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The facts you need to know: new FDA proposed Sunscreen Regulation

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Sunscreen Innovation Act

The Sunscreen Innovation Act sponsored by Jack Reed was introduced to the Senate Committee Health, Education, Labor and Pensions on March 13, 2014.  It amends the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act to establish a process for the review and approval of over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen active ingredients.

FDA Proposes New Safety Testing for Selected Sun Filters

On February 26, 2019 the FDA published a proposed rule that would put into effect a final monograph for non-prescription OTC sunscreen drug products.  It establishes conditions under which certain OTC drugs may be marketed without approved new drug applications, indicating these products would be Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective (GRASE).  The sun care industry was hopeful that data previously submitted to the FDA would lead to the approval of additional sun filters currently used in Europe, under the FDA time and extent rule (TEA) policy.

Significance of the Proposed Safety Testing Protocol

To establish safety in use of sunscreen products, the FDA is proposing a Maximal Usage Trial study (MUsT). This is a human pharmacokinetic test that measures the amount of absorption of a drug into the body.  This study is new to the cosmetics industry and is more commonly used to study absorption of prescription drugs into the body.  The FDA believes this study will help to determine the potential effect of long-term use of an active ingredient.


Bio for Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Performance Materials Corporation, Philadelphia, PA., an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati department of dermatology and received his Ph.D. in Pharmacognasy from the Union Institute & University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time. He has been in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career formulating cosmetics for Estee Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals Howard previously served as editor of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the International Academy of Dermatology. He is on the editorial board of the dermatological journals Clinics in
Dermatology and SKINmed representing the cosmetics industry to dermatologists.

Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including various chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology, and holds eight patents and two patent applications.

Sunscreen Monograph Proposed New Rules and its Impact on Formulations-Part II

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In my recent blog published in August, changes to the current sunscreen tentative monograph were proposed.  These changes are probably the most drastic changes to the sunscreen monograph since its inception.  In this section, I would like to tackle two key areas related to the changes requested by the FDA.  The first one is the human pharmacokinetics Maximal Usage Trial (MUsT) for sunscreens conducted by the FDA and published in the Journal of the American Medical Association in May 2019.  The second is the response from the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) to the requests from the FDA for additional safety data.

The FDA conducted a MUsT trial on 4 sunscreen formulations.  The products consisted of 2 sprays, one lotion and one cream. A detailed description of the products used in the study and the sunscreens concentrations used is displayed in Table I below.

Table I

Concentrations of sunscreens in all treatments

Treatment Percent sunscreen contents per label
Avobenzone Oxybenzone Octocrylene Ecamsule
Spray 1 3.00 6.00 2.35 0.00
Spray 2 3.00 5.00 10.00 0.00
Lotion 3.00 4.00 6.00 0.00
Cream 2.00 0.00 10.00 2.00

Twenty-four subjects were enrolled in the study and were randomized into 4 groups.  Each treatment was studied on 6 individuals. All subjects finished the study except one.  Products were applied at a rate of 2 mg/cm2 on 75% of the body area.  Products were applied by a trained expert and were re-applied every 2 hours four times a day.  The study ran for 4 days and panelists were kept indoors.  Thirty blood samples were collected from each panelist over a period of 7 days and were analyzed for their concentration of sunscreens using a validated HPLC method.

Mean maximum plasma concentrations for all sunscreens were calculated for the four treatments and are displayed in Table II.

Table II

Geometric mean maximum plasma concentration for all treatments

Treatment Geometric Mean Maximum plasma concentration, ng/mL (%CV)
Avobenzone Oxybenzone Octocrylene Ecamsule
Spray 1 4.0 (60.9) 209.6 (66.8) 2.9 (102) Not applicable
Spray 2 3.4 (77.3) 194.9 (52.4) 7.8 (113.3) Not applicable
Lotion 4.3 (46.1) 169.3 (44.5) 5.7 (66.3) Not applicable
Cream 1.8 (32.1) Not applicable 5.7 (47.1) 1.5 (166.1)

As seen from the table, all sunscreens tested had higher blood levels than the FDA proposed threshold of 0.5 ng/mL.  These levels were also achieved on the first day of treatment.  The levels obtained triggered the FDA to request safety data not only on the sunscreens studied but also on the 12 sunscreens listed in the monograph.  In addition, the FDA requested MUsT studies to be conducted by the manufacturers on several dosage forms to establish proper guidelines for usage based on safety and efficacy.  Regardless of the results obtained, the FDA insisted on the fact that individuals should not refrain from using sunscreens.

