  17. Styrczewska M, Zuk M, Boba A, Zalewski I, Kulma A. Use of natural components derived from oil seed plants for treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Curr Pharm Des. 2019;25(20):2241-63.
  18. Thomsen B, Chow E, Sapijaszko M. The potential uses of omega-3 fatty acids in dermatology: a review. J Cutan Med Surg. 2020;24(5):481-94.
  19. Barcelos R, de Mello-Sampayo C, Antoniazzi C, Segat H, Silva H, Veit J, et al. Oral supplementation with fish oil reduces dryness and pruritus in the acetone-induced dry skin rat model. Dermatol Sci. 2015;79(3):298-304.
  20. Sawada Y, Saito-Sasaki N, Nakamura M. Omega 3 fatty acid and skin diseases. Front Immunol. 2021;11:623052.
  21. Miura K, Way M, Jiyad Z, Marquart L, Plasmeijer E, Campbell S, et al. Omega-3 fatty acid intake and decreased risk of skin cancer in organ transplant recipients. Eur J Nutr. 2021;60(4):1897-905.
  22. Martins A, Gomes A, Vilas Boas I, Marto J, Ribeiro H. Cannabis-based products for the treatment of skin inflammatory diseases: a timely review. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2022;15(2):210.
  23. Vaughn A, Clark A, Sivamani R, Shi V. Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2018;19(1):103-17.
  24. Blaak J, Staib P. An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose, and jojoba oils in skin care applications. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021;44(1):1-9.
  25. Badiu D, Rajendram R. Chapter 33 – Effect of olive oil on the skin. In: Preedy V, Watson R, editors. Olives and Olive Oil in Health and Disease Prevention (Second Edition). London, UK: Academic Press; 2021. p. 401-13.
  26. Moore E, Wagner C, Komarnytsky S. The enigma of bioactivity and toxicity of botanical oils for skin care. Front Pharmacol. 2020;11:785.
  27. Cooke A, Victor S, Cork M, Lavender T. Topical oils for the prevention or treatment of dry skin in term infants. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2019;2019(11):CD011100.
  28. Aksucu G, Azak M, Çağlar S. Effects of topical oils on neonatal skin: a systematic review. Adv Skin Wound Care. 2022;35(12):1-9.
  29. Pupala S, Rao S, Strunk T, Patole S. Topical application of coconut oil to the skin of preterm infants: a systematic review. Eur J Pediatr. 2019;178(9):1317-24.
  30. Chiabi A, Kenmogne M, Nguefack S, Obadeyi B, Mah E, Meka F, et al. The empiric use of palm kernel oil in neonatal skin care: justifiable or not? Chin J Integr Med. 2011;17(12):950-4.
  31. Danby S, AlEnezi T, Sultan A, Lavender T, Chittock J, Brown K, et al. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care. Pediatr Dermatol. 2013;30(1):42-50.
  32. Karagounis T, Gittler J, Rotemberg V, Morel K. Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil. Pediatr Dermatol. 2019;36(1):9-15.
  33. Viljoen J, Cowley A, du Preez J, Gerber M, du Plessis J. Penetration enhancing effects of selected natural oils utilized in topical dosage forms. Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2015;41(12):2045-54.
  34. van Zyl L, du Preez J, Gerber M, du Plessis J, Viljoen J. Essential fatty acids as transdermal penetration enhancers. J Pharm Sci. 2016;105(1):188-93.
  35. Leung D, Elias P, Nadeau K, Berdyshev E. Olive oil is for eating and not skin moisturization. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2021;148(2):652.

 

 

 

 

 

 

NYSCC Participates American Chemical Society’s Middle-Atlantic Regional Meeting

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Giorgio Dell’Acqua chairs session featuring Moroccanoil’s Amber Evans, Coty’s Stacey House and other NYSCC executive board and scientific committee members.

The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) recently chaired a technical session on cosmetic chemistry during the 51st Middle-Atlantic Regional Meeting of American Chemical Society (ACS) hosted by its New York Chapter, St. John’s University and The Graduate Center of the City University of New York (CUNY).  This theme of the meeting was “Chemistry Refocused.” Held June 9-10,  it included technical and poster sessions on varied subjects within chemistry, employment programming, workshops as well as a graduate study fair, awards ceremony and more.

