james.runkle@drummondst.com, Author at NYSCC

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Announces 2022 Executive Board

December 6, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Leaders Representing Prominent Ingredient and Formulation Suppliers and Manufacturers

will Guide the Chapter’s Future Direction

(New York, NY, November 2021) – The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) announced and installed its new executive board for 2022 during its Education & Awards Night Ceremony on November 10^th at HK Hall in New York City. Liz Streeland, President, National SCC, presided over the installation. The 2022 NYSCC Executive Board includes:

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair
Chief Science Officer, Nutrafol
Susanna Fernandes, Advisor/Past Chairman
Lead E-Sales Executive, TRI-K
Mohamed Abdulla, Treasurer
Account Manager- HPC- East Coast, Oxiteno
Alex Blakeman, Treasurer Elect
Director of Technologies, Superior Materials Inc.
Luciana Coutinho, Secretary
Founder and Chief Product Officer, LULUBLE, INC.
Stacey House, Chair-Elect
Head of Product Development and Innovation for KDC/One’s Beauty and Personal Care Division

“I am excited to take over from my predecessor, Susanna, who led the Chapter to new heights in programming, engagement, and after two years, the successful return of our in-person Suppliers’ Day event,” said Giorgio Dell’Acqua, incoming Chair, NYSCC. “With the help and guidance of the new board, committee members and volunteers I will continue this chapter’s legacy of focusing on education in cosmetic science as well as seeking collaborations with organizations instrumental to the chapter. Science and sustainability will be strong building blocks of many of the Chapter’s upcoming activities and programs.”

Dell’Acqua and the 2022 NYSCC Executive Board also plan to expand and grow the programs that will help the chapter’s youngest members succeed in the industry including the Future Chemists Workshop at Suppliers’ Day, a robust Mentorship/Mentee database, as well as career and professional development programs.

To become more involved in the NYSCC Chapter Community, please fill out the volunteer form at https://nyscc.org/2020-2021-volunteer-form/.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Reunites the Beauty Industry for Most Comprehensive Ingredients & Formulations Event in North America

November 28, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

The beauty and personal care product development community came together, November 10^th and 11^th for one of the most important Suppliers’ Day in its history, according to association executives with NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists). More than 6,800 registrants eager to find solutions to current challenges, met with over 380 exhibitors across 75,000 sq. ft. of exhibit space at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. This engagement will continue over the coming month with Suppliers’ Day “Virtual Month of Beauty” continuing to capture new registrants since its kick-off on November 12^th.

“Exhibitors and attendees alike were energized by the look, feel and size of the show as well as the number of people who attended – and most importantly with the high quality of attendees who were present,” said Susanna Fernandes, Chair, NYSCC. “Every inch of the show reverberated our theme of Embracing Beauty and Celebrating What We Create!”

Noteworthy was the international participants, from 30 countries including Australia, France, Italy, United Kingdom, as well as from countries in Africa, Asia, and South America, who were able to attend as the travel restrictions were beginning to be lifted in November.

“NYSCC Suppliers’ Day delivered on its promise of producing a high quality face-to-face event for the industry despite the many obstacles and travel restrictions still in place because of the global pandemic. Our engagement with attendees and leads from the event exceeded our expectations. We were able to have meaningful and non-rushed conversations with our customers and new prospects. The event and awards night ceremony provided a safe environment for us to get back to business and network. We are really looking forward to Suppliers’ Day in May of 2022,” said Marie Thadal, M.B.A., Business Development Executive-Americas, Coptis Inc.

A highlight of Suppliers’ Day was the debut of the INDIE360 Program, an immersive educational and sourcing experience providing up and coming indie brands with insight, information and resources needed to succeed. It featured a half-day conference that included lively panel discussions with leading founders and an INDIE Pavilion that spotlighted newer to market companies who are utilizing unique ingredients and formulations. The INDIE360 program was moderated and chaired by Luciana Coutinho, Luluble, with panels and pavilion participants curated by Daniela Ciocan, Access Beauty Insiders.

Suppliers’ Day also boasted standing-room only Presentation Theater sessions that included tracks focused on green beauty, sustainability and certification (Discover Sustainability) and the global beauty marketplace (The World of Chemistry). Kicking off the show was a ribbon-cutting ceremony that featured NYSCC and SCC leaders of today and tomorrow, as well as executives who were instrumental in ensuring a safe and successful live Suppliers’ Day in NYC.

“As President of SCC it was a thrill for me to witness and be a part of Suppliers’ Day taking place live at the Javits Center. The energy and buzz in the exhibit hall was exhilarating and underscores how important in-person events are for discovering new innovations and business-building,” said Liz Streland, 2021 National President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists and Senior Account Manager, Nagase Specialty Materials.

“As an exhibitor, we were very pleased with the depth of conversations that we had with attendees and the leads generated from the event.”

The Future Chemists Workshop hosted dozens of college students from Rutgers, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Long Island University, University of Miami Health Systems, Montclair State University, Fashion Institute of Technology, and The University of Toledo who competed in mini-challenges for the best formulation. The NYSCC Mentorship Committee hosted a Breakfast Mixer and Information Session with the launch of a robust Mentor/Mentee database.

The Digital Age of Beauty returned with presentations on trends, predictive analytics, modeling and a look at the “digital” buying process as did Fragrance: The Invisible Art with all the essential players involved in this categories development. New programs, in addition to INDIE360 at Suppliers’ Day included a Clean and Natural Beauty Panel, Back to Powerful Beauty with Peclers Paris, a Regulatory & Compliance program presented by IBA and a special presentation on Conscious Inclusion from business communication strategist, Shakira M. Brown.