In response to the request from the FDA, the PCPC sent a letter to describe the protocols and studies suggested by the council as well as a timeline.  The PCPC suggested to conduct, in addition to MUsT studies, several surveys on usage of sunscreen products to guide the council in designing the MUsT studies.  The timeline extends till 2023 which should give the industry some breathing room in terms of formulations.  Once the studies are received and completed, an additional timeline delineating the safety of the selected molecules will be proposed.  In the council’s response, two sunscreens were not considered for MUsT studies.  These are Cinoxate and Dioxybenzone.  The fate of these two sunscreens is not determined at this stage yet.

The sunscreen monograph has been evolving for the past 35 years to keep up with the advancement in science.  Formulators, and companies in the field of sun care will have to adjust one more time to the changes.  These changes bring a lot of new challenges and opportunities to innovate and lead.



Dr. Fares started his career in personal care studying the effect of solvents on sunscreen chemicals.  His interest in skin drug delivery especially from polymeric matrices grew during his graduate work at Rutgers, where he completed his Ph. D. in Pharmaceutics.

Dr. Fares worked at Block Drug and GlaxoSmithKline where he held positions in research and development in the areas of skincare and oral care.  After that, he joined L’Oreal where he held several positions of increasing responsibility leading to AVP of skincare.  He is currently the Senior Director of skincare and oral care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients.  Dr. Fares is the author of many publications, and patents and made many presentations in national and international meetings in the areas of suncare, skincare, and oral care.


Natural and Clean Cosmetics – The Science Behind the Ingredients

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In recent years we have seen in the cosmetic market an increase of simplified products with fewer ingredients.

The marketing message of these products is often linked to the ingredients sourcing, functionality, and safety (including the absence of the so called no-no ingredients). Labeled as clean beauty products, they often rely on natural ingredients that, due to the identification of natural with recognized by the human body, biodegradable, and often used in traditional medicine, they easily fit into the concept of safety (and carry a nice story on sourcing). But what about efficacy? Is it possible today to develop clean beauty products, carrying the purest and most ethical sourced natural ingredients, and prove their efficacy with Science? Technology and science is available today for both developing the natural extracts and for testing them, therefore increasing their safety and efficacy while maintaining their positive image of clean, pure, eco-friendly, safe and sustainably sourced. Technologies derived from the pharma and the imaging industries are available at affordable cost and flexibility. Genomics, proteomics and metabolomics analysis are now offered to the cosmetic scientist1 as well as machines able to qualify and quantify skin characteristics in a non-invasive way. In other words, it is finally possible to verify the scientific edge and efficacy of any natural and natural derived ingredient.

Raw materials – Minimal Processing

Raw materials sourcing from sustainable supply chain are often linked to:

– Biological agriculture

– Sustainable harvesting form the wild

These raw materials seem to emerge in the food supply chain first. Initial markets are in the country of origin on a micro-scale (local green markets), following a macro-scale and industrialization step (larger distribution in retail space). Often commercialized at a continent level, they are eventually “discovered” in other continents and growing according to their commercial and marketing appeal.

Example – Pomegranate Seed Oil

Pomegranate is sourced through a sustainable model and cold pressed oil is produced. Due to its unique and elevated level of omega-5 (conjugated linolenic acid, punicic acid) (Table 1),  the oil is a strong anti-oxidant, showing protection from UV-induced protein oxidation (carbonylation) and DNA damage.2

Table 1. Omegas Fatty Acids and Vitamin E Composition of Pomegranate Seed Oil

Further research highlighted the oil’s soothing properties such as inhibition of inflammatory mediator lipoxygenase;3 but also its regenerating characteristics, like the stimulation of keratinocytes growth.4

Raw Material – Extraction and Transformation in an Active Ingredient

Raw materials are often transformed into active ingredients for personal care applications. Specific extraction by using biodegradable and natural solvents produces ingredients with specific physical-chemical characteristics and solubility for different cosmetic applications. Once ingredients are validated based on stability assays and scaled up, they can be tested for safety and efficacy in different models (in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical – non animal).