The cosmetic chemistry technical session was chaired by Giorgio Dell’Acqua (NYSCC) and attracted more than 75 participants between students and faculty members. It featured members of the NYSCC executive board and scientific committee that presented top cosmetic chemistry topics followed by a panel discussion on career paths in the industry.

Speakers and topics included:

• Dell’Acqua, NYSCC advisor and chief scientific officer, Nutrafol, spoke about “Sourcing and Developing Cosmetic Ingredients Using a Sustainable Approach.”
• Dr. Amber Evans, chair-elect NYSCC and senior manager of product development at Moroccanoil, spoke on “Hair Care & the Chemistry Within.”
• Stacey House, NYSCC chair, and senior VP of R&D consumer beauty, color and skin, Coty and LATAM, discussed “Decoding Ingredient Labels.”
• Dr. Hani Fares, senior director of skincare and oral care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients and chair of the NYSCC Scientific Committee, presented “Formulating Sunscreens.”
• Dr. Sue Feng, chief scientific officer, E.T. Browne’s global research and innovation, and NYSCC scientific committee member, covered, “How Textile Technology Innovations Transfer into Color Cosmetic Formulations.”

The technical session concluded with a panel Q&A on cosmetic chemistry career paths led by Dell’Acqua.

In addition, during MARM, NYSCC members coached students on their resumes during one-on-one review sessions, participated in a career panel with technical professionals from other industries, and engaged with students over their research posters.

“This was an exciting and fruitful outreach program for NYSCC this year. The Chapter will continue to foster relationships with other professional organizations and academia to promote cosmetic science as a strong career path,” said House.

NYSCC Continues Its Outreach on Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Largest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists Participates in the Middle-Atlantic Regional Meeting (MARM) of the American Chemical Society (ACS)

(New York, NY, July 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) recently chaired a technical session on “Cosmetic Chemistry,” during the 51st Middle-Atlantic Regional Meeting (MARM) of ACS hosted by its New York Chapter, St. John’s University and The Graduate Center of the City University of New York (CUNY).  The meeting, June 9-10, 2023 was themed “Chemistry Refocused,” and included technical and poster sessions on varied subjects within chemistry, employment programming, workshops as well as a graduate study fair, awards ceremony and more.

The Cosmetic Chemistry technical session on June 9th was chaired by Giorgio Dell’Acqua (NYSCC) and attracted more than 75 participants between students and faculty members. It featured members of the NYSCC Executive Board and Scientific Committee that presented top cosmetic chemistry topics followed by a panel discussion on career paths in the industry.

Speakers and topics included:

-Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, NYSCC Advisor, and Chief Scientific Officer at Nutrafol. He spoke about “Sourcing and Developing Cosmetic Ingredients Using a Sustainable Approach.”

-Dr. Amber Evans, Chair-Elect NYSCC, and Senior Manager of Product Development at Moroccanoil spoke on “Hair Care & the Chemistry Within.”

-Stacey House, NYSCC Chair, and Senior VP of R&D Consumer Beauty, Color & Skin, Coty and LATAM discussed “Decoding Ingredient Labels.”

-Dr. Hani Fares, Senior Director of Skincare and Oral Care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Chair of the NYSCC Scientific Committee, presented “Formulating Sunscreens.”

-Dr. Sue Feng, Chief Scientific Officer, E.T. Browne’s Global Research & Innovation, and NYSCC Scientific Committee Member, covered, “How Textile Technology Innovations Transfer into Color Cosmetic Formulations.”

 

The technical session concluded with a panel Q&A on cosmetic chemistry career paths led by Dell’Acqua.  In addition, during MARM, NYSCC members coached students on their resumes during one-on-one review sessions, participated in a career panel with technical professionals from other industries, and engaged with students over their research posters.

“This was an exciting and fruitful outreach program for NYSCC this year. The Chapter will continue to foster relationships with other professional organizations and academia to promote cosmetic science as a strong career path,” said Stacey House, NYSCC Chair.