The NYSCC Education & Awards Night event took place on Wednesday, November 10^th at HK HALL and showcased the CEW Beauty Creator’s Award: Ingredients and Formulation finalists, as well as the Judges who represented iconic brands such as Chanel, Estee Lauder, Glossier, H2O and BeautyStat. Granpowder BBP-700 from Grant Industries was announced the winner and will be recognized again at the full CEW Beauty Creator Awards Virtual Program taking place on December 1.

NYSCC also hosted a People’s Choice Award where attendees casted their vote for the most innovative brand in both ingredients, delivery, branding/packaging in the INDIE360 Pavilion. The curated companies that participated included: Chemist Confessions, Dr. J’s Naturals, Hear Me Raw, Immunocologie, Masami, Opulus Beauty Labs, Organic Apoteke, Skin Moderne and Urban Hydration. BOSSING UP, an association that spotlights black owned beauty business from NYC neighborhoods and communities also participated with Bree & Milly, Exuding Wellness, Just Because Hair NYC, Lovely Leo Skincare and MaDawes hair products.

The inaugural People’s Choice Award winner was Skin Moderne, a brand that has been relentless in the pursuit of clean, effective skincare and technology.

“Skin Moderne is dedicated to fostering a culture of innovation for skin wellness. We continuously probe, search, experiment, and craft new ways to improve our ingredients, technologies, and skincare products,” said Richard Purvis, CEO of Skin Moderne, who was present at the champagne reception to accept the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day People’s Choice Award.

Plans are already underway for the 2022 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day returning to its traditional timeframe of May 3-4, again at the Javits Center, with more than 70% exhibitors already resigned. “The show floor for Suppliers’ Day 2022 will be as large as our expanded area in 2019. NYSCC will also strengthen its industry and media partnerships and continue to work closely with its members and the SCC to create the best global ingredients event for the industry, by the industry,” said Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair-Elect, NYSCC. “Next year, the latest in cosmetic science and sustainability will be core focuses of the Chapter.”

Granpowder BBP-700 from Grant Industries Inc. is the 2021 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards Winner

November 11, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

(New York, NY, November 2021) — Granpowder BBP-700 from Grant Industries Inc. was announced as a winner of a prestigious CEW Beauty Creators Awards at the NYSCC Education & Awards Night Ceremony at HK Hall in New York City. In advance of the CEW Beauty Creators Awards event on December 1^st, Grant’s Granpowder BBP-700 was named the winner in a specialty category for Supplier’s: Ingredients & Formulation during the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Week of Beauty.

This CEW Beauty Creators Award category, sponsored by New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC), recognizes the role that ingredients, formulation and new technology plays in successful beauty and personal care product launches.

Grant was one of eight finalist that were selected from more than 40 submissions that were reviewed and voted upon by a curated panel of judges that included leading beauty and personal care brands including members of the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee. The judges were: Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel; Geraldine Molina, Head of R&I, Glossier; Ron Robinson, Founder/CEO, BeautyStat.com; Mike Wong, VP Technical Services, H2O+; and Tao Zheng, Director, Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estee Lauder Companies.

The other CEW Supplier Award finalists were: Actera Ingredients for FOLLICIN; BASF Corporation for PeptAIde™ 4.0; Eastman Chemical Company for Eastman GEM™ retinyl sunflowerate; EverCare for Mineral Body SPF 50 Sunscreen; Geltor, Inc.for HumaColl21®; MANA for Clean Screen Mineral Serum SPF 50; and SurfactGreen for CosmeGreen ES1822+

Comments from the panel of Judges on why Grant’s Granpowder BBP-700 was selected as the winner, include: “This is an answer to many needs that the cosmetic scientists need today to address the replacement of synthetic powders.” “BBP-700 is a great soft focus material, texturizer, and can be used in all categories of makeup and skincare.” “Created with an innovative bio-fermentation process and an amino acid derivative, it is a good alternative to some microplastic powder.” “Bio based, biodegradable, and highly functional, this powder has blown my socks off.”

At NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, November 11^th, at the Jacob Javits Convention Center, all the finalists submissions will be displayed in Product Showcases for attendees to learn more about how these new ingredients and formulations address an immediate need in the industry and the movement for clean chemistry and sustainability in beauty and personal care product.

Grant’s Granpowder BBP-700 will also be acknowledged at the virtual reveal of the 2021 CEW Beauty Creators Awards winners in all categories on December 1^st.

What’s Hot in Beauty & Personal Care Ingredients & Product Innovations

November 9, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

WHAT: New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day

WHEN: November 10-11, 2021

WHERE: Jacob K. Javits Convention, 11^th Avenue & 38^th Street, New York, NY

EXHIBIT HOURS: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m., Wednesday, November 10

9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Thursday, November 11

WHY: Suppliers’ Day is the main ingredients and formulations event in North America for beauty and personal care brand owners and manufacturers seeking new products, trends and technologies in cosmetic chemistry.

Highlights of the trade show and conference include:

-The debut of INDIE360 program, an immersive educational and sourcing experience providing up and coming indie brands with insight, information and resources needed to succeed. The program will foster connections between indie brands and suppliers and spotlights newer to market companies who are utilizing unique ingredients and formulations. A People’s Choice Award for best Indie Brand at Suppliers’ Day will be presented on Thursday, Nov. 11.