Example – Fucoidan from Seaweed

Seaweeds are rich in phenols derivatives and polysaccharides with protecting activity.5,6 Brown seaweeds also contain a compound called fucoidan that assists with protection from marine pathogens.  Fucoidan is a fucose-rich polysaccharide with anti -viral, immune modulating and matrix metalloprotease inhibiting properties.7 By isolating fucoidan from seaweeds, the formulator can use smaller concentrations of the extract. These lower levels reduce the risk of incompatibilities and material setting, color issues and scent, improving overall stability.8 Recent research highlighted the scientific added value of fucoidan as skin soothing and skin regenerating agent (reduction of Trans Epidermal Water Loss, decreased wrinkle’s depth, increase elasticity, reduction of proteases) (Figure 1).9

Figure 1. Seaweed Extract rich in Fucoidan inhibits proteases and tyrosinase (from Fitton JH et al.9)


Natural and Clean Beauty Products contain natural ingredients communicated through ethical sourcing and safety. Scientific tools allow to analyze and test these ingredients for efficacy, therefore helping to select the right ingredient concentration to add to the finished product for optimal functionality. Natural and Clean Beauty Brands need to start validate their ingredients efficacy through real scientific testing and/or select their suppliers based on how scientific is their ingredient offer. Natural ingredients can step up for efficacy once good science is performed to validate their benefits for cosmetic applications. There is a clear need in the market for more science and more credible claims and we can provide them both helping consumers properly chose the cosmetics they need.


  1. Rai A, Saito K, Yamazaki M. Integrated omics analysis of specialized metabolism in medicinal plants. Plant J 90(4):764-787, 2017
  2. Afaq F, Zaid MA, Khan N, Dreher M, Mukhtar H. Protective effect of pomegranate-derived products on UVB-mediated damage in human reconstituted skin. Exp Dermatol 18(6):553-561, 2009
  3. Schubert SY, Lansky EP, Neeman I. Antioxidant and eicosanoid enzyme inhibition properties of pomegranate seed oil and fermented juice flavonoids. J Ethnopharmacol 66(1):11-17, 1999
  4. Aslam MN, Lansky EP, Varani J. Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells. J Ethnopharmacol 103(3):311-318, 2006
  5. Fernando IP, Kim M, Son KT, Jeong Y, Jeon YJ. Antioxidant activity of marine algal polyphenolic compounds: a mechanistic approach. J Med Food 19(7):615-628, 2016
  6. de Jesus Raposo MF, de Morais AM, de Morais RM. Marine polysaccharides from algae with potential biomedical applications. Mar Drugs 13(5):2967-3028, 2015
  7. Fitton JH, Stringer DN, Karpiniec SS. Therapies from fucoidan: an update. Mar Drugs 13(9):5920-5946, 2015
  8. Dell’Acqua G. Sustainable ingredient science: brown algae. Cosmet Toil 128(4): 226-229, 2013
  9. Fitton JH, Dell’Acqua G, Gardiner VA, Karpiniec SK, Stringer DN, Davis E. Topical benefits of two Fucoidan-rich extracts from marine macroalgae. Cosmetics 2(2): 66-81, 2015


Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD, is a cosmetic scientist and a consultant for the personal care industry. A graduate from the University of Rome, Italy, Dr Dell’Acqua worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research in different Research Institutes and Universities, including Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He is specialized in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development and technical marketing. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 70 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. From last 10 years he has been writing and lecturing on natural cosmetic ingredients, sustainable supply chain, and helped sourcing, developing and bringing to market many natural ingredients. He is an award winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular writer on sustainability and cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Committee for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists and its scientific blogger.




