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INDIE 360 Back at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with Larger Footprint and New Brand Innovations

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Media Contact:  Annie Scully, press@nyscc.org, 201-310-9252

INDIE 360° Back at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day with Larger Footprint and New Brand Innovations

Beauty & Personal Care Independents and Creators to Participate at Leading Ingredients Event

(New York, New York, April 2023)—The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, held May 2 & 3 at the Javits Convention Center in New York, is the most important ingredients and raw materials exhibition in North America and is increasing its focus on consumer facing brands and activities like the INDIE360 Pavilion and Conference and the Influencer Lounge. The INDIE 360° Pavilion is dedicated to highlighting new to market indie beauty brands that have novel ingredients, formulations, and unique concepts.

This year the pavilion features 14 beauty companies that showcase innovation across all categories including skin and body care, hair, intimate wellness, and oral care. Innovations span across use of bioengineered ingredients and waterless formulas with an environmentally conscious approach, intimate care innovation, sustainable oral care, Korean herbal medicinal inspired remedies and genderless beauty. INDIE 360° Pavilion is hosted and curated in partnership with ACCESS BEAUTY INSIDERS led by exhibition and marketing industry veteran Daniela Ciocan.

New to Suppliers’ Day will be the INFLUENCER LOUNGE featuring leading voices in the social media space who are recognized as experts on the science of beauty. Attendees can meet with influencers including Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu of @chemistconfessions, Lisa Guerrera  (@lisagrrera) and Ana Allen (@approvedbyana.ca) on both days of the show at designated hours.  In addition, an Influencer Chemist Panel: Truth in Beauty, hosted by IBA will take place in the Main Stage on May 2nd.  This panel will be moderated by Jen Novakovich, (@theecowell) and include Javon Ford (@javonford16) and the Influencers from the lounge.

The INDIE 360°  Pavilion participants include:

ALEXANDRA ORGANIC:  a company founded in Greece and inspired by Greek mythology with its heritage of healing plants and full range of hair care and makeup products. www.alexandraorganics.com

ANELEY Cosmetics: an all-natural and organic makeup brand, made in the USA. Contains natural, breathable ingredients that are anti-inflammatory.  www.aneleycosmetics.com

ELIMS: is building the future of sustainable oral care. Crafted by dentists and biomedical engineers, its mission is to advance human health while reducing waste for the planet.  www.elims.co

INA LABS: founders, Susan Goldsberry (world-renowned cosmetic chemist) and Dr. Beri Ridgeway (leading OB/GYN), make clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman’s most intimate skin. www.inalabs.com

MADAME LEMY: an all-natural, luxurious body care brand. Its unique powder formula can be used as deodorant, body powder, dry shampoo and more. https://madamelemy.com

MANIFEST BEAUTY: is a clean, vegan, and cruelty-free beauty brand that empowers women to unleash their best selves through lip plumpers that amplify self-love and high vibrations. www.manifest-beauty.com

NICOLE RAVACHI: offers genderless beauty for all skin types in LATAM. Its mission is to simplify skincare and make beauty more accessible.  www.nicoleravachibrand.com

NULASTIN: female founded, is redefining what it means to be a beauty brand by focusing on performance-driven, scientifically backed, ethically derived elastin replenishment for lashes, brows, hair & skin. www.nulastin.com

PALMLESS: its nourishing oil is powered by Palmless™ Torula oil, a luxe new bio-designed oil made from yeast, not from trees and it contains unique carotenoids and sterols found only in the fungal kingdom. www.gopalmless.com

RAAKA’S WORLD: is an innovative beauty brand founded by Dr. Shobana Vankipuram, a first-generation woman physician whose mission is to empower women through easy, authentic, transformative self-care experiences. www.raakasworld.com

REPÚBLICA SKIN: Sugar Body Polish waterless formula is the ultimate skin indulgence with a rich blend of naturally derived oils and butters paired with finely milled, organic sugar creating a sensorial gentle exfoliation. www.republicaskin.com

ROOTS PROFESSIONAL/CLUB ROOTS: Roots Professional brings the most complete cosmeceutical science for superior hair growth to the salon market and Club Roots carries this tradition for both men and women into mass retail and more. www.clubroots.com

SIX GLDN: is transformative skincare for every skin type. Crafted with powerful botanicals and Korean herbal medicine it’s formulated for maximum results in five steps. www.sixgldn.com

TRUTH TREATMENTS: are topical nutritional formulas designed to heal skin and formulated by Benjamin Knight Fuchs, R.Ph., a dermatology pharmacist. www.truthtreatments.com

            The comprehensive INDIE 360° experience at Suppliers’ Day also includes a dedicated conference track, moderated and chaired by Luciana Coutinho, luluble, that explores every angle of bringing an independent brand to market.  Sessions will cover trends, financing, starting a beauty brand, preparing for MoCRA, and “Building the Future of Beauty,” with the female founders of C16 Biosciences, Ina Labs, Madame Lemy, and Nicole Ravachi Cosmetics.         A highlight of INDIE 360° will be the “People’s Choice Award,” where Suppliers’ Day attendees can vote for their favorite INDIE pavilion brand participant. This winner will be announced at a champagne toast at 3:00 p.m. on Wednesday, May 3rd.

Members of the press can join this year’s INDIE 360°  VIP Media Tour to meet founders from all participating companies on Wednesday May 2nd from 10:30am; RSVP required as only a limited number of spots are available.

Suppliers’ Day, May 2-3, is the NYSCC flagship event and attracts participants working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents.  Additional educational programs offered this year will cover microbiome, hair care and wellness, biotechnology, fragrance, modernizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors and hot topics.  “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,” “World of Chemistry,” and a L’Oreal Fireside Chat are also offered. The Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship Mixer and a Career Development Day will be held in support of young professionals in the industry. The NYSCC Industry Awards Night will take place on May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and feature the announcement of the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award.

For more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and to register to attend, visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/.