-INDIE360 also includes founders speaking and participating in panel discussions including Indie Lee, Indie Lee, INDIE LEE Cosmetics; Jeanine Lobell, NEEN; Dr Robb Akridge, OPULUS BEAUTY LABSs: Alison Cutlan, BIOPHILE; Malaika Jones Kebede BROWN GIRL JANE; Ron Robinson, BEAUTYSTAT: and Stephanie DiPisa, SOLARA SUNCARE.

-Hundreds of exhibiting companies and new North American product launches including Allergisa, Applechem, Ashland, Bitop, BRB North America, Coptis. Creo Inc., Delavie, Deveraux Specialties DSM, Genomatica, McKinley Resources, Inc., Mibelle Biochemistry, Micropowders, Nagase, Phibrochem, Synergio, Ultra Chemical and many more.

-New programs on relevant industry topics including “Back to Powerful Beauty,” “Clean & Natural Beauty Panel,” and a “Conscious Inclusion” presentation.

-Relevant content for cosmetic scientists and product development teams including Digital Age of Beauty, Discover Sustainability, Fragrance: The Invisible Art, and a Regulatory & Compliance Update.

-Future Chemists Workshop featuring top chemistry students creating new formulations in a challenged based program, Mentorship Breakfast Mixer & Information Session, University Row and NYSCC & SCC sponsored Career Fair.

-NYSCC Education & Awards Night ceremony on Nov. 10^th, celebrating being “Back to NYC” and the finalists and winner of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award along with student scholarships, grants and installation of 2022 Chapter Officers.

-Suppliers’ Day Virtual Kick-Off on November 12^th, featuring even more exhibitors and resources along with specially designed content and engagement opportunities.

VISUALS:

The latest in cosmetics, skin care, hair care, fragrance and personal care ingredients
Anti-aging, skin brightening, and sun protection products
Organic, natural, green, and sustainable products and techniques
Formulation trends for 2022 and beyond
Dazzling displays of color, beauty and hair care trends, skin analysis devices and more
Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony with NYSCC Board Members, Incoming Board Members, Industry Partners, NYC tourism members, and Javits Center officials

INDIE BEAUTY COMPANIES IN THE SPOTLIGHT AT SUPPLIERS’ DAY

November 3, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

INTRODUCING INDIE360: A NEW PROGRAM SHOWCASING FOUNDER VOICES & A CURATED PAVILION

(New York, NY, November 3^rd, 2021) NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) is pleased to announce the debut of INDIE360 program at the upcoming Suppliers’ Day event taking place November 10 and 11 at Javits Convention Center. INDIE360 is an immersive educational and sourcing experience providing up and coming indie brands with insight, information and resources needed to succeed.

The program was created to foster connections between indie brands and suppliers and allow for open communication as well as to spotlight newer to market companies who are utilizing unique ingredients or combination of ingredients. The INDIE 360 program is moderated and chaired by Luciana Coutinho with panels and pavilion participants curated by Daniela Ciocan, Access Beauty Insiders. The pavilion and all associated programming was made possible by the support of luluble, Gattefosse, Grant Industries and TRI-K.

The program will kick off with a half-day conference on Wednesday November 10^th from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., moderated by Luciana Coutinho, incoming NYSCC Secretary and founder of luluble. “The INDIE360 program at this year’s Suppliers’ Day is an exciting addition,” said Susanna Fernandes, Chair NYSCC. “It truly embodies our theme of “Embracing Beauty: A Celebration of What We Create” with these pioneering entrepreneurs who are redefining beauty and the personal care landscape.”

The half-day INDIE360 conference program will feature 4 sessions and will commence with a presentation from MINTEL on “The Future of Color Cosmetics”, followed by a round table discussion “From Startup to Market Leaders” hosted by Daniela Ciocan, ACCESS BEAUTY INSIDERS who is joined by leading entrepreneurs Indie Lee, INDIE LEE Cosmetics; Jeanine Lobell, NEEN; Dr Robb Akridge, OPULUS BEAUTY LABS. “PASSIONATE ABOUT INGREDIENTS” will be a lively panel discussion on trending ingredients and hot topics of the moment with founders Alison Cutlan, BIOPHILE; Malaika Jones Kebede BROWN GIRL JANE, Ron Robinson, BEAUTYSTAT and Stephanie DiPisa, SOLARA SUNCARE led by Daniela Ciocan. The program will close with a very of the moment topic “NAVIGATING THE SUPPLY CHAIN ISSUES” presented by Independent Beauty Association chair Elizabeth Corrigan with guest Jim MacPherson of OLAPLEX Inc.

The INDIE360 pavilion highlights fresh ideas and concepts from indie companies who are utilizing unique combinations of ingredients. Companies spotlighted include Chemist Confessions, Dr. J’s Naturals, Hear Me Raw, Immunocologie, Masami, Opulus Beauty Labs, Organic Apoteke, Skin Moderne and Urban Hydration. Show attendees will be able to meet with the founders of these companies and vote for the ‘PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD’ with the winner being announced on Thursday November 11^th over a champagne reception starting at 3 p.m.

BOSSING UP, an association that spotlights black owned beauty business from NYC neighborhoods and communities will be part of the INDIE360 program highlighting Bree & Milly, Exuding Wellness, Just Because Hair NYC, Lovely Leo Skincare and MaDawes hair products.