NYSCC also gives out numerous scholarships and grants to help students in their academic journey.  To find out more visit:  https://nyscc.org/scholarships-and-grants/, and the deadline is July 15th.   For more information about NYSCC and its annual Suppliers’ Day event, including its Future Chemists Workshop. visit, www.nyscc.org

###

About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists, www.nyscc.org, strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry.  Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Records Its Biggest Ingredients & Formulation Event

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

10,362 Attendees, 546 Global Exhibitors from 73 Countries Highlighted Beauty & Personal Care Event that Reimagined Renewal & Wellness

 

(New York, NY, May 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)  44th Annual Suppliers’ Day broke attendance records, May 2-3, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. Attracting 10,362 registrants in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents, and representing 73 countries, Suppliers’ Day 2023 enjoyed its best professional attendance to date.

“Attendees and exhibitors were energized by the look, feel and size of the show and being back together to explore, discover and discuss the science behind ingredients and formulations” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC. “Every inch of the show embraced our theme of Reimagining Renewal & Wellness and helped spark attendees product development plans.”

In addition to an exhibit floor that featured 546 exhibiting companies including 174 new exhibitors, Suppliers’ Day also boasted 100+ hours of education as well as its largest participation in conference delegates with almost 500 registrants.  Well attended programs covered microbiome, hair care and wellness, bio-technologies, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors, hot topics, along with “Truth in Beauty: Sci-Comm Influencers Panel.”  Suppliers’ Day core programs, “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and “Indie 360”, provided fresh content and actionable insight that continues to resonate with attendees.

The Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation & Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal and moderated by Lan Vu, Founder/CEO of BeautyStreams, discussed how L’Oréal achieves their green sciences and sustainability goals to a standing room only crowd.

The Future Chemists Workshop broke records as well with more than 100  students from 22 colleges and universities across the county participating in a  mini-challenge for the best upcycled leave-in hair and scalp spray. The NYSCC Mentorship Mixer and Career Development Program connected members with mentees looking to enhance their professional development and career in cosmetic chemistry.

The NYSCC Awards Night event took place on Tuesday, May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and announced the eight finalists of the 2023 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards for ingredients and Formulation: Activen for XEP-716 MiniProtein; BASF for ProBiolift; Cambrium for NovaColl; Croda Inc. for Mel[o]stem, Givaudan Active Beauty for Gravityl, Givaudan Active Beauty for PrimalHyal Hydra[+], P2 Science, Inc. for CitroSperse and Vantage Specialty Ingredients Inc. for Concentrated Conditioner Drops.  The winner will be announced at the CEW Beauty Creators Awards Luncheon on November 7, 2023.

The INDIE 360 Pavilion featured 14 curated brands that are new to market and have novel ingredients, formulations, and unique concepts.  The People’s Choice Award went to INA Labs, for their clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman’s most intimate skin, from effective plant-based hygiene routines to OB/GYN-developed solutions for common concerns.

Plans are already underway for next year’s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day taking place May 1-2, 2024, with 80% of the exhibitors already resigned over 90% of available exhibit space.  For more information about NYSCC visit www.nyscc.org.  For 2024 Suppliers’ Day exhibitor and sponsorship information email:  suppliersday@nyscc.org.

###

About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists, www.nyscc.org, strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry.  Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

Biodegradability considerations for cosmetic ingredients

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

The topic of “biodegradability” has become extremely important over recent years, but still may not be fully understood. The following is a basic overview for formulators and anyone wishing to know more about this critical issue. (Note that regulations, definitions, and practical guidelines on biodegradability are continually changing, and the comments in this blog are intended to offer general insights, not legal definitions or advice.)

Simply put, biodegradation is the breakdown of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi[1], and once broken down, the byproducts are carbon dioxide and water vapor. “Bio” is the key prefix here; the difference between “degradable” and “biodegradable” is that while “degradable” products can be broken down by chemical or biological processes, “biodegradable” materials can only be broken down by biological processes.

The concern for biodegradable products began with the issue of microplastics, first detected in the 1970s in the ocean as plastic residue, but not termed “microplastics” until the mid-2000s. (A good and comprehensive article on this by Napper and Thompson was published online in 2020[2].) Many multinational companies have stopped using microplastics (microbeads) in their formulations and other brands are following, but let’s clearly define what are, and are NOT, microplastics! To qualify as a microplastic, four criteria must be met:

  1. It must be a polymer
  2. It must be solid (at RT)
  3. It must be in particulate form
  4. It must be under 5mm in size

All four criteria must be met – if even a single one of these four is not present, the substance is NOT considered a microplastic. And to complicate matters further, there are many exclusions even if these four criteria are met, including the following:

  1. The material is natural
  2. The material is degradable
  3. Its solubility is > 2 g/liter
  4. No carbon atoms in its chemical structure
  5. Its release to the environment is prevented when used
  6. Its physical properties are permanently modified during end use
  7. It is permanently incorporated into a solid matrix during end use
  8. And likely more…

Just because your products may be “natural” does not mean they are “biodegradable” – measurement is key! As mentioned by Dr. Martin Perry, Advanced Development Safety Laboratories, at SCS Formulate in 2021: “Although natural content is good to know, and there is a perception that natural ingredients are more biodegradable than synthetic ones, knowing the biodegradability is important. The natural content of your product or your organic content is not going to be sufficient for you to substantiate anything on biodegradability.”[3]

To be precise, most companies adhere to the standard of “readily biodegradable”, defined as the ability of a product to biodegrade quickly and completely (≥ 60% by OECD 301A-F/ASTM D7373 testing) within 28 days. You might also hear the term “inherently biodegradable,” defined as between 20% and 60% biodegradability as measured by OECD 301A-F testing, but “readily biodegradable” is stricter and preferable.

From the OECD iLibrary: “The OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals is a collection of about 150 of the most relevant internationally agreed testing methods used by government, industry and independent laboratories to identify and characterize potential hazards of chemicals. They are a set of tools for professionals, used primarily in regulatory safety testing and subsequent chemical and chemical product notification, chemical registration and in chemical evaluation. They can also be used for the selection and ranking of candidate chemicals during the development of new chemicals and products and in toxicology research. This group of tests covers environmental fate and behaviour. In 2017, the section 3 “Degradation and Accumulation” was renamed to “Environmental fate and behaviour” to take into account Test Guidelines measuring endpoints such as dispersion, aggregation.”[4]

As a final note, microplastics and biodegradability concerns are part of a larger issue of minimizing environmental pollution. Some may equate this trend with the apparent discovery of reef damage caused by certain organic sun filters, specifically octinoxate and oxybenzone. There are bans in place on octinoxate and oxybenzone in many countries, including the US (Hawaii, Florida, US Virgin Islands), Aruba, Bonaire (off the coast of Venezuela), Palau and parts of Mexico. However, this is not a biodegradability issue as much as it is a toxicity issue, and the science is still unclear as to the actual effect of residual organic sunscreens on coral reefs.

  

[1] Focht DD. “Biodegradation”. AccessScience. doi:10.1036/1097-8542.422025.

[2] Napper & Thompson, “Plastic Debris in the Marine Environment: History and Future Challenges”. Global Challenges. doi: 10.1002/gch2.201900081.

[3] https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2021/11/18/Biodegradable-beauty-focus-needed-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert#

[4] https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/test-no-301-ready-biodegradability_9789264070349-en

 

Ben Blinder is the Executive Director, Business Operations at Gattefossé USA, with P/L responsibility for the personal care and pharmaceutical business units in the US and Mexico. He is also a founding member of the Advisory Committee on Diversity & Inclusion for Gattefossé in North America. Ben holds a BS in chemical engineering from Lehigh University.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day–Education & Innovation at Forefront of Leading Ingredients & Formulation Event

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day–Education & Innovation at Forefront of Leading Ingredients & Formulation Event

Reimagining Renewal & Wellness at Beauty & Personal Care Trade Show and Conference, May 2-3, at the Javits Center in New York City

(New York, New York, April 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) announces its educational program for Suppliers’ Day, taking place May 2-3, at the Jacob Javits Convention Center in New York City.  As North America’s most important ingredients and formulation event, Suppliers’ Day will provide the latest trends, scientific findings, global ingredients, raw materials and solutions that will invigorate and accelerate beauty and personal care product developments.

Curated by the NYSCC Scientific Committee, along with support from media and industry association partners, Suppliers’ Day will offer close to 100 hours of educational programming on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing beauty and personal care products including:

-Fireside Chat on green sciences, sustainability and more with a leading global beauty manufacturer

-Technical courses spearheaded by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee that take deep dives into: Hair & Scalp Renewal & Wellness and Biotechnology in Beauty & Personal Care

-Digital Age of Beauty focusing on key strategies, digital tools and innovative technologies that influence product development, and speed to market including AI and blockchain.