Black Hair Influencing Mainstream

by NYSCC NYSCC No Comments

The USA is predicted to have close to 50% of its population comprising people with skin of color by 2050 (Ref 1). Among this population black consumers are looking for new and innovative products for their hair care.

Black consumers beauty cabinet include a wide range of haircare products, none the less black consumers are still searching for new products that can help them maintain and style their hair.  According to Mintel reports, one out of every 5 (20%) Black consumers report having trouble finding Black haircare products that fit their diverse range of hairstyles, and 19 percent of Blacks have bought multiple haircare products because they can’t find the right product that works for them (Ref 2).

In the last decade the “Naturalista” movement persuaded many black consumers to start wearing a natural hair style, thus the decline of the relaxer and perm business. According to a Mintel US consumer report, about three quarters of black consumers say they currently wear or have worn their hair natural (Ref 2). New hair styles inspired by the “Naturalista” trend are showing up everywhere and are becoming extremely important to the image of the new black consumer.

As hair relaxer sales went south, sales of new products that support natural hair styles are booming.  That’s because maintaining natural unrelaxed hair is not easy.  Black hair comes in many different textures and seems like the hair has a mind of its own, this is especially true when the hair curl pattern is really kinky.

While multinational beauty companies like L’Oreal and Unilever acquired Black Brands such as Carol’s Daughter and Motions, other multinational companies are increasingly trying to tap into the ethnic haircare market using mainstream brands.  Brands like Pantene and Suave are developing line extensions that are either specifically formulated for Black hair or use ingredients/packaging with signals that resonate with Black consumers.

Black consumers need products that are designed and developed with their hair needs on mind.  Recently, black consumers complains on the commercial ad from Shea Moisture (a Black brand) made its way to social media for their new “Hair Hate” campaign. The ad featured a light skin woman with long wavy hair, a blonde white woman, and 2 red-head white women discussing why they’ve suffered from “hair hate” (Ref 3). Oddly enough, Shea Moisture’s long-time core consumer base, Black women with kinky hair, were missing from the conversation and video. This caused a backlash on social media followed by Black women boycotting the brand.

Black hair has unique texture and requires different formulas and ingredients that can address its unique un-met needs.  Most raw material suppliers who are focused on mainstream population have not yet understood these unique needs and as such are not able to play in this lucrative market.  The Black hair market is not just growing, it has also influenced mainstream trends.  It has been proven many times that most ethnic hair trends end up influencing mainstream market.  Trends such as cleansing conditioners and silicone free products took hold among Black and Ethnic consumers before spreading into mainstream market.

  1. Taylor SC. Skin of color: biology, structure, function, and implications for dermatologic disease. J Am Acad Dermatol 2002; 46:S41–62.
  2. Mintel 2015 Publication: NATURAL HAIR MOVEMENT DRIVES SALES OF STYLING PRODUCTS IN US BLACK HAIRCARE MARKET. http://www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-and-personal-care/natural-hair-movement-drives-sales-of-styling-products-in-us-black-haircare-market
  3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WWFxEnJovA

Guest Author: Mohamed Omer

Mohamed Omer is currently at Revlon as Manager of Multicultural Haircare. He was previously at L’Oreal as Associate Vice President for Strategic Foresight & Innovation. Mohamed received a Master’s degree in Physical Chemistry from Iowa State University and subsequently joined the New York City Police Department (NYPD) Crime Scene Laboratory, where he became an expert on narcotics and managed the intoxicated driver unit before he switched from forensic chemistry to cosmetic chemistry. For the last fifteen years, Omer has focused on product development, trends and Innovation and assumed various roles in companies such as Colgate Palmolive, Alberto Culver, Unilever, and L’Oreal, where he helped develop a range of products. Mohamed is an active member of the NYSCC where he serves in the Scientific Committee and was chair of the Open Innovation event.