Suppliers’ Day is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents. Unique educational programs offered this year include “Fragrance: The Invisible Art”, “Back to Powerful Beauty”, “Conscious Inclusion”, “Clean & Natural Beauty” panel, “Digital Age of Beauty”, “Discover Sustainability”, “World of Chemistry”, and a “Regulatory Update” session. “Future Chemists Workshop” ,“Mentor / Mentee” Informational Breakfast, and a SCC/NYSCC Co-sponsored Career Fair will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Education & Awards Night Ceremony will take place on November 10th at HK Hall and feature the announcement of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award winner.

A virtual Suppliers’ Day will be held on November 12th featuring additional suppliers that weren’t able to attend the in-person event and will highlight more outstanding learning programs. For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day or to register to attend both LIVE and VIRTUAL visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org, Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

Editor’s Note: To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org.

Beauty Tech in Hair Care

November 1, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Technology touches every aspect of our lives, and the influence of technology in beauty and cosmetics has grown in recent times globally, becoming a quite interesting playground of opportunity for consumers, big multinational brands, and entrepreneurs. There have been increasingly more examples of beauty tech advancements in skin care; however, offerings for beauty tech in hair care have been limited in comparison. This blog provides an overview of beauty tech and examples of how technology has advanced the consumer beauty care experience, specifically within the hair care space.

Exploration of Beauty Tech

From a global perspective, beauty tech and innovation has been popular in Asia, with advancements making their way west as consumers become more advanced, engaged, and open to new things. At the core, all consumer desire the same thing – efficacy. I think of beauty tech as an opportunity to empower consumers to have a more meaningful, convenient & effective beauty care experience. This can be achieved through multiple channels: devices, artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR) to name a few.

Devices

A beauty device is any electrically powered hardware that is used for a specific purpose within the beauty or grooming experience. Consumers are most familiar with devices given their use of styling implements such as blow dryers, flat irons, hot rollers, etc. The global beauty devices market is expected to grow from roughly $39 billion in 2018 to $107 billion by 2024 (1). A highlight of interesting devices for hair care follows.

Independent beauty tech company, THE MOST, offers two innovative devices that address convenience and care in the styling of textured hair. The Mint is a tool that allows the user to insert prefilled cartridges, “Mint Minis,” of hair products, into The Mint, which then heats the product and dispenses it from the device’s bristles (2, 3). The result is a quicker grooming experience due to simultaneous product application and detangling, a step that can generally take a while depending on the curl pattern, length, and density of the hair. From an automated mechanical perspective, the company has developed the Knot Your Average Sonic Detangler Brush, a brush with comb-like bristles that oscillate to efficiently detangle curly and coily hair.

Devices that address hair concerns such as growth and scalp health are penetrating the market due to increased consumer focus in these areas. Cosmetics Design-Europe recently reported on one such example – the Verdure LED Hair Regrowth Scalp Activator, a device that uses light stimulation and ionic vibration to help stimulate hair growth (4). Another example is the BeautyBio GloPro Scalp Attachment, a tool that reportedly supports the appearance of hair growth through the microneedling action of the device. This scalp stimulation helps to reawaken the scalp, promote blood and nutrient circulation, and reduce buildup. Additionally, there is considerable patent activity for upcoming hair growth devices (5).

As sustainability is a key driver for innovation, some companies have leveraged technology to impact areas such as water usage and waste (6). L’Oréal has collaborated with Gjosa to devise a water-saving showerhead and dispensing system for salons and future home use. The L’Oréal Water Saver works by a water micronization technology; micronized product is mixed into the high-pressure, small droplet water stream of the showerhead, thereby resulting in up to 80% reduction in water usage vs. a standard showerhead (7). The Réduit One hair and skin care device addresses waste reduction by utilizing pods containing concentrated ingredients, and a dispensing mechanism that delivers the product in a mist of tiny droplets. The benefit is improved efficacy and 20 times less waste vs. standard products (6). The 5 mL Hairpods (and Skinpods), which are equivalent 200 mL or 50 mL of standard hair or skin care products, respectively, can be returned for recycling when they are empty.

Artificial Intelligence (AI)

Artificial intelligence (AI) and automated data processing has enabled beauty tech to do remarkable new things. AI works by mining data to offer personalized solutions. A relatable example of this is Lancôme’s make-up mixing station which works as follows: a customer’s skin is evaluated by a colorimeter, the color data is processed using an algorithm that then outputs the best combination of pigments to produce the consumer’s perfectly matched shade of foundation.

For hair care, AI has been particularly useful for diagnostic tools and product recommendations. Hair AI by John Paul Mitchell Systems consists of a scanner/zoom lens that can be attached to a smartphone camera and an app that then analyzes the image of the hair and scalp to provide insight such as condition and relevant products. This diagnostic tool is specifically for use by hair care professionals. Myavana is a platform and app that provides personalized hair care product recommendations and guidance to subscribers with textured hair using a combination of AI, technical analyses of the subscribers’ hair and one-on-one stylist consultations. Additionally, the latest offering from Myavana is an app that utilizes image recognition technology and AI to analyze an image of the consumer’s hair for the purpose of recommending suitable products (8).

Augmented Reality (AR)

Augmented reality (AR) is a technology in which a new experience is simulated based on the overlay of information and virtual objects on real-world scenes in real-time (9). That new experience could be as simple as a new appearance (think applying a filter that adds features such as eyelashes to your favorite selfie) or as complex as interacting with products in a store. A useful example of AR in hair care is virtual hair color apps such as Clairol MyShade and the Milton Reed “Try On” Tool. These tools provide consumers with the valuable and convenient experience of “trying on” different hair colors before committing to a coloring treatment with potentially long-lasting effects. Simply upload a picture or live stream from your smartphone! The key opportunity for AR in the future will be in creating fully immersive shopping and wellness experiences (10).