-Microbiome: Inside Out Beauty, with expert perspectives and unique insight on microbiome health from head to toe including oral and vaginal innovations.

– PCPC along with the EU’s IKW presenting:  Reimagining, Renewal, & Wellness:  Modernizing Cosmetics Regulations.

INDIE 360 covering every angle of launching and sustaining a brand and featuring a panel of founders sharing their stories including the challenges, opportunities and journeys to success.

-Two lunch and learns sponsored by industry partners covering Natural Ingredients, More Tech and Science Needed:  A Discussion with the Experts and Catching China’s Beauty Trends.”

-Fragrance: The Invisible Art is also returning to Suppliers’ Day and brings together expert perspectives from the essential players in creating the “invisible art”.

-Popular program tracks, opened to all attendees, will focus on green issues and reducing waste with Discover Sustainability, global sourcing and marketing trends from World of Chemistry; IBA’s Regulatory & Compliance Update; Innovations from the Exhibit Floor; and “Hot Topics” offering lightning sessions on oral care, DE&I, color, influencers, legal watch outs, and sustainable packaging.

-For the first time there will be a Influencer Chemist Panel: TRUTH IN BEAUTY

featuring The Eco Well, Chemist Confessions, NYSCC’s Influencer, Javon Ford and more.

 

-Pre-event SCC CEP Courses on Formulating Natural Oils and Butters for the Cosmetics Industry: Technical Background and Best Practices and Introduction to Sensory Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions.

 

“The theme, Reimagining Renewal & Wellness, will be evident throughout Suppliers’ Day by focusing on all elements that foster renewal and will shine a light on sustainable beauty,” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC. “The event will bridge how wellness, and eco-consciousness touches all areas of the industry and impacts new product development and business success.”

Continuing its mission to educate and involve the workforce of the future and students, Suppliers’ Day will also host the popular Future Chemists Workshop and hold a Mentor Lunch Mixer and Career Development Session.

The finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients & Formulation will be revealed at the NYSCC Industry Awards Night celebration on May 2nd at Second Floor NYC.

The expanded show floor will feature more than 500 global exhibitors showcasing novel ingredients, formulas, processing, advanced scientific testing equipment and more.  Dynamic areas on the show floor will provide an enhanced educational and wellness experience including the new Brazilian and Peru Pavilions, Re-Charge Station, Main Stage, Presentation Theater, Influencers Lounge, Future Chemists Workshop, University Row, Technical Poster Presentations Showcase, and an Indie Pavilion with 16+ juried brands.

Suppliers’ Day is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.  To register to attend and for more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

###

About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City, is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations.  For more information visit: www.nyscc.org,  Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Media Contact: Annie Scully, 201-310-9252, press@nyscc.org

 

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer,  North America at L’Oréal

Leading Beauty and Personal Care Ingredients and Formulation Event Takes Place

May 2-3 at the Javits Center in New York  

(New York, NY, April 2023)—NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) is pleased to announce that Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal, will participate in a one-on-one fireside chat on Wednesday, May 3rd at 9:00 am during Suppliers’ Day at the Javits Center in New York. This fireside chat will be moderated by Lan Vu, Founder & CEO of BEAUTYSTREAMS, focusing on L’Oréal’s open innovation strategy to achieve its green sciences and sustainability goals.

“We are thrilled to present this fireside chat as part of Suppliers’ Day,” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC.  “Mohamed’s impressive career in cosmetic science and now his role in spearheading L’Oréal’s open innovation activities in North America will be inspiring and engaging for Suppliers’ Day attendees.”

Kanji began his career at Revlon USA as a Chemist before joining L’Oréal USA in 1993 as a Senior Chemist in the Research and Development department. At L’Oréal, he developed mascara and liners for the Maybelline brand and gradually advanced through the ranks.

In 2008, Kanji became the Vice President of R&D Makeup Laboratories for Maybelline, where he led global development efforts, and along with his team launched several successful products, including the Dream Matte Mousse Foundation, Color Sensational Lip Color, ESSIE nail color, and the Colossal Mascara.  He also was instrumental in creating the R&I center in India.