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations.  For more information visit: www.nyscc.org. Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

 

Editor’s Note:  To request a press badge for Suppliers’ Day and RSVP for the I INDIE 360°  Media Tour contact Annie Scully: press@nyscc.org

 

 

Sunscreen formulations – emphasis on inorganic sunscreens

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Ever since the FDA published their proposed monograph ruling in February 2019 recognizing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as the only Category I (Safe and Effective) sunscreens, a cascade of reformulations of most sunscreens products on the US market took place.  Inorganic sunscreen formulations are now center-stage and are slowly replacing organic sunscreen formulations.  In fact, the trend started in 2018 when the state of Hawaii proposed a ban on Octinoxate and Oxybenzone stating that these two sunscreens have a negative effect on coral reefs.  Now that the ban is in effect, another bill is proposing to ban sunscreens containing Octocrylene and Avobenzone for the same reasons.  It is true that many regulatory bodies including the FDA did not support the Hawaiian ban, and the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) is addressing the proposed monograph rulings. All these actions might lead to uncertain outcomes.  In fact, in a few years the US consumers might be limited to the use of products containing inorganic sunscreens only (with the exception of Ensulizole and Ecamsule).  There is some hope that certain Time and Extent (T&E) molecules are being reviewed by the FDA and may be approved for launch.  Bemotrizinol is a front-runner and its use in formulation is quite good as it protects both in the UVB and UVA areas.

Selecting the right inorganic sunscreen

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide not only refract light but also absorb it.  The refractive index of titanium dioxide is 2.8 whereas that of zinc oxide is only 2.0.  This makes titanium dioxide much more effective at scattering light in a formulation.  From and absorption point of view, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have conductance bands around 3.4 and 3.1 eV, respectively.  This makes zinc oxide a bit more efficient in protecting against UVA rays and titanium dioxide more efficient at shielding UVB rays.  As particle size decreases you get much more pronounced blue shift due to a change in the band-gap width.  For example, a 0.15 eV blue shift has been reported for 4.7 nm titanium dioxide compared to bulk.

Keep in mind, when particles become smaller than their optimal light scattering size (typically half their wavelength) they become much more transparent.  For example, zinc oxide becomes transparent at below 200 nm whereas titanium dioxide becomes transparent at sizes around 10-20 nm.  This makes formulating with zinc oxide much easier to achieve transparent formulations but harder to reach high SPF due to its performance in the UVB region.

Sometimes the so-called “boosters” can help many formulators resort to using salicylates as UVB boosters in their formulations.  Butyl octyl salicylate is not an approved sunscreen in the US but many formulators use it to boost their inorganic sunscreen SPF while claiming no organic sunscreens added.

Dispersion versus powder

The choice to use inorganic sunscreens as powder or dispersions in formulations is a very polarizing decision and many formulators prefer to use one type over the other.  In general, dispersions claim to have a smaller primary particle size which results in better dispersion of the pigment into the emulsion and leads to higher SPF and less whitening on the skin.  However, dispersions come at about 50% w/w solvent/pigment which limits the flexibility the formulator to tweak the formulation.  In addition, when working with w/o or w/Si formulations, it is harder to control the viscosity of such emulsions when using dispersions.  In these types of emulsions, the viscosity is built by the internal phase (water).  Using dispersions  ultimately increases the amount of external phase and reduces the amount of water used which will make such emulsions less viscous and less stable.

The use of powders, on the on the other hand, gives the formulator a lot of flexibility and reduces the cost of the formulation.  Although, when using powders, it is important to have manufacturing capability to grind the pigments at the factory scale to reduce agglomeration and produce formulations with good aesthetics.

Selecting emulsion type

Most inorganic sunscreen formulations on the market are w/o or w/Si emulsions.  These types of emulsions are much easier to preserve, as you only preserve the internal phase, and their pH does not fluctuate since they are anhydrous.  These types of emulsions inherently have very good water resistance as well.  Some of the drawbacks of w/o emulsions are their greasy feel mainly imparted by the surfactants and co-surfactants used. They tend to be more whitening on the skin and harder to spread.  W/Si emulsion have a superior end-feel, but they are not particularly biodegradable or earth-friendly by today’s standards.  They share the same characteristics as w/o emulsions when it comes to preservation, pH and water resistance.  In general w/Si emulsions are harder to stabilize and require the use of more than one surfactant to obtain stable emulsions.

It is very rare to see o/w emulsion formulations on the market, since they are harder to preserve and stabilize.  The presence of zinc oxide ultimately shifts pH towards 7.5 which renders most preservatives less effective.  In addition, at that pH very few polymers work well at stabilizing such emulsions especially naturally derived polymers.  On the other hand, these emulsions typically have a nicer feel on the skin and could be cost effective.

Adding a film former or SPF booster

Selecting a film-former or SPF booster for the emulsion is a critical step and one that should not be avoided.  The selection of the appropriate polymer depends mostly on the experience of the formulator and the in vivo results previously obtained with such polymer.  Many polymers are marketed to the formulators and some of them could work in one formulation or another.  However, it is crucial that the film former works across many formulations and especially in vivo since such tests are quite costly and hard to schedule.  As scientists, we should always test the formulations in vitro for water resistance and SPF to ensure that the addition of the polymer will give the desired results.  This will enable the formulator to refine the level of polymer in the emulsion as well.

In conclusion, I hope I shed some light on formulating inorganic sunscreen emulsions and I leave it up to the creativity of formulators to create excellent formulations with great aesthetics and high SPF.

Biography

Dr. Fares started his career in personal care studying the effect of solvents on sunscreen chemicals.  His interest in skin drug delivery especially from polymeric matrices grew during his graduate work at Rutgers, where he received his Ph. D.

Dr. Fares worked at Block Drug and GlaxoSmithKline where he held positions in research and development in the areas of skincare and oral care.  After that, he joined L’Oréal where he held several positions of increasing responsibility leading to AVP of skincare.  He is currently the Senior Director of skincare and oral care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients.  Dr. Fares is the author of many publications, and patents and made many presentations in national and international meetings in the areas of suncare, skincare, and oral care.  Dr Fares chairs the NYSCC scientific committee and has won multiple awards in the areas of sun care and polymer chemistry.

Supplements in the beauty industry – not just vitamins and minerals

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The recent introduction of holistic wellness as a major component of “I feel better and I look better” is not new to the beauty and cosmetic market. However, the explosion of nutritional formulations in the space of beauty from within is today associated with more robust and convincing scientific evidence than in the past. Supplement formulations appear more complex and not limited to collagen, vitamins and minerals to cite some of the most popular ingredients. The introduction of phytochemicals, sometime in the form of standardized plant extracts, along with vitamin and minerals, is providing an increased targeting and holistic approach to inner mechanisms associated with stress, diet, metabolism, aging, etc. that eventually influence our external look. This is not surprising as our cosmetic targets such as skin, hair, nail are part of our body and therefore react to our body unbalance. The connection between our gut and our skin, when a diverse gut environment is associated with skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, etc.1 and the influence of hormonal and stress-induced changes that can trigger hair conditions such as androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium.2 are some examples.