Conclusion

Beauty tech centers on leveraging advanced technical capabilities to address a need and introduce convenience and personalization to the beauty care experience. I hope this blog inspires readers to think of the untapped opportunities that exist in hair care, for which the use of technology such as devices, AI and AR can offer advancement. The cosmetic industry has done a great job of delivering chemistries and formulations to address consumer needs, and the compliment of technology will propel us even further in our quest to deliver next level hair care benefits and experiences. Beauty tech can offer viable solutions for improved care and efficacy, inclusivity / personalization, and sustainability in the beauty industry.

References

Fulton, B. (2020, November 10). At-home beauty tech sees a lockdown boom. https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/at-home-beauty-tech-sees-a-lockdown-boom
Myers, D. (2019, March 20). U.S. Patent US20200093248A1. Enhanced hair product application with concurrent styling.
Graham, M. (2018, December 18). Meet Dawn Myers, founder and CEO of The Most. https://www.lifewire.com/meet-dawn-myers-founder-and-ceo-of-the-most-5092881
Lim, A. (2021, October 19). Verdure says underserved hair care market due for a tech upgrade. https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2021/10/19/Verdure-says-underserved-hair-care-market-due-for-a-tech-upgrade
McDougall, A. (2021, May 31). The future of haircare, styling & colour: 2021 [Industry Report]. Mintel. https://www.mintel.com
Di Gesu, R. (2021, April 31). A year of innovation in haircare, styling & colour, 2021 [Industry Report]. Mintel. https://www.mintel.com
L’Oréal Articles. (2021, August 1). L’Oréal water saver: using water sustainably in salon and at-home. Available at https://www.loreal.com/en/articles/science-and-technology/loreal-water-saver-the-new-sustainable-haircare-system
Pernell, A. (2020, June 22). Myavana launches new mobile app for hair product recommendations from a photo. Available at https://urbangeekz.com/2020/06/myavana-launches-new-mobile-app-for-hair-product-recommendations-from-a-photo
Fjermedal, G. (2021, April 9). Beauty tech: the complete guide 2021. Available at https://www.perfectcorp.com/business/blog/general/the-complete-guide-to-beauty-tech?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI76ehvfrl8wIVAgaICR3xRgSMEAMYASAAEgIv4vD_BwE
(2021, October 23). Alternative Realities [Industry Trend Report]. https://www.mintel.com

Biography

Dr. Amber Evans is a cosmetic industry professional with over a decade of experience in research and innovation. In her current position as Senior Manager of Product Development at Moroccanoil, she leverages her technical expertise to help drive the global launch of prestige hair & body care products. Prior to Moroccanoil, she worked as a development scientist at ingredient supplier BASF Corporation, where her contributions spanned multiple market segments, including hair, body, and oral care. She also previously supported initiatives such as upstream research for hair colorants and clinical testing for skin/shave care applications at Procter & Gamble.

Dr. Evans holds a Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences (Cosmetic Science focus) from University of Cincinnati and a B.S. in Chemistry from North Carolina Agricultural & Technical State University. She has authored hair care research publications, contributed content to NaturallyCurly.com, the leading resource for textured hair care, and featured on multiple platforms that support aspiring scientists and early career professionals. As a mentor, active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC), peer reviewer for the Journal of Cosmetic Science and editorial advisory board member for Global Cosmetic Industry (GCI) Magazine, Dr. Evans is dedicated to influencing the progression of the cosmetic field.

Disclaimer: All views expressed are my own and do not represent the opinions of any entity whatsoever with which I have been, am now or will be affiliated. The mentioning of technologies herein does not constitute an endorsement.

CEW Reveals Finalists of the Supplier’s Award in its Prestigious Beauty Creators Awards Program

August 16, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

CEW Reveals Finalists of the Supplier’s Award in its Prestigious Beauty Creators Awards Program

(New York, NY, July 2021)—CEW has revealed the eight finalists of the Supplier’s Award: Ingredients & Formulation, part of its prestigious renamed Beauty Creators Awards. Sponsored by New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC), the award category recognizes the role that ingredients, formulation and new technology plays in successful product launches.

The 2021 CEW Supplier’s Award: Ingredients & Formulation finalists are:

-Actera Ingredients: FOLLICIN–an active ingredient for hair growth, based on the revolutionary discovery of olfactory receptors inside our hair follicle

-BASF Corporation: PeptAIde™ 4.0–offers a safe and nature-based solution for hair and skin damage caused by silent inflammation

-Eastman Chemical Company: Eastman GEM™ retinyl sunflowerate–a pro-retinol derivative composed of retinol and sunflower fatty acids

-EverCare: Mineral Body SPF 50 Sunscreen–achieves high SPF and UVA protection for everyday wear without the worry of unattractive white casting

-Geltor, Inc.: HumaColl21® –world’s first bioidentical human collagen ingredient for topical skincare and certified vegan

-Grant Industries Inc.: Granpowder BBP-700–a fused hybrid composite of bio-fermented powder and amino acid derivative

-MANA: Clean Screen Mineral Serum SPF 50–weightless, clean & vegan, mineral serum absorbs quickly & delivers intense moisturization & powerful protection

-SurfactGreen: CosmeGreen ES1822+–100% biosourced, cationic surfactant with superior smoothing, strengthening, color retention & detangling benefits

The finalists were selected from more than 40 submissions that were reviewed and voted upon by a curated panel of judges that included leading beauty and personal care brands including members of the NYSCC Program Committees. The judges were: Eileen Kim; Geraldine Molina, Glossier; Ron Robinson, BeautyStat.com; Mike Wong, H2O+; and Tao Zheng, The Estee Lauder Companies.