In 2013, he was promoted to Senior Vice President, Research & Innovation for L’Oréal USA, where he managed the pre-development and development labs, Evaluation department, Micro Analytical Labs, and all the NJ-based R&I center-related activities across the USA, Canada, and Hispanic America.

Kanji’s current role is Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, where he is responsible for Open Innovation Activities & critical areas, including Scouting, Transformation, and Strategic Alliances. For Operational Excellence, he manages functions such as Analytical, Quality, IT, Facilities, and EHS, and oversees the development of L’Oréal’s new Research & Innovation hub for North America.

Suppliers’ Day, May 2-3, is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.  Additional educational programs offered this year will cover microbiome, hair care and wellness, bio-technologies, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors, hot topics, along with “Truth in Beauty: Sci-Comm Influencers Panel,” “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and “Indie 360”. Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship Mixer and a Career Development Day will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award.

For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, the leading North American event for beauty and personal care product development and to attend, visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

###

About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations.  For more information visit: www.nyscc.org. Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

Editor’s Note:  To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org

INDIE 360 Back at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with Larger Footprint and New Brand Innovations

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Media Contact:  Annie Scully, press@nyscc.org, 201-310-9252

INDIE 360° Back at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with Larger Footprint and New Brand Innovations

Beauty & Personal Care Independents and Creators to Participate at Leading Ingredients Event

(New York, New York, April 2023)—The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, held May 2 & 3 at the Javits Convention Center in New York, is the most important ingredients and raw materials exhibition in North America and is increasing its focus on consumer facing brands and activities like the INDIE360 Pavilion and Conference and the Influencer Lounge. The INDIE 360° Pavilion is dedicated to highlighting new to market indie beauty brands that have novel ingredients, formulations, and unique concepts.

This year the pavilion features 14 beauty companies that showcase innovation across all categories including skin and body care, hair, intimate wellness, and oral care. Innovations span across use of bioengineered ingredients and waterless formulas with an environmentally conscious approach, intimate care innovation, sustainable oral care, Korean herbal medicinal inspired remedies and genderless beauty. INDIE 360° Pavilion is hosted and curated in partnership with ACCESS BEAUTY INSIDERS led by exhibition and marketing industry veteran Daniela Ciocan.

New to Suppliers’ Day will be the INFLUENCER LOUNGE featuring leading voices in the social media space who are recognized as experts on the science of beauty. Attendees can meet with influencers including Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu of @chemistconfessions, Lisa Guerrera  (@lisagrrera) and Ana Allen (@approvedbyana.ca) on both days of the show at designated hours.  In addition, an Influencer Chemist Panel: Truth in Beauty, hosted by IBA will take place in the Main Stage on May 2nd.  This panel will be moderated by Jen Novakovich, (@theecowell) and include Javon Ford (@javonford16) and the Influencers from the lounge.

The INDIE 360°  Pavilion participants include:

ALEXANDRA ORGANIC:  a company founded in Greece and inspired by Greek mythology with its heritage of healing plants and full range of hair care and makeup products. www.alexandraorganics.com

ANELEY Cosmetics: an all-natural and organic makeup brand, made in the USA. Contains natural, breathable ingredients that are anti-inflammatory.  www.aneleycosmetics.com

ELIMS: is building the future of sustainable oral care. Crafted by dentists and biomedical engineers, its mission is to advance human health while reducing waste for the planet.  www.elims.co

INA LABS: founders, Susan Goldsberry (world-renowned cosmetic chemist) and Dr. Beri Ridgeway (leading OB/GYN), make clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman’s most intimate skin. www.inalabs.com

MADAME LEMY: an all-natural, luxurious body care brand. Its unique powder formula can be used as deodorant, body powder, dry shampoo and more. https://madamelemy.com

MANIFEST BEAUTY: is a clean, vegan, and cruelty-free beauty brand that empowers women to unleash their best selves through lip plumpers that amplify self-love and high vibrations. www.manifest-beauty.com

NICOLE RAVACHI: offers genderless beauty for all skin types in LATAM. Its mission is to simplify skincare and make beauty more accessible.  www.nicoleravachibrand.com

NULASTIN: female founded, is redefining what it means to be a beauty brand by focusing on performance-driven, scientifically backed, ethically derived elastin replenishment for lashes, brows, hair & skin. www.nulastin.com