Modern formulations would use a wide range of ingredients that, when ingested, specifically target biological mechanisms associated with our health and wellness as well as our look (and I underline the specificity). It is possible then to create formulation that when tested deliver real efficacy and stand up to the claims.

Natural ingredients are taking center stage in these formulations, also inspired by the use of naturals in traditional medicine, with the possibility to merge knowledge from the western and eastern world.

When having a closer look at the applications and studies of supplements targeting wellness and beauty, recent reviews have highlighted their use as adjuvants and/or treatment for different dermatology or cosmetic conditions such as hair loss, acne, skin aging3-5. Since supplements are not FDA regulated, large, peer-reviewed clinical studies are necessary to determine the efficacy and safety of these supplements, especially since most of them haven’t been clinically tested. To avoid running lengthy and sometime expensive clinical trial, product manufacturers often rely on supplier’s data and/or academic literature about the ingredients in the final supplement composition. However, it is necessary to test the finish product since ingredient’s dosage and ingredients interaction and/or synergy can determine the outcome both from a safety and efficacy point of view. The quality of the clinical study is also important (number of subjects, inclusion/exclusion criteria, end points measures, data significance). Finally, Institutional Review Boards (IRB) approval is becoming increasingly in demand prior to the clinical study especially if dealing with compositions that are new to the market and carry some safety risk, and is often requested by scientific journals when trying to publish the data.

In conclusion, the cosmetic and the nutrition (supplements) industry are getting closer, with beauty as a shared target. Innovative supplement formulations carrying high end natural ingredients are becoming popular and demanded by the market. Rigorous science and testing is mandatory to make sure the formulation can survive scrutiny by the consumers and the FDA. Combination of topical and ingestible treatments in the beauty market will continue to grow in the following years.

 

  1. Ellis SR, Nguyen M, Vaughn AR, Notay M, Burney WA, Sandhu S, Sivamani RK. The Skin and Gut Microbiome and Its Role in Common Dermatologic Conditions. Microorganisms 7(11):550, 2019
  2. Hadshiew IM, Foitzik K, Arck PC, Paus R. Burden of hair loss: stress and the underestimated psychosocial impact of telogen effluvium and androgenetic alopecia. J Invest Dermatol. 123(3):455-7, 2004
  3. Adelman MJ, Bedford LM, Potts GA. Clinical efficacy of popular oral hair growth supplement ingredients. Int J Dermatol 60(10):1199-1210, 2021
  4. Clark AK, Haas KN, Sivamani RK. Edible Plants and Their Influence on the Gut Microbiome and Acne. Int J Mol Sci 17;18(5):1070, 2017
  5. Sardana K, Sachdeva S. Role of nutritional supplements in selected dermatological disorders: A review. J Cosmet Dermatol 21(1):85-98, 2022

Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is Nutrafol’s Chief Scientific Officer. Part of the Leadership team, Giorgio spearheads the brand innovation, product formulation and scientific communication. After obtaining his PhD in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in Academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 22 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, Innovation, Science, and Product Development at multiple companies, including La Prairie and Kiehl’s. He has helped bringing more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, he holds 2 patents and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty and natural ingredients. Giorgio serves on the NYSCC board as advisor.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Announces Call For Presentations

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Leading North American Event for Ingredient Innovations Seeks Thought Leaders In Beauty & Personal Care

(New York, NY, January 2023)—The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) announces a Call for Presentations for its 2023 Suppliers’ Day trade show and conferences. Renowned for its comprehensive educational program, NYSCC and its scientific advisory committee are seeking subject matter experts, industry leaders, and influencers, who can share their unique insight on cosmetic chemistry, scientific research, product development trends, and technologies that are driving the beauty and personal care industry.

Suppliers’ Day will take place May 2-3, 2023 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York.  This top event in North America will bring the entire industry together for a “Week of Beauty,” and discovering the latest products and services including high performance ingredients, formulations, fragrances, testing, lab equipment, and regulatory solutions.

The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Call for Presentations deadline is Tuesday, January 31, 2003. Content that closely examine trends and technologies that are driving formulations with special emphasis this year on “Reimagining Renewal & Wellness,” are encouraged.  Topics of interest also include:
• Biotechnology in Beauty & Personal Care
• Color Cosmetics
• Digitizing Formulation
• Diversity/Inclusion in Beauty/Personal Care
• Fragrance
• Global Cosmetics Marketplace
• Hair Care – Trends, Color +
• Independent Brands – Trends, Needs +
• Microbiome
• Oral Care
• Pet Care
• Regulatory/Compliance
• Sustainability/Green/Clean

More information about NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and its Call for Presentations can be found at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day or click here to submit.

Any questions, contact: suppliersday@nyscc.org.

 

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About New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City is the leading North American event for beauty ingredients, formulations, and delivery innovations.  For more information visit: www.nyscc.org,  Connect with NYSCC on Twitter and Facebook at @NYSCC and Instagram: @NYSCCMAIN

The Dermal-Epidermal Junction

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The skin barrier function has recently dominated the cosmetic media and consumer market segment. The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is a region within the skin which does not get a lot of face time relative to its high-profile neighbor (epidermis / stratum corneum). The DEJ is the birthplace of the epidermis so it seems reasonable to shed some light on light on this structure, and to ask some questions on why this skincare target may be under promoted for anti-age benefits. For this blog post we will use a marketing style “fact sheet” format to guide us through our chat on “The Dermal-Epidermal Junction”

What it is:

Many are aware of the well-known “brick and mortar” model of the epidermis. That structure (house) needs a foundation for stability and functionality. The DEJ is the foundation of the brick and mortar “house”. The DEJ is composed of four component areas:  the basal cell plasma membrane with its specialized attachment devices or hemidesmosomes,  an electron-lucent area, the lamina lucida,  the basal lamina, and the sub-basal lamina fibrous components, including anchoring fibrils, dermal microfibril bundles, and collagen fibers (1).  Hemidesmosomes (HDs) are highly specialized integrin-mediated epithelial attachment structures that make cells firmly adhere to the extracellular matrix by establishing a link between the underlying basement membrane (BM) and the internal mechanical stress-resilient keratin intermediate filament (IF) network (2). The next region progressing downward in the skin is the lamina lucida (LL), it is approximately 30–40 nm in width. This region is directly subjacent to the plasma membranes of basal keratinocytes. The layer underneath the LL is called the lamina densa (LD). This layer of the DEJ is 30-50 nm wide and has biochemical/physical interactions with the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the upper dermis (3).