These judges will participate in a special NYSCC webinar: “CEW BEAUTY CREATORS AWARDS: A Conversation with the Judges on Ingredients & Formulations!” on Thursday, July 15^th at 12 Noon, EDT. This live panel will be moderated by Andrea Nagel, VP–Content, CEW, and provide insight on what the judges found most interesting and unique about this year’s finalists.

The winner of the CEW Supplier’s Award will be announced on November 3^rd during its Beauty Creators Awards ceremony. The Supplier’s Award winner will also be acknowledged and recognized, along with all the finalists, during the in-person NYSCC Suppliers’ Day taking place November 10-11, 2021 at the Javits Convention Center in New York City.

“NYSCC Is proud to be an annual sponsor of this CEW award focused exclusively on ingredients and formulations. This award champions and brings to the forefront the important role cosmetic science plays in product development and brand innovation,” said Susanna Fernandes, Chairman, NYSCC.

This year’s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day theme will be “Embracing Beauty: A Celebration of What We Create,” and will take place in-person November 10-11 at the Javits Center and have a Virtual Day on November 12^th. It will be North America’s main event for beauty and personal care industry education, engagement, new product announcements, awards, and more. For more information visit www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists, www.nyscc.org, strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City, is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org,

Registration is Open for Suppliers’ Day

August 12, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Embracing Beauty

Registration is Open for North America’s Main Trade Show for Cosmetic Chemistry Innovations & Formulations

(New York, NY, August 2021)—Attendee registration is now open for the in-person NYSCC (New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) Suppliers’ Day, taking place November 10-11, 2021, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York, New York. Suppliers’ Day is the must-attend event for all those seeking innovation, education and business connections in the beauty and personal care industries.

Cosmetic chemists, ingredient executives including R&D professionals involved in ingredient/strategic sourcing, formulation experts, and professionals involved in marketing beauty and personal products are encouraged to register for this highly anticipated event click here.

“We are excited to be able to come together for two days of insights, innovations and networking to help propel the industry forward. The theme of the event is ‘Embracing Beauty,’ and will focus on overcoming challenges and formulating for inclusivity and diversity, while inspiring creativity and novel product development,” said Susanna Fernandes, Chair, NYSCC.

The Suppliers’ Day exhibit floor will showcase more than 400 top suppliers and distributors displaying new ingredients and formulations, services and technologies, with some debuting in North America at Suppliers’ Day for the first time.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will also offer an educational program on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing beauty and personal care products including:

-INDIE 360
-Formulating for Inclusion
-Fragrance Creator’s Association Panel
-All About Color with Peclers
-NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee Curated Session
-Core Suppliers’ Day Programs on Digital Age of Beauty, Discover Sustainability, World of Chem and a Regulatory and Compliance Update

A virtual Suppliers’ Day will also kick-off on November 12^th and feature more suppliers that weren’t able to attend the New York event along with unique learning programs.

Continuing its mission to educate and involve the workforce of the future and students, Suppliers’ Day will also host the popular Future Chemists Workshop and Mentor/Mentee program, NYSCC is also collaborating with National SCC and sister chapters across the country on an enhanced Career Day program.

The winner of the CEW Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients & Formulation (announced on November 3^rd) will be recognized and celebrated at a special engagement during Suppliers’ Day along with the other finalists.

Suppliers’ Day is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents. To register to attend and for more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

Complete educational programming will be announced in September.

A Call for Presenters and Presentations for Suppliers’ Day is open until August 6, 2021. To submit click here. For exhibiting and sponsorship information contact: suppliersday@nyscc.org.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City, is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations. For more information visit: www.nyscc.org, Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

Editor’s Note: To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day contact Annie Scully at press@nyscc.org.

Impact of Environmental Stressors on Hair

July 12, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

Physiochemical properties of hair are impacted by many stressors ranging from physical, chemical, mechanical to environmental. A combination of several environmental factors such as sun exposure and air pollution can impact overall hair and scalp health. Damage induced by these aggressors impacts hair properties such as protein content, melanin oxidation, surface quality and structural components [1]. Hair and scalp care go hand in hand and prolonged exposure to pollution can cause scalp sensitivity. In this article, we will discuss the impact of environmental factors on hair and some of the treatment strategies that can help protect hair against these harmful effects.

Hair Structure

Hair is composed of heavily melanized keratin fibers. Hair keratins are classified as hard keratins, consisting of 65-96% proteins, 1-9% lipids, 3% melanin and other minor compounds. These proteins are the building blocks that contribute to the strength, flexibility, and overall health of hair. Hair is broadly structured in three layers: the cuticle, cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle forms the outermost coat of the hair shaft, acts as a protective wall shielding the inner layers and contributes to the feel and appearance of hair. The cuticle is subjected to many day-to-day insults such as washing, brushing, the use of thermal tools, UV radiation and pollution. Thus, the hair structure is gradually damaged. Next, we will review the impact of UV exposure and air pollution on hair properties.

Impact of UV radiation

Both UVA and UVB components of sunlight radiation are responsible for inducing damage to hair. It has been reported that morphological damage to the hair is caused by UVB and chemical changes in hair are caused by UVA [2].