When Industry and Academia Colloid – or rather, Collide

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Grab a jar of face cream off your dresser, and compare it with the milk in your fridge. Chances are you would notice the relative turbidity, or cloudiness, of both of these substances. Both the face cream and milk are just two examples of colloids. From the word “kolla”, meaning glue in Greek, the term “colloid” was first used in the 1860’s to distinguish this class of materials from crystalloids such as sugar and salt.1

Colloids exist in nature and in manmade materials. A host of other examples come to mind: clouds, fog, whipped cream, hydrogels, and –of particular interest to cosmetologists— shaving lather, aerosol sprays, hydrogels, creams, lotions, and foams.

A colloid consists of dispersed particles (between one nanometer and one micrometer), and a dispersion medium, either of which can be a gas, liquid, or solid in any combination.2 In recent years, there has been a renaissance of interest in the study of scientific phenomena at the nanometer scale.

At the Weck Lab3 in NYU’s Molecular Design Institute, the programmable, self-assembling behavior of colloids are studied. These smart designer colloids are fabricated with molecules on their surfaces, which enable them to self-organize into two or three-dimensional structures by controlling the combination or sequence of each colloidal cluster. Such principles draw heavily from Nature’s design, as seen in the DNA double-stranded helix, where complementary and self-recognition pair units exist in a directional, design-driven, and pre-programmed manner to control 3D structure.

With the ability to decorate nanoparticle surfaces, this methodology opens the door to a myriad number of applications, including those in personal care and cosmetics. Colloidal particle surfaces can be studded with anything ranging in size from short organic molecules like hydroxyacids, to polymer chains, and everything in between. In this fashion, colloidal particles can be programmed to yield unique surfaces, so that they behave similarly to enzymes in Nature with specific functions.

These colloidal functional handles enable the sequestering of active ingredients like humectants or anti-aging ingredients for skin care products for more effective performance, or control the organizational pattern in solution for product stability or performance enhancement. In the Weck group at NYU, colloids are functionalized with complementary pair DNAs, and supramolecular recognition units like the palladium-pincer/pyridine pair, directing particles to come together in solution like complementary puzzle pieces in a sequence-controlled manner. By programming colloidal surfaces and controlling their interfaces, scientists are able to control the way colloids organize and behave in their dispersed medium, changing the properties and function of these materials.

As the cosmetic world continues to respond to customer-driven interest in products with novel delivery systems and unusual product formula to contain active ingredients, the colloids symposium to be held next month in New York July 9th -12th, might be of special interest to those in the industry who desire a quick enquiry into the world of colloids, for potential uses in personal care products, biotechnology, and the like.

Thriving on strong international attendance by participants from academia, industry and national laboratories, concurrent exciting trends in colloidal and surface science research will be highlighted in the Symposium: two plenary lectures, 13 technical symposia, the Unilever Award Lecture, the Victor K. LaMer Award Lecture, a poster session, and an instrument exhibition. A social program is planned as well, including a Sunday evening dinner reception, a Monday evening poster session with refreshments, and a Tuesday evening Symposium Banquet.

All interested in the recent exciting developments in colloids and surface science are welcome! To register for the symposium http://colloids2017.org/register.html

  1. Jirgensons, B.; Staumanis, M. E. A Short Textbook of Colloid Chemistry, 1962, Second Edition, Pergamon Press Ltd., New York, USA.
  2. Hiemenz, P. C.; Rajagopalan, R. Principles of Colloid and Surface Chemistry, 1997, Third Edition, CRC Press, New York, USA.
  3. Weck Group Research. Weck Group, 2014. Web. June 9, 2017 Accessed. http://weckresearch.com/COLLOIDS

Guest Author: Diane Lye
Diane Lye is a researcher in the field of polymer chemistry. She has multiple years of experimental wet lab experience and in originating and developing ideas to fruition, with prior exposure to company strategy. A strong believer in using the carrot rather than the stick, she enjoys encouraging and mentoring juniors and peers, and was awarded a Dean’s Outstanding Teaching Fellow Award in the Sciences by New York University. She is completing her Ph.D. in the Weck Lab at NYU Molecular Design Institute, where her primary area of research is on supramolecular block copolymers. Diane enjoys learning about matters outside of her research scope, particularly in the quantification of the amorphous and intangible, on topics ranging from business psychology to the science of trust and love. In a previous life, she was a prize-winning classical pianist.