Image Source Here

 

What It does:

The dermal-epidermal junction has several functions This area anchors the epidermis to the dermis and is responsible for the exchange of oxygen, nutrients and waste products between the vascularized dermis and the avascular epidermis. This connectivity between the epidermis and the dermis allows for a strong resistance against a possible physical stress (4). The DEJ provides both a structural support to keratinocytes and a specific niche that mediates signals influencing their behavior. The DEJ is also a highly interactive zone acting as a substrate for melanocyte/keratinocyte interactions for melanin distribution as well as a selective permeable barrier for epidermal and dermal cross talk in both directions.

Why isn’t the DEJ a more consistent focus of cosmeceutical product development:

The DEJ forms a fine line between the epidermis and dermis. It is known that the undulating rete ridge area becomes flatter with aging skin. This event lowers the surface area thereby decreasing cellular cross talk and nutrition movement in this region. The dermal capillary structures near the DEJ are a link to the human body and its systemic circulatory network. Could this be a cause of concern for cosmetic products? What if systemic absorption reduces a portion of the active from its sight of action? Another concern may be the potential for a portion of the cosmetic ingredients being moved in the body’s circulatory system. That is a “line in the sand” many companies may not want to cross. The DEJ is complicated, maybe the ability to produce some anti-age benefits in this region is outweighed by the complexity of the task.

Image Source: Kynan T. Lawlor, Pritinder Kaur: International Journal of Molecular Sciences 16 (12):28098-28107

 

How can the DEJ be evaluated or monitored?

If the DEJ is so important, how can we evaluate this area in a noninvasive fashion. One way is to look for a particular protein (Laminin 322) using immunofluorescence (5). Another option to evaluate the DEJ is to use Raman spectroscopy. This technique has been used to evaluate melanin distribution in vivo (6).

What are some DEJ biomarkers of interest for cosmetics?

The dermal-epidermal junction consists of a network of several interacting structural proteins that strengthen adhesion and mediate signaling events (7). Collagen VII stimulates renewal and improves cohesion of the DEJ. Collagen IV is a major constituent in basement membranes. It is involved in maintaining a functional interface between the epidermis and the dermis. Laminin 322 is a key target for DEJ anchoring and cohesion. Peptides have also been identified as opportunities to target to DEJ (8). With this said, there aren’t a lot of cosmetic brands positioning towards the DEJ.  The same can be said for raw materials suppliers, I didn’t find a lot of cosmetic materials targeting the DEJ.

In summary, targeting the DEJ can be challenging due to its location in the skin.  Caution should be taken as any intended influence of the DEJ from a topical strategy may become systemic due to the proximity of the circulatory/lymphatic vessels.  However, that disadvantage may be an opportunity to “feed” the DEJ from a targeted nutritional point of view from within.

 

 

References

R A Briggaman, C E Wheeler Jr : The Epidermal-Dermal Junction, J Invest Dermatol, 1975 Jul;65 (1):71-84

Gernot Walko et al. Molecular architecture and function of the hemidesmosome, Cell and Tissue Research 2015; 360(3): 529–544.

Eduardo Calonje , The structure and function of skin : McKee’s Pathology of the Skin, Chapter 1, 1-34.e3

Zhizhong Shen, Rete ridges: Morphogenesis, function, regulation, and reconstruction, Acta Biomaterialia Volume 155, 1 January 2023, Pages 19-34

Lincoln et al. : Gentamicin induces LAMB3 nonsense mutation readthrough and restores functional laminin 332 in junctional epidermolysis bullosa, National Academy of Sciences, PNAS | vol. 115 | no. 28 |

P . Yakimov et al. Melanin distribution from the dermal–epidermal junction to the stratum corneum: non‑invasive in vivo assessment by fluorescence and Raman microspectroscopy, Scientific Reports | (2020) 10:14374

Stephanie Goletz et al. Structural proteins of the dermal-epidermal junction targeted by autoantibodies in pemphigoid diseases, Exp Dermatolactions Dec;26(12):1154-1162. doi: 10.1111/exd.13446.

Sekyoo Jeong et al. Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression, Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2020, 21, 73;

About the Author

Marc Cornell, BS. is a consultant at Mar-key Consulting LLC where he services the consumer product industry with innovative product development concepts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Announces 2023 Executive Board

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Dr. Amber Evans of Moroccanoil named Chair-Elect along with other Leaders Representing Prominent Ingredient and Formulation Suppliers and Manufacturers

(New York, NY, November 2022)—The New York Society of Cosmetics Chemists (NYSCC), the largest chapter of the SCC, has announced its 2023 Executive Board.  The new board will be officially inducted during the NYSCC Education Awards Night Ceremony on Wednesday, December 7th at the Edison Ballroom in New York City.

The 2023 NYSCC Executive Board will include:

•Stacey House, Chair
Senior Vice President, R&D Consumer Beauty Color and Skin, Coty LATAM

•Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Advisor
Chief Science Officer, Nutrafol

•Alex Blakeman, Treasurer
Director of Technologies, Superior Materials Inc.

•Luciana Coutinho, Secretary
Founder and Chief Product Officer, LULUBLE, INC.

•Amber O. Evans, Chair-Elect
Senior Manager of Product Development, Moroccanoil

“I’m excited to guide the future direction of the Chapter and am grateful for the strong foundation that my predecessor, Giorgio, built this past year,” said Stacey House, incoming Chair, NYSCC.  “Together with this esteemed board, dedicated committee members, and countless volunteers, we will continue our legacy of focusing on top education in cosmetic science as well as expand into new areas of opportunity and growth including reimagining renewal and wellness.”

House and the 2023 NYSCC Executive Board also plan to expand and grow the programs that will help the chapter’s youngest members succeed in the industry including expanding the Future Chemists Workshop at Suppliers’ Day, a robust Mentorship/Mentee database, as well as career and professional development programs held at universities and colleges throughout the area.

Nanomaterial safety and regulations in personal care product development

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  1. Brief history of nanomaterial regulations

 According to Wikipedia, the word “nanotechnology” was first coined by Professor Norio Taniguchi of Tokyo University in 1974. He used it to describe semiconductor processes such as thin film deposition and ion beam milling, which exhibit characteristic control on the order of a nanometer.  Since the 1980s, the term nanotechnology has been referring to the fabrication, use/manipulation, control and characterization of structures devices or materials with a least one dimension in the size range of 1–100 nm. 1,2

Nanotechnologies represent a fast-growing market, bringing with them a combination of benefits, promises, risks, and uncertainties.  It is synonymous with high technology and high efficacy. It has often been used as a buzzword in advertisements and label claims of many consumer products, including personal care products, to gain attention.  Various physical and chemical properties of a material can be affected by its particle size. Nanomaterials have been engineered to have enhanced properties and performance that are beyond their non-nano counterparts. However, these much enhanced properties also raises questions about their safety.