PALMLESS: its nourishing oil is powered by Palmless™ Torula oil, a luxe new bio-designed oil made from yeast, not from trees and it contains unique carotenoids and sterols found only in the fungal kingdom. www.gopalmless.com

RAAKA’S WORLD: is an innovative beauty brand founded by Dr. Shobana Vankipuram, a first-generation woman physician whose mission is to empower women through easy, authentic, transformative self-care experiences. www.raakasworld.com

REPÚBLICA SKIN: Sugar Body Polish waterless formula is the ultimate skin indulgence with a rich blend of naturally derived oils and butters paired with finely milled, organic sugar creating a sensorial gentle exfoliation. www.republicaskin.com

ROOTS PROFESSIONAL/CLUB ROOTS: Roots Professional brings the most complete cosmeceutical science for superior hair growth to the salon market and Club Roots carries this tradition for both men and women into mass retail and more. www.clubroots.com

SIX GLDN: is transformative skincare for every skin type. Crafted with powerful botanicals and Korean herbal medicine it’s formulated for maximum results in five steps. www.sixgldn.com

TRUTH TREATMENTS: are topical nutritional formulas designed to heal skin and formulated by Benjamin Knight Fuchs, R.Ph., a dermatology pharmacist. www.truthtreatments.com

            The comprehensive INDIE 360° experience at Suppliers’ Day also includes a dedicated conference track, moderated and chaired by Luciana Coutinho, luluble, that explores every angle of bringing an independent brand to market.  Sessions will cover trends, financing, starting a beauty brand, preparing for MoCRA, and “Building the Future of Beauty,” with the female founders of C16 Biosciences, Ina Labs, Madame Lemy, and Nicole Ravachi Cosmetics.         A highlight of INDIE 360° will be the “People’s Choice Award,” where Suppliers’ Day attendees can vote for their favorite INDIE pavilion brand participant. This winner will be announced at a champagne toast at 3:00 p.m. on Wednesday, May 3rd.

Members of the press can join this year’s INDIE 360°  VIP Media Tour to meet founders from all participating companies on Wednesday May 2nd from 10:30am; RSVP required as only a limited number of spots are available.

Suppliers’ Day, May 2-3, is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.  Additional educational programs offered this year will cover microbiome, hair care and wellness, biotechnology, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors and hot topics.  “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and a L’Oreal Fireside Chat are also offered. The Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship Mixer and a Career Development Day will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award.

For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and to register to attend, visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

###

About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations.  For more information visit: www.nyscc.org. Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

 

Editor’s Note:  To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day and RSVP for the I INDIE 360°  Media Tour contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org

 

 

Sunscreen formulations – emphasis on inorganic sunscreens

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Ever since the FDA published their proposed monograph ruling in February 2019 recognizing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as the only Category I (Safe and Effective) sunscreens, a cascade of reformulations of most sunscreens products on the US market took place.  Inorganic sunscreen formulations are now center-stage and are slowly replacing organic sunscreen formulations.  In fact, the trend started in 2018 when the state of Hawaii proposed a ban on Octinoxate and Oxybenzone stating that these two sunscreens have a negative effect on coral reefs.  Now that the ban is in effect, another bill is proposing to ban sunscreens containing Octocrylene and Avobenzone for the same reasons.  It is true that many regulatory bodies including the FDA did not support the Hawaiian ban, and the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) is addressing the proposed monograph rulings. All these actions might lead to uncertain outcomes.  In fact, in a few years the US consumers might be limited to the use of products containing inorganic sunscreens only (with the exception of Ensulizole and Ecamsule).  There is some hope that certain Time and Extent (T&E) molecules are being reviewed by the FDA and may be approved for launch.  Bemotrizinol is a front-runner and its use in formulation is quite good as it protects both in the UVB and UVA areas.

Selecting the right inorganic sunscreen

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide not only refract light but also absorb it.  The refractive index of titanium dioxide is 2.8 whereas that of zinc oxide is only 2.0.  This makes titanium dioxide much more effective at scattering light in a formulation.  From and absorption point of view, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have conductance bands around 3.4 and 3.1 eV, respectively.  This makes zinc oxide a bit more efficient in protecting against UVA rays and titanium dioxide more efficient at shielding UVB rays.  As particle size decreases you get much more pronounced blue shift due to a change in the band-gap width.  For example, a 0.15 eV blue shift has been reported for 4.7 nm titanium dioxide compared to bulk.