Brexit – Local Market and Globalization

by NYSCC NYSCC No Comments

On March 29, Theresa May, Britain prime minister, informed the European Union that the UK would trigger Article 50, i.e. the beginning of the negotiation with the European Union to withdraw UK from the Union (the so called Brexit). Article 50 is irrevocable but the way it is written make it unclear what would be the results of these negotiations. The good news is that during the 2 years negotiations period the UK and the EU will have time to figure out the best scenario to maintain a viable trading.

In 2016, 64% of UK cosmetics were exported to the EU, while 66% of EU cosmetics were imported to the UK. Cosmetics sales in the UK were estimated at 11.2 billion dollars in 2015 (retail sales), according to the CPTA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association in the UK). Analysts predict that UK sales will drop in a Brexit scenario. Raw materials, especially in the high-end segment, can be quite costly to import, and restrictions to trade, coupled with a weak currency, could see costs of development go up. The risk for ingredient suppliers is that the cost for the high-yield innovation that they need to bring to be unique and competitive would only be absorbed by the resilient super premium segment, usually not too influenced by price fluctuations given the high margins.The Mastige and the Mass market would instead be hit by a higher product cost resulting in consumers trade down unless finished products companies would absorb the cost or they would trade for cheaper raw materials with less quality.

It is clear that market localization is difficult. During the last 30 years globalization of trading goods has been the norm and the consumers have adapted to it. Tariff restrictions and higher taxes to import is a way to protect local economies and their produces. It is somehow enforced in some markets, especially in Asia and it would be interesting to see how the BRIC bloc will move in future years and whether trade agreements will stay in place or they will be renegotiated. A recent example is the Trans-Pacific Partnership agreement. This agreement is unique for our industry because it includes a special cosmetics annex that provides a framework for international regulatory best practices that would raise standards and allow our industry to continue to provide safe, innovative products in a timely fashion to consumers around the world. The TPP agreement has been successful in our industry due to cosmetic annex making easier for the TPP partners to import good (the partners being the USA, Canada, Mexico, Peru, Chile, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei, Vietnam and Japan). Benefits had included addressing divergent labelling requirements, eliminating requirements for certificates of free sale and eliminating dual registration for products that only differ by shade or fragrance. However this agreement has been questioned by the current US administration that would instead favor bilateral trade instead of a global agreement allowing the US to negotiate better terms for itself and favoring local protectionism if needed.

While Localization would allow bringing value to resources often neglected or obscured by the global offer, it is hard to imagine how we can give up the access to worldwide goods. Global trading should continue while local offer would complement when quality based and competitive. I don’t think that protectionism will benefit our industry that has always favored an open approach to technologies and innovation no matter where they come from, to different cultures and stories, and to raw materials sourced worldwide. The cosmetic industry and their customers benefit from open trade and closing borders would be a mistake.


Guest Author: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD, has been an investigator in applied biomedical research for 15 years and he has spent the last 16 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He is specialized in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development and technical marketing. He has covered multiple roles as a manager and director in different companies specialized in active ingredients and product development. He has helped bring more than 100 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 50 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. In the last 10 years he has been writing and lecturing on sustainability and cosmetic ingredients and helped sourcing, developing and bringing to market many sustainable ingredients. He is a recent award winning speaker on sustainability and natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainable cosmetic science.

Alban Muller awarded at “the Future of Sustainability” event!

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Alban Muller has taken key initiatives for contributing towards building the sustainable and circular economy. These contributions played a major role in achieving the “Most Sustainable Company” award at the Future of Sustainability event organized by New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

Alban Muller Prioritizes Sustainable Economy Development


Alban Muller attended the the 5th International Congress of Cosmetopoeia and 1st International Meeting of the Cosmetopoeia of the Pacific which was held in Polynesia in November 2016. This Congress gathered academic researchers and industrialists from the perfume and cosmetics sector on the worldwide Cosmetopée’s advances subject.