In June 2007, the safety of nanomaterials such as nano TiO2 in sunscreen and fulluerene was raised in the article, Nanotechnology, the untold promise, and unknown risk, in Consumer Reports.  In August 2007, Friend of Earth (FOE) published Technology and Sunscreens, raising the particular concern over nano TiO2 and ZnO in sunscreens and calling for labeling and regulation of nanomaterials in consumer products. Earlier in 2006, a coalition of environmental and consumer groups, including the International Center for Technology Assessment, Friends of the Earth, and Our Bodies, Ourselves, filed a legal petition with the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) asking FDA to regulate nanotechnology.

The first regulatory move was made by European Commission (EC).   EC acknowledged the safety concerns considering that nanomaterials could have very different physical and chemical properties over their non-nano counterparts, potentially resulting in different toxicological profiles. In 2005, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Products was requested by EC to provide a scientific opinion on the safety of nanomaterials in cosmetic products, in particular, the appropriateness of existing methodologies to assess the potential risk associated. This created public fear regarding nanomaterials in consumer products, especially in personal care products. In the meantime, the uncertainty of the future regulatory landscape made it extremely difficult for cosmetic formulators to incorporate nanomaterials in any formulation.

In 2009, REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products stated the purpose and need of a definition of nanomaterial, which has been evolving since. Most recently, COMMISSION RECOMMENDATION of 10 June 2022 on the definition of nanomaterial, C 229/1, defines nanomaterial as follows:

Nanomaterial means a natural, incidental, or manufactured material consisting of solid particles that are present, either on their own or as identifiable constituent particles in aggregates or agglomerates, and where 50 % or more of these particles in the number-based size distribution fulfill at least one of the following conditions:

– one or more external dimensions of the particle are in the size range 1 nm to 100 nm;
– the particle has an elongated shape, such as a rod, fibre or tube, where two external dimensions are smaller than 1 nm and the other dimension is larger than 100 nm.
– the particle has a plate-like shape, where one external dimension is smaller than 1 nm and the other dimensions are larger than 100 nm

Moreover, Article 16 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products requires that, in addition to the notification under Article 13, cosmetic products containing nanomaterials shall be notified to the Commission by the Responsible Person using electronic means six months prior to being placed on the market. Notification should be done on Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP).

 

  1. Interpretation of nanomaterial definition:

The interpretation of the nanomaterial definition depends to a large extent on the size measurement method. Because of the structural complexity of nanomaterials, no single test method is capable of measuring all nanomaterials precisely and properly. EC recommends determining nanomaterial by its primary particle size or internal structure while allowing sectoral interpretation according to the actual use conditions, which may vary drastically from industry to industry.

In 2011, Cosmetic Europe issued their own interpretation of EC definition of nanomaterial, and then an update in 2019, stating that “materials with constitutive elements having a dimension in the nano-range (e.g. aggregates, agglomerates, composites) but that are themselves greater than 100 nm in size should not be considered as nanomaterials unless they release nano-objects or aggregates of less than 100 nm in size in cosmetic products under normal use conditions”.  Accordingly, the size of aggregates or agglomerates is used to determine the nanomaterial for labeling cosmetic products. This interpretation has been followed by many cosmetic companies.

 

  1. Commercial use of nanomaterials

According to a EC’s report, Sub-working group of on nanomaterial definition, published on January 28, 2021, 37,647 cosmetic products were notified with nanomaterials in EU market, (via Art.13 procedure), which corresponds to about 1.5% of all notifications. According to 2015 – 2020 data, on average, about 10 new cosmetic products containing nanomaterials are placed on the EU market every day.

Most common product categories with nanomaterials: (64% of all nanomaterials notifications):

  1. Sun protection
  2. Nail varnish/nail make up
  3. Oxidative hair care
  4. Foundation
  5. Lip care products and lipsticks

The most used cosmetic ingredients are reported below (4 ingredients accounts for over 70% of all CPNP notifications):

  1. Titanium Dioxide
  2. Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Silane, dichlorodimethyl-, reaction products with silica
  3. Carbon Black nano (CI77266)
  4. Silica

Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) under European Commission is requested by EC to evaluate the safety of the listed nanomaterials via a process that was based on the scientific literature available at the time and SCCS’ expert judgment. In early 2021, SCCS published an advice on the safety of nanomaterials in cosmetics, in which nanomaterials of concern were separated into two groups. 3

     — 16(4) of the Cosmetics Regulation

28 substances including silica, Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, Methylene Bis Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol were listed in the appendix 1 in an order of priority according to risk potential (based on a number of criteria).

     — 16(6) of the Cosmetics Regulation

SCCS reviewed three previous inclusive opinions on colloid silver, nano styrene/acrylate polymer and nano silica, and identified certain aspects relating to each of these nanomateirals that raised safety concern.

 

  1. Nano TiO2 /ZnO in sunscreens

For personal care products, nano TiO2 and ZnO are perhaps the two most concerning ingredients due to their wide use as sunscreen actives. Because of their very small primary particle size, nano TiO2 and ZnO are much more transparent on the skin and much more potent in UV protection than their non-nano or pigmentary counterparts. For instance, pigmentary TiO2 is known to be completely opaque and cannot be used in any skin care product for effective UV protection.  Nano TiO2, with a primary size of 10 – 20 nm, is not only highly transparent but also provides 5 – 6 times higher SPF.   For this reason, nano TiO2 and ZnO have been used widely in sunscreen products in Japan and Australia since 1980s.  They have been popular among those having sensitive skin and allergic to organic sunscreens.

Up to now, and after the use by hundreds of millions of consumers, there have been no reports of any adverse health effects for nano TiO2 and ZnO. However, they were still put under great scrutiny due to the general concerns and fear that were raised for nanomaterials in early 2000s.  Many customers, especially in EU, became somewhat nanophobic at the time as the future of regulatory landscape remained uncertain.

For topical application, the major concern is transdermal adsorption or penetration.  After years of study, SCCS issued in 2012 OPINION ON Zinc oxide (nano form) COLIPA S76 stating thatThere is no evidence for the absorption of ZnO nanoparticles through skin and via the oral route. Even if there was any dermal and/or oral absorption of ZnO nanoparticles, continuous dissolution of zinc ions would lead to complete solubilization of the particles in the biological environment.” 4 Two years later, the SCCS issued the OPINION ON 22 on Titanium Dioxide (nano form), stating “the main consideration in the current assessment is the apparent lack of penetration of TiO2 nanoparticles through skin.” 5

Another concern is photo-catalytic activity of nano TiO2 that lead to generation of free radicals and ensuing oxidation.  Surface treatment of nano TiO2 had been quite common, and the data collected by SCCSs on commercial grades confirmed that the photo-catalytic activity could be much suppressed by surface treatment.