Keep in mind, when particles become smaller than their optimal light scattering size (typically half their wavelength) they become much more transparent.  For example, zinc oxide becomes transparent at below 200 nm whereas titanium dioxide becomes transparent at sizes around 10-20 nm.  This makes formulating with zinc oxide much easier to achieve transparent formulations but harder to reach high SPF due to its performance in the UVB region.

Sometimes the so-called “boosters” can help many formulators resort to using salicylates as UVB boosters in their formulations.  Butyl octyl salicylate is not an approved sunscreen in the US but many formulators use it to boost their inorganic sunscreen SPF while claiming no organic sunscreens added.

Dispersion versus powder

The choice to use inorganic sunscreens as powder or dispersions in formulations is a very polarizing decision and many formulators prefer to use one type over the other.  In general, dispersions claim to have a smaller primary particle size which results in better dispersion of the pigment into the emulsion and leads to higher SPF and less whitening on the skin.  However, dispersions come at about 50% w/w solvent/pigment which limits the flexibility the formulator to tweak the formulation.  In addition, when working with w/o or w/Si formulations, it is harder to control the viscosity of such emulsions when using dispersions.  In these types of emulsions, the viscosity is built by the internal phase (water).  Using dispersions  ultimately increases the amount of external phase and reduces the amount of water used which will make such emulsions less viscous and less stable.

The use of powders, on the on the other hand, gives the formulator a lot of flexibility and reduces the cost of the formulation.  Although, when using powders, it is important to have manufacturing capability to grind the pigments at the factory scale to reduce agglomeration and produce formulations with good aesthetics.

Selecting emulsion type

Most inorganic sunscreen formulations on the market are w/o or w/Si emulsions.  These types of emulsions are much easier to preserve, as you only preserve the internal phase, and their pH does not fluctuate since they are anhydrous.  These types of emulsions inherently have very good water resistance as well.  Some of the drawbacks of w/o emulsions are their greasy feel mainly imparted by the surfactants and co-surfactants used. They tend to be more whitening on the skin and harder to spread.  W/Si emulsion have a superior end-feel, but they are not particularly biodegradable or earth-friendly by today’s standards.  They share the same characteristics as w/o emulsions when it comes to preservation, pH and water resistance.  In general w/Si emulsions are harder to stabilize and require the use of more than one surfactant to obtain stable emulsions.

It is very rare to see o/w emulsion formulations on the market, since they are harder to preserve and stabilize.  The presence of zinc oxide ultimately shifts pH towards 7.5 which renders most preservatives less effective.  In addition, at that pH very few polymers work well at stabilizing such emulsions especially naturally derived polymers.  On the other hand, these emulsions typically have a nicer feel on the skin and could be cost effective.

Adding a film former or SPF booster

Selecting a film-former or SPF booster for the emulsion is a critical step and one that should not be avoided.  The selection of the appropriate polymer depends mostly on the experience of the formulator and the in vivo results previously obtained with such polymer.  Many polymers are marketed to the formulators and some of them could work in one formulation or another.  However, it is crucial that the film former works across many formulations and especially in vivo since such tests are quite costly and hard to schedule.  As scientists, we should always test the formulations in vitro for water resistance and SPF to ensure that the addition of the polymer will give the desired results.  This will enable the formulator to refine the level of polymer in the emulsion as well.

In conclusion, I hope I shed some light on formulating inorganic sunscreen emulsions and I leave it up to the creativity of formulators to create excellent formulations with great aesthetics and high SPF.

Biography

Dr. Fares started his career in personal care studying the effect of solvents on sunscreen chemicals.  His interest in skin drug delivery especially from polymeric matrices grew during his graduate work at Rutgers, where he received his Ph. D.

Dr. Fares worked at Block Drug and GlaxoSmithKline where he held positions in research and development in the areas of skincare and oral care.  After that, he joined L’Oréal where he held several positions of increasing responsibility leading to AVP of skincare.  He is currently the Senior Director of skincare and oral care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients.  Dr. Fares is the author of many publications, and patents and made many presentations in national and international meetings in the areas of suncare, skincare, and oral care.  Dr Fares chairs the NYSCC scientific committee and has won multiple awards in the areas of sun care and polymer chemistry.