UVB radiation (280-315 nm) affects hair approximately 5 µm beneath the surface [3] and localizes primarily in the cuticle area. It attacks the melanin pigment and protein fractions of hair [4]. UVB range is more harmful than UVA for hair damage: once the main chromophore of hair proteins absorbs UVB, UVA acts as a secondary cause of damage [1]. Effects of UVB radiation can be severe, resulting in the breakdown of di-sulfide bonds, which are fundamental to hair structural integrity. Such disruptions impact hair’s mechanical properties, resulting in the loss of tensile strength, increase in porosity and irregularities on the hair surface [5].

UVA radiation (315-400 nm) is less energetic but due to its longer wavelength, is capable of penetrating cuticle layers and cortex (causing partial loss of lipid, protein, and melanin) [6]. However, UVA is primarily responsible for color changes in hair. In pigmented hair, melanin granules provide photoprotection to hair proteins and lipid components from oxidation. Therefore, blonde, and grey hair, which are low in melanin, are susceptible to more damage [7]. Red and dark-brown hairs photo yellow when exposed to near ultraviolet plus visible radiation [4].

Overall, prolonged exposure to UV radiation can cause a decrease in 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA), a fatty acid found on the surface of hair cuticles and photochemical degradation of cystine, tryptophan and tyrosine. These changes contribute to signs of damage such as increased surface friction, poor manageability, brittle hair, and loss of shine, color, and tensile strength.

Impact of Pollution

Air pollutants consist of complex and varying mixtures of different size and composition particles suspended in the air. These can be polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), volatile organic compounds (VOCs), nitrogen oxides (NOx), particulate matter (PM), ozone or cigarette smoke [8].

Particulate matter (PM) is classified into PM_2.5and PM₁₀. Some PM_2.5particles form because of complex reactions between sulfur & nitrogen oxides and other compounds, which are pollutants emitted from power plants, industries, and automobiles [9]. PM₁₀ particulates like dust and pollen are much larger in size.

PM binds to the hair surface and infiltrates the hair follicle, something which could affect hair growth and texture. Severe air pollution can alter the hair surface making it rough and dull. The presence of sebum on the hair surface favors the deposit of larger PM. When it comes to your scalp, long term effects of pollution can contribute to scalp irritation, itching, excessive sebum secretion, dandruff, pain in the hair roots and hair loss. The combination of these symptoms is defined as sensitive scalp syndrome [10]. Excessive sebum production on scalp translates into oily / greasy roots, clogged pores, and blocked hair follicles. This can lead to an effective weakening of the hair at the root, making it to more prone to breakage [11].

PAHs are among the most widespread organic pollutants and in addition to being a human health risk factor they can also damage hair [12]. PAHs cling to the hair surface and the oxidizing pollutants penetrate inside the hair fiber, causing chemical damage to hair cuticle and protein. Furthermore, they can cause oxidative stress to hair when exposed to UV radiation; It is also shown that damage to cuticle and cortex is higher when PAH contamination increases and indeed fibers with increased PAH contamination show increased damaged after UV treatment [13].

Product Solutions to Combat Environmental Stressors

Consumers are always looking for products that help protect hair and scalp from these external aggressors. According to Mintel (GNPD, 2021) there has been a 61% increase in hair care product launches in North America with anti-pollution claims in the past three years. As consumers are shifting to healthier lifestyles and making cleaner choices, ingredients, their sources, and functionality are determining their purchase behaviors.

Film formers, UV filters and certain antioxidants have been used in hair care products to help protect hair from UV damage and prevent color fade. However, there is a growing need for multifunctional ingredients whose benefits go beyond sun protection alone, extending to helping protect hair and scalp against pollution as well.

The use of gentle cleansing ingredients to wash hair without disrupting scalp homeostasis has been a huge focus area for consumers. Botanical options such as Moringa and Chia seeds along with food-inspired ingredients like turmeric and bioinspired molecules (amino acids) have been spotlighted as ones that help purify, detox, and soothe the scalp. Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients like apple cider vinegar and exfoliators such as pink salt are in demand and help to stimulate good blood circulation. They can also help to remove build-up and excess sebum on the scalp.

As the photo-pollution category continues to evolve, researchers are now conducting exposome studies that can reveal new hypotheses on how hair could be affected by daily life environment and routine using wearable devices [1]. The use of new data collecting devices and beauty apps continue to rise, as they help engage consumers and guide the cosmetic industry in developing new products and concepts.

Conclusion

Pollution and sun exposure are a global concern and the emphasis is beyond just skin. These stressors can cause hair damage and induce scalp sensitivity. Novel ingredients and new products that focus on providing full protection continue to advance. Key for hair and scalp health are protective hair and scalp care solutions that can help create an eco-barrier on the hair surface to prevent the adhesion and penetration of pollutants and radiation, restore hair from the inside-out and provide scalp bio balance.