Finally, EU revised the nano TiO2 monograph for use as UV filters in 2016. The key updates included a list of allowed surface treatments and a limit on the photocatalytic activity. In the same year, ZnO was officially approved as an UV filter, and a list of surface treatments and solubility specification were included in the monograph. 6

After years of investigation, EC finally concluded that nano TiO2 and ZnO were safe for personal care use as long as:

  1. They comply with the specifications in the EU monographs.
  2. The final product will not lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation.

For other nanomaterials under review, the SCCS has yet to establish final opinions. The future regulatory status remains uncertain.

 

  1. Regulations in other regions

Nanomaterial is generally defined as a material with internal or external dimensions in the range of 1 – 100 nm in other regions.   Many regulatory agencies share similar concerns to EC’s, but they have not acted as swiftly as EC.  Although there are guidelines for considering the safety of nanomaterials, there are few laws enacted to regulate them.  To the author’s knowledge, there are two regulations outside EU:

A) Canada – If a sunscreen product contains only inorganic UV filters, nano TiO2 and/or ZnO, it is considered a Natural Health Product, for which the premarket approval is not needed. However, if any of the two is used with organic UV filters, the sunscreen is a drug product. Safety of nano TiO2/ZnO needs to be addressed and approved, which can be painstaking. Further, there is no official test method and threshold for classifying nanomaterials.

B) China – “Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Children’s Cosmetics” issued by the State Food and Drug Administration (2021 No. 123), was issued in 2021. Section 7.1 states that:

“….. New raw materials that are still in the monitoring period should not be used, and raw materials prepared by new technologies such as genetic technology and nanotechnology should not be used. If there is no alternative raw material that must be used, the reason should be explained, and evaluate the safety of children’s cosmetics”.

Since nano TiO2 and ZnO are not new technologies, they could be exempted from this regulation. However, the ambiguity in interpreting the regulatory language and difficulty in effective communication with Chinese officials have made many company shy away from nano TiO2 or ZnO, and instead turning to the non-nano grades.

 

  1. Summary

Nanomaterial safety and regulations are important to personal care product development. Many nanomateterials used in our industry are under safety review and their future is uncertain. As far as nano TiO2 and ZnO are concerned, it is official that they are safe as long as they are not exposed to end-users’ lung in application. Due to the complex structures of nanomaterials, their size analysis method, data interpretation and regulatory classification have been constantly investigated and are still evolving. Formulators are highly advised to consult with their regulatory experts as well as the suppliers when choosing nano or non-nanomaterials.

 

References:

  1. (2007a) Opinion on: the Scientific Aspects of the Existing Proposed Definition Relating to Products of Nanoscience Nanotechnologies. Brussels: European Commission Health Consumer Protection Directorate General.
    SCENHIR. (2007b) Opinion on: the Appropriateness of the Risk Assessment Methodology in Accordance with the Technical Guidance Documents for the New and Existing Substances for Assessing the Risk of Nanomaterials. Brussels.
  1. ISO/TS 27687. (2008). Nanotechnologies – Terminology and Definitions for Nano-objects – Nanoparticle, Nanofibre and Nanoplate.
  2. SCCS/1618/2020 Scientific Advice; https://health.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2022-08/sccs_o_239.pdf
  3. SCCS/1489/12; https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_103.pdf
  4. SCCS/1516/13 Revision of 22 April 2014; https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_136.pdf
  5. COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 2016/1143 of 13 July 2016, amending Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products

A stem-cell based approach against photoaging

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

We have all heard the term “photoaging” and can agree on its definition, succinctly described by the Canadian Dermatology Association: “Photoaging is premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV), primarily from the sun but also from artificial UV sources. Photoaging differs from chronologic aging: the damaging effects of UV rays – from the sun or artificial tanning sources – alter normal skin structures.”(1) As a result, this UV light causes DNA changes at a cellular level, and because photodamage happens in the deepest layers of the skin – the dermis – it can take years before the damage surfaces and becomes visible(2). (As we all know, UVA radiation is highly damaging, penetrating much deeper than UVB radiation; while UVB causes sunburn, UVA results in premature skin aging and wrinkle formation – and both, of course, can cause skin cancers(3).) Historically speaking, our industry has long focused on protection against UV radiation via the use of sunscreens (which remain on the surface of the skin), but later scientific advances have produced ingredients and formulations intended to penetrate the skin and act to protect cells in the dermal and epidermal layers. And the most recent efforts have been concentrated on the protection of keratinocyte stem cells in the epidermis against UVA-induced DNA lesions, along with boosting the cells’ endogenous DNA-repair system.

It must be mentioned that the concept of “stem cells” commonly brings to mind embryonic stem cells, which can form new cells of any kind, but here we are referring to epidermal stem cells, which can only differentiate into keratinocytes. And as we know from basic skin biology, keratinocytes – if healthy – can potentially renew indefinitely, providing a continuous supply of new cells to the epidermis as part of the essential renewal process of the skin.

But back to the topic of UVA protection: It has been shown that epidermal stem cells have a greater capacity to fight against UVA aggression than their “daughter”, or differentiated, cells, due to more efficient repair mechanisms(4). By the same token, epidermal stem cells are highly sensitive to UVA-induced damage and lose their “stemness” potential when exposed to excessive UVA radiation, which is why it is of utmost importance to protect these stem cells so that they remain robust and productive. It has recently been discovered that an extract from the fruit sechium edule can provide significant biological protection to these stem cells against UVA-induced epidermal damage(5).

The protective effect of sechium edule fruit extract on the epidermis can be observed through its protection against UVA-induced DNA damage, boosting of DNA repair capacities, and maintenance of the stemness potential of keratinocytes.

It was found that exposure to UVA induces the formation of oxidative DNA lesions, specifically 8-oxoG lesions, in keratinocyte cells and causes extensive damage to DNA in the form of fragmentation. A study conducted with the comet assay showcases the severity of UVA-induced damage on DNA as visualized in the samples exposed to UVA with the fragmented DNA forming a tail behind intact DNA. Treatment with sechium edule fruit extract helps to protect keratinocytes by significantly reducing the number of oxidative lesions thereby helping to keep the DNA intact (see Figure 1).