Jean-Marc Seigneuret, Ingredients Technical Director for Alban Muller Company and Olivier Touboul, Director of the South Pacific Cosmetology Laboratory, shared their project on eco-valorization of Tahitian grapefruit.

Eco-responsible Approach
This approach, which is part of a process of encouraging the circular economy, proposes to preserve the pulp and pericarp of grapefruit juice, considered as industrial waste, in order to reuse it in grapefruit extracts for cosmetic purposes, thanks to eco-responsible extraction and drying techniques.

The Circular Eco-Extraction Congress: co-valorize the molecules derived from flax-seed by installing a bio refinery.
On January 26th, Alban Muller Company also participated in the Circular Eco-Extraction Congress, valorization of the cosmetics vegetal sector, organized in Limoges. Speaking in the session “Local Sourcing Opportunities”, Jean-Marc Seigneuret, Ingredients Technical Director for Alban Muller Company, discussed the topic of “Cosmetic ingredients from the flax-seed bio refinery”.This collaborative project, supported by the Cosmetic Valley, was created by the company for applications in several complementary industries (agro-food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics). This original and innovative example enables Alban Muller Company to go even further in its Societal and Environmental Responsibility approach and in its expertise: develop economically viable and eco-responsible industrial processes and obtain molecules with an interest in cosmetics.

About Alban Muller
Alban Muller, l’expert du Naturel is world-renowned in the Beauty & Health Industries since 1978. Alban Muller manufactures 100% natural, innovative and globally compliant actives as well as finished products, ready to be filled and distributed. Alban Muller has developed an exclusive and eco-responsible manufacturing process named Zeodration. Alban Muller is also recipient of numerous awards such as the Ecovadis Gold Certification for its ecological commitment as well as the Prestigious Living Heritage Label (EPV) delivered by the French Government in recognition of its unique know-how.

Colloids and Surface Science in Medicine & Personal Care Products – A BIG Success!

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The NYSCC sponsored the Session: “Colloids and Surface Science in Medicine & Personal Care Products” at the American Chemical Society – Colloid & Surface Science Symposium held at The City College of New York July 9th – July 12th. The Session was moderated by Elizabeth Kaufman of the NYSCC. The Session was a success and it received full attendance every day for 3 consecutive days.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2017 Moves To New York City

by NYSCC NYSCC No Comments

The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) will hold its 38th Annual Suppliers’ Day on May 2-3, 2017 in a new location: the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. All under one roof and occupying a contiguous space, the 2017 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will provide the thousands of cosmetic and personal care manufacturers based in the tri-state area, and growing national and international contingencies, an accessible, convenient and efficient trade show and conference venue.

Suppliers’ Day is NYSCC’s flagship event and attracts nearly 8,000 attendees working in R&D and product development for the biggest brand manufacturers in beauty and personal care as well as emerging independents. Exhibitors, more than 400 in 2016, include the leading ingredient and raw materials suppliers as well as testing and quality control labs, machinery, packaging companies and professional service providers.

“After many discussions and outreach to our members and attendees, it was evident that Suppliers’ Day had outgrown its previous facility. A venue closer to the hub of our industries’ product development and marketing, as well as one more accessible for all participants was most requested as an improvement to the event,“ said Rey Ordiales, chair of the NYSCC executive board. “The Javits Center space presents us with the opportunity to make the show more conducive for learning, sourcing and networking, which are all key objectives of our attendees. All this in a prime location with the added benefit of being the most cost-effective option available to our supplier members.”  In addition to two days of exhibits, NYSCC will offer an expanded educational program. New features, added exhibitor value, and show experience enhancements to NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2017 will be announced in the coming months.

“Education and innovation is what drives this industry. There is no better place to be than New York City to message our mission while accessing some of the best minds, products and resources in cosmetic science and product development,” said Marie Thadal, chair-elect of the NYSCC executive board. “We anticipate a successful 2017 Suppliers’ Day in this new, expanded venue—this success certainly helps our association amplify our member initiatives and advance best practices in consumer education, sourcing, sustainability and more.”

Courtesy of www.happi.com and www.nyscc.org