References

Rodrigo De Vecchi, Júlia da Silveira Carvalho Ripper, Daniel Roy, Lionel Breton, Alexandre Germano Marciano, Plínio Marcos Bernardo de Souza & Marcelo de Paula Corrêa, “ Using wearable devices for assessing the impacts of hair exposome in Brazil” , Scientific Reports ,volume 9, 13357 (2019)
Kazuhisa Maeda, Jun Yamazaki, Nana Okita, Masami Shimotori, Kyouhei Igarashi and Taiga Sano, “Mechanism of Cuticle Hole Development in Human Hair Due to UV-Radiation Exposure”, Cosmetics, 24, 5(2) (2018)
Lee, W. S.,” Hair photoaging “Aging hair, Springer, 123-133 (2010)
Estibalitz Fernández, Blanca Martínez-Teipel, Ricard Armengol, Clara Barba, Luisa Coderch, “Efficacy of antioxidants in human hair”, Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 117,146-156 (2012)
Timothy Gao, Jung-Mei Tien, Abhijit Bidaye, Scott Cardinali and Jena Kinney, “A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and Sun Damage”, Cosmetics & Toiletries (2013)
Ernesta Malinauskyte; Samuel Gourion-Arsiquaud, “Dirty Air, Hair and Skin: Pollution Studies”, TRI talks
Trefor A. Evans, “Combing Through Sun and Pollutant Effects on Hair”, Cosmetics & Toiletries (2016)
Eleni Drakaki, Clio Dessinioti and Christina V. Antoniou, “Air pollution and the skin”, Frontiers in Environmental Science (2014)
Seinfeld, J. H., & Pankow, J. F “Organic atmospheric particulate material”, Annual review of physical chemistry, 54(1), 121-140 (2003)
Rajput R, “Understanding Hair Loss due to Air Pollution and the Approach to Management”, Hair Therapy and Transplantation (2015)
Ashland: “How air pollution can turn into air pollution, and solutions to prevent it” Cosmetics design-europe.com (2019)
Sharleen St. Surin-Lord, “Sun, Metals & Pollution Are Damaging Your Hair”, Happi (2020)
Gregoire Naudin, Philippe Bastien, Sakina Mezzache, Erwann Trehu, Nasrine Bourokba, Brice Marc Rene Appenzeller, Jeremie Soeur and Thomas Bornschlogl, “Human Pollution exposure correlates with accelerated ultrastructural degradation of hair fibers”, PNAS, 116(37), 18410-18415(2019)

Mythili Nori has worked in the Personal Care industry for over a decade. Her expertise is in Product Claim Substantiation and Data Science. In her current role at BASF, she is responsible for Physical Claim Substantiation & Sensory testing for Hair & Skin Care. Prior to joining BASF, she spent 5 years at TRI/Princeton as a Senior Research Associate, supporting claim substantiation and fundamental research activities for textile and hair surfaces. She earned a Bachelor of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received Master of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture & Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water.

Deep Dive: The Ingredient + Trends Moving the Needle from NYSCC Chair Susanna Fernandes

June 30, 2021by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

CEW Beauty Creators Ambassador Susanna Fernandes, Chair, New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists [NYSCC], spoke to Beauty News about the ingredients and trends that brands are turning to in their efforts to meet consumer needs. Here’s what this ingredients expert is saying about naturals, essential oils, synthetics and innovations. To learn who the Supplier Finalists are for the 2021 CEW Beauty Creators Award, as well the Finalists for 28 Beauty categories, be sure to attend CEW’s Beauty Previews virtual event July 13.

Beauty News: What natural ingredients are you seeing in formulations over the past year versus previous years? What are the new benefits of these ingredients?
Susanna Fernandes: Lately, I am seeing that if there is an ingredient that can be derived naturally, it is being derived naturally – even if it costs a little bit more. Even though the focus on natural had been gaining momentum, it really has skyrocketed more recently. New ways of practicing sustainability are here to stay, especially upcycling. For example, in cosmetic ingredients a whole banana can be used, including the banana peel. Blue beauty is the new green beauty and entails protecting the oceans from marine-derived ingredients to banning the use of harmful chemicals in products, such as microbeads and coral-bleaching chemicals. And blue beauty heightens the movement to zero waste packaging or packaging that is virtually plastic-free.

BN: What synthetic ingredients are you seeing in formulations now versus in previous years? What are the new benefits of these ingredients?
SF: I’m starting to see synthetic essential oils in more and more applications. The synthetic versions tend to be less costly and the fragrance will be more consistent since it is not based on the year’s crop outcome. Another interesting point about synthetic ingredients is what we are not seeing. There have been several different lines of waterless products that have preservatives. The customer actually adds their own water in at home when they are ready to use the product. It’s a clever way to make a preservative-free product; and we all get to be formulators at home.

BN: What new formula technology/innovations have you seen over the past year?
SF: I have seen so many different products in the last year. Now, anyone can find a product that has been specifically formulated with them in mind; brands are making more products focused on different races, sexualities, and ages than ever before. Another innovation I’ve noticed is that the formula isn’t the whole package anymore. The amount of thought and planning that goes into a product’s backstory, design and delivery concept is truly astounding. For example, you can go online, take a detailed survey about your hair or skin type, and have a customized product delivered to your house by Uber on the same day.

BN: Did you see a slowdown in innovation due to logistics challenges cause by COVID?
SF: I do not feel that innovation has been impacted. So many new indie brands have popped up to address new and specific corners of the market from entire product lines dedicated to women going through menopause to brands designed for people identifying as non-binary. The market is expanding in a very interesting way that is addressing people on an individual basis that puts the Cosmetics and Personal Care industry at the forefront of acceptance and inclusivity.

BN: What are you seeing as ingredients trends for the next year or so?
SF: I think that color will be huge. Everyone has been stuck at home for a while now and as we begin to get back out there and socialize, I feel that people will want to express themselves more than ever. As we break out of our quarantine cocoons, we are all going to be beautiful butterflies. Another huge trend that came out of the pandemic that will stick around is Wellness + Beauty. I believe what makes us healthy inside makes us healthy on the outside too, from skin to hair.