Figure 1. Protection against UVA-induced DNA damage (***p<0.001) (6)

As mentioned earlier, the human body is equipped with its own endogenous repair mechanisms that can repair DNA, but these mechanisms can often be affected by UV and become less effective. The next study looked at the enzymes involved in the repair of 8-oxoG lesions, OGG1 & MYH. The treatment of keratinocytes with the extract brought about a significant increase in the mRNA expression of both OOG1 and MYH suggesting an increase in the DNA repair capacities (see Figure 2).

Figure 2. Increase in enzymes associated with DNA repair capacities of 8oxo-G lesions (***: p<0.001; *: p<0.05) (6)

The most important aspect of protection against photoaging is the preservation of the stemness potential of keratinocytes to ensure proper epidermal homeostasis. The last study observed the ability of keratinocyte stem cells to multiply and form new keratinocytes. In the graph below, holoclones refer to cells capable of extensive proliferation and meroclones are cells with limited proliferation capacity. You can think of holoclones as keratinocyte stem cells and meroclones as daughter cells.

When exposed to UVA, the holoclones change into meroclones and the number of colonies drastically decreases, showcasing that the stemness potential has been negatively impacted by UV exposure and the self-renewal capacity lost. In comparison, holoclones treated with the extract of sechium edule fruit and exposed to UVA present a significant increase in number of colonies and the stemness potential of keratinocytes preserved (see Figure 3).

 

Figure 3. The preservation of stemness potential in keratinocytes (6)

In conclusion, when the “stemness” potential of the keratinocytes is preserved it results in proper skin homeostasis and can lead to improved skin appearance (smoother skin, reduced wrinkles, more even skin tone, etc.). In addition to the use of broad-spectrum sunscreens (always recommended!), an active such as the one described above derived from the fruit of sechium edule is another tool in the arsenal of the formulating chemist in the ongoing fight against the effects of photoaging and UV-damage.

References:

  1. dermatology.ca
  2. yalemedicine.org
  3. uihc.org
  4. Metral, Elodie, et al., “Keratinocyte stem cells are more resistant to UVA radiation than their direct progeny.” PLOS ONE, 2018 Sept, vol. 13, n° 9, https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0203863
  5. Metral, Elodie, et al., “Long-term Genoprotection Effect of Sechium edule Fruit Extract Against UVA Irradiation in Keratinocytes.”, Photochemistry and Photobiology, 2018 Mar; 94(2): 343-350, https://doi.org/10.1111/php.12854
  6. Metral, Elodie, et al. “Long-Term Genoprotection Effect of Sechium Edule Fruit Extract against UVA Irradiation in Keratinocytes.” Photochemistry and Photobiology, 2018 Mar; 94(2): 343-350, https://doi.org/10.1111/php.12854

 

Authors:


Ben Blinder is the Executive Director, Business Operations at Gattefossé USA, with P/L responsibility for the personal care and pharmaceutical business units in the US and Mexico. He is also a founding member of the Advisory Committee on Diversity & Inclusion for Gattefossé in North America. Ben holds a BS in chemical engineering from Lehigh University.

 


Christina Philips is the Technical Marketing Leader at Gattefossé USA, responsible for providing information on trends and customer insights and technical marketing support for the sales team. She works closely with formulation chemists at the North American Technical Center to provide customers with informative lab sessions and conceptualize sensorial prototypes that highlight the company’s ingredients. She also volunteers as the Director of Empowerment for FOREFRONT Charity. Christina holds a BS in cellular and molecular biology from the University of Connecticut.

Silicone Alternative Solutions for Hair Care

by james.runkle@drummondst.com james.runkle@drummondst.com No Comments

 

Introduction

Silicones have been widely used in the cosmetic industry for decades. They are exceptionally versatile and impart multifaceted benefits across a wide range of beauty and personal care products. Not all silicones have been created equal, however, and some of these materials are now limited by regulatory restrictions on their use. Due to an increasing focus on their toxicological and environmental impact, consumers are now gravitating towards natural, safe, and sustainable alternatives. This article provides an overview on how silicones have shaped the hair care industry and the continuous research necessary to find innovative and environmentally friendly alternatives to silicones.

Influence of Silicones in the Hair Care Industry

Silicones have been important ingredients in hair care products since the 1950’s. Silicones or silicone derivatives are widely used in shampoos, conditioners, colorants, or styling products where they act as either emollients, humectants, film formers, antifoaming, anti-static, or binding agents [1]. These materials range from basic cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to polyether-and amino-based fluids and silicone resins [2]. All silicones have a natural origin (silica), but synthetic processes are used to create the plethora of silicone ingredients used in cosmetics [3].

Linear PDMS, also known as dimethicone, is available in a range of molecular weights and viscosities and is most used in hair care applications. They provide excellent conditioning and performance which increases with higher viscosity. Use of dimethicone reduces combing forces, provides great sensory benefits like gliding, and adds suppleness to hair.

Phenyl trimethicone is also based on linear PDMS with the addition of phenyl groups [4]. This combination results in a higher refractive index that effectively coats the hair enhancing its shine and leaving hair soft. PDMS polymers are also highly water resistant which makes them effective agents in reducing tackiness of the formulations.

Cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (cyclic PDMS) or cyclomethicones fluids are characterized by ring structures typically containing three to six groups per ring [2]. These fluids decrease combing forces by reducing friction and surface energy [4]. Due to their volatility and fast spreading properties, they provide transient gloss to hair, leaving hair weightless and without any build-up. Cyclomethicones are more compatible with a wider range of ingredients versus linear PDMS.

Silicone gum/fluid blends provide a high level of substantive conditioning and frizz control while imparting a soft and lubricious feel [4]. There are silicones that are modified, like amodimethicones (amine-functionalized silicones) or alkylmethicones (replacing methyl groups on PDMs with alkyl chains) which are widely used in hair care applications as well. Amodimethicones impart specific benefits like color protection, heat protection, repair, reduced flyways, and deep conditioning.

The above-mentioned silicones are non-water soluble, whereas silicone polyethers are a family of water and/or alcohol soluble materials commonly used in shampoo formulations. They provide light to medium conditioning. In addition to acting as emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers, they can be used as resin modifiers to aid curl retention [2].

Moving Away from Silicones

While silicones have been highly effective hair care ingredients providing both functional and enhanced sensorial benefits, there is a movement away from their use due to a variety of reasons. There are long-term effects of silicone such as causing build-up, greasiness, and scalp accumulation [5]. Furthermore, concerns have been raised about their toxicity and effects on the environment.

The Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) assessed the potential environmental effect of cyclic silicones: cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5). Based on the evaluation, D4 meets the criteria for identification as a persistent, bio accumulative and toxic (PBT), very persistent, very bioaccumulative (vPvB) substance and D5 meets the criteria for a vPvB substance [6]. After January 31st, 2020, the concentration of D4/D5 in rinse-off cosmetic products placed on the market should be less than 0.1% by weight of either substance. This has now been amended to include cyclohexasiloxane (D6) and is expected to be further restricted to include leave-on products [7].

Linear silicones are also not completely in the clear. They are suspected to be an environmental toxin and to be bioaccumulative. Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolymer, Polysilicone-15 and other silicones are commonly considered to be microplastics [8,9]. In addition to being non-biodegradable, silicone oils also have an impact on the environment due to their industrial production process which has a high carbon footprint [10].

High performance, Natural and Sustainable Solutions

According to Mintel’s GNPD, between 2016 and 2021 the incidence of “silicone-free” claims for hair care products increased by over 200%. With regulations to control the usage of silicones in hair care products and a growing emphasis on naturality and sustainability, companies are looking for ingredients that serve as silicone alternatives. There is a huge focus on developing efficient and innovative ingredients that offer similar or better functional performance and with a better sensorial profile than silicones. A few ingredient solutions currently offered are highlighted below:

C13-C15 Alkane (plant-derived) is a sustainable natural silicone replacement developed via the fermentation of renewable sugar and grown sustainably without irrigation. This ingredient meets the performance of dimethicone in frizz reduction and color protection. It also matches the performance of amodimethicone in terms of wet/dry combability and provides an excellent sensorial profile. Ethyl Macadamiate is another silicone alternative of macadamia esters. It is biodegradable and provides the same silky, smooth after feel as cyclopentasiloxane [8]. A highly viscous, hydrogenated polyfarnesene presents interesting properties to replace Dimethiconol-based blends [11].

A prime function of silicones is to act as emollients. A vegetable emollient that is readily biodegradable and reduces significant carbon footprint is a perfect ally to protect hair from repeated mechanical stress and perform superior to cyclopentasiloxane [10]. An example is Hydrogenated Olive Oil which is an unsaponifiable squalene from olive oil and hydrogenated castor oil. It is yet another emollient offering to replace silicone and mineral oils that has great application in anti-frizz haircare products [12].

Reduced Silicone Solutions

It is not necessary to exclude all silicone products; cyclic free or synthetic silicones that meet REACH requirements can still be used as alternative solutions. Using low viscosity dimethicone and a mixture of C13-C14 isoparaffin can be considered as a replacement for cyclomethicones delivering a similar sensory profile [7]. Use of terminal hydroxy amino-modified silicone (THA) chemistry provides long-lasting conditioning and protects hair against breakage [13]. As for synthetic offerings, combining quaternary conditioning properties of cetrimonium chloride with a carboxylated silicone provides thermal protection and enhances the manageability of hair, while a complex of cetrimonium chloride with a water-soluble silicone provides great hair care benefits in different formats [7]. A combination of natural oils and a synthetic polymer can enhance and extend the benefits of natural oils to smooth and restore damaged hair and protect and reduce hair damage from different grooming regimens [12].

The industry also offers some unique solutions like quat-free polymeric conditioning additives that can provide multi-functional benefits to hair which are ideal for amodimethicone free formulations. Lastly, to reduce the carbon footprint, manufacturers are cutting down the high use of energy to produce dimethicones of various viscosities by using methanol obtained from biomass instead of fossil fuels [7].

Using Digital Tools to Source Ingredients

In the quest for clean and sustainable ingredients, Artificial Intelligence (AI) is playing a critical role in research and development. Machine learning is a powerful tool that can collect large amounts of data and provide detailed information about ingredient sourcing [11].  AI will be further integrated to explore unmet needs and help screen and identify innovative ingredients for various applications. Companies are also developing apps, using QR codes to trace ingredients, and promote ingredient transparency by providing origin and sustainable properties [11].

Conclusion

Over the last decade, there has been a strong shift in consumer product preferences with emphasis on personal wellbeing and the environment. The cosmetic industry has made great progress in offering many eco-friendly, clean, and sustainable solutions not only to replace silicones but also other ingredients that are currently being challenged. Companies are tasked to continue their efforts in developing eco-friendly and sustainable products that are highly effective in functional and sensorial performance to meet consumer needs.

References

  1. Kostic A, “Silicones in cosmetics and their impact on the environment”, Cos ACTIVE J. 2021;1:34–39
  2. Katie Schaefer, “Silicones in Hair Care: Making Innovative Solutions Possible”, Cosmetics & Toiletries (November,2008)
  3. Megan McIntyre, “Do Silicones Deserve Their Bad Rap? “, Beauty Independent, June 2019
  4. Bethany Johnson, Kevin Murphy and Feifei Lin, “How Silicones Shape the Hair Care Industry: A Review”, Cosmetics & Toiletries (June,2015)
  5. Solvay.com, “How Sulfate and silicone Alternatives Improve the Hair care Industry and Benefit Consumers”
  6. Mojgan Moddaresi, “Regulation Update: Cyclosiloxanes in the EU”, UL Prospector (February ,2018)
  7. Smooth closer: The latest in silicones and silicone alternatives”, Cosmetics Business (November,2021)
  8. SuperZero.com, “What are silicones and why are silicones used in the beauty industry? (April,2021)
  9. Plastic-TheHiddenBeautyIngredients.pdf (beatthemicrobead.org)
  10. “An alternate to silicone for hair care”, Personal Care Magazine (March,2019)
  11. “New generation of emollient showing promising results as a sustainable alternative to viscous silicones in hair care formulations: Seppic”, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol.137, No.6 (June 2022)
  12. John Woodruff, “Silicones and Alternatives 2018”, published by SPC2018
  13. Nisaraporn Suthiwangcharoen, Bethany Prime, Beth Johnson, and Dawn Carsten, “Simple and Sensorial Amino-modified silicone protects and revives hair”, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol.136, No.2 (February 2021)

 

Mythili Nori has worked in the Personal Care industry for over a decade. Her expertise is in Product Claim Substantiation and Data Science. In her current role at BASF, she is responsible for Physical Claim Substantiation & Sensory testing for Hair & Skin Care. Prior to joining BASF, she spent 5 years at TRI/Princeton as a Senior Research Associate, supporting claim substantiation and fundamental research activities for textile and hair surfaces. She earned a Bachelor of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received Master of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture & Